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Unread 04-21-2012, 05:44 AM   #3016
keithert
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I installed my oil cup modded OPDA last night. First I added oil to the cup and spun the shaft while pointing the oil cup up. The oil level in the cup when down. I refilled and repeated. When I refilled again it no longer when down. I assume I load loading up the reservoir with oil by doing that. I then put some oil on the new gear and re-installed the OPDA. The engine started with about 1 second longer cracking than usual. I then tried to start it with shorter than usual cranking and it wouldn't start even after allowing longer cranking. After a minute it started with a second longer cranking. Then I took it for a drive. The next 4 times it started normally. Today or Monday I'll get it to the shop where I can use a scanner to set the correct rotation of the unit. My question is with the OPDA installed the oil cup unit sits level or slightly down angled. Will the ambient pressure from the oil cup being full be enough to draw the oil into the bushings new hole?

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Unread 04-21-2012, 07:24 AM   #3017
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No worries Keithert, the oil will slowly seep out the top of the bushing. Also you will see the level drop ever so slowly in the oil cup.
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Unread 04-21-2012, 02:27 PM   #3018
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You can easily verify that by removing the cap & having a look. If it's not already seeping out, with it running slowly add to the cup & watch. As soon as it starts out the top stop adding. Any additional oil added will just end up over the top & out. If it's already coming over don't add. If it goes down some in the future, let it & don't add except occasionally to refresh or it will just keep going out the top.

Unless you have a DRB scanner I don't think you can "zero out" the CMP timing. The best you can do is put it on TDC & line up the indexing holes. If you aren't getting a CEL I don't think you are off enough to cause a starting issue. Most claim the PCM compensates for small errors & throws a code for errors too big to compensate for.
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Unread 04-21-2012, 03:49 PM   #3019
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I have access to a Sun Solus scanner. It can read cam/crank sync. I checked it this afternoon. It was at -5 degrees. After adjusting the housing it is now at 1 degrees. As I understand it anything under +-10 is okay. I did manage to turn it too far at one point and trip the check engine light. It wouldn't go off until I reset it with the ignition on and engine off.

I didn't realize oil would come out the top. I'll have to check that. I plan to drive the Jeep a couple days and then remove the OPDA to check it out and reinstall.
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Unread 04-21-2012, 04:01 PM   #3020
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Originally Posted by keithert View Post
I have access to a Sun Solus scanner. It can read cam/crank sync. I checked it this afternoon. It was at -5 degrees. After adjusting the housing it is now at 1 degrees. As I understand it anything under +-10 is okay. I did manage to turn it too far at one point and trip the check engine light. It wouldn't go off until I reset it with the ignition on and engine off.

I didn't realize oil would come out the top. I'll have to check that. I plan to drive the Jeep a couple days and then remove the OPDA to check it out and reinstall.
It isn't a lot of oil, just don't keep filling the oil cup. Let it level out and it will be fine. Check it every oil change, beyond that forget about it.
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Unread 04-21-2012, 04:59 PM   #3021
keithert
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I'm surprised the oil migrates up the bearing. I would think it would go down into the shaft area.
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Unread 04-21-2012, 05:12 PM   #3022
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Didn't you hear, there is an anti-gravity field surrounding the OPDA? Actually on the pre-'05 units there was a seal at the very top instead of the middle like ours & oil was supposed to get to the top from the cam gear & apparently it did since failures although not unhead of are rare & they are older than ours as well.
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Unread 04-21-2012, 07:37 PM   #3023
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Where is the seal on ours?
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Unread 04-21-2012, 07:48 PM   #3024
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Between the top & bottom bushings. No lube coming up from the cam gear! But that seal is what makes the oil cup feasible. If the oil just ran down the shaft you wouldn't be able to keep oil in the cup (& it might not reach the top of the top bushing). Having a good seal there was my only real concern when I built mine. Now that I've seen cutaway views of the seal I see that it is a good automotive style seal & I doubt any oil gets past it.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 10:22 AM   #3025
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I also thing this may make the original FogMod with grease moot. The only difference is the Aeroshell grease has a lower cold parameter so that hopefully it is still relative fluid at low temperatures.
Ok, so Willy, confirming the FogMod is a waste of time other than the Shell grease being a little better? I bought all the parts needed to do the mod (including a new OPDA from Jeep) and was going to do it today.

I think I am going to just install the new OPDA and visually check it/re-oil the shaft every 10-15k miles without any mods. What do you guys recommend? Thanks
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Unread 04-22-2012, 11:09 AM   #3026
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Ok, so Willy, confirming the FogMod is a waste of time other than the Shell grease being a little better? I bought all the parts needed to do the mod (including a new OPDA from Jeep) and was going to do it today.

I think I am going to just install the new OPDA and visually check it/re-oil the shaft every 10-15k miles without any mods. What do you guys recommend? Thanks
The only difference between the FogMod grease and oil, is the oil cup parts. I don't think pulling the shaft every 10-15K is a good idea. You would be required to remove the gear each time, and I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I would recommend doing the FogMod as you had planned, but take the extra step of the oil cup. This way you know the oil is seeping into the upper shaft all the time. You avoid messing with the roll pin more than necessary.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 12:17 PM   #3027
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The only difference between the FogMod grease and oil, is the oil cup parts. I don't think pulling the shaft every 10-15K is a good idea. You would be required to remove the gear each time, and I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I would recommend doing the FogMod as you had planned, but take the extra step of the oil cup. This way you know the oil is seeping into the upper shaft all the time. You avoid messing with the roll pin more than necessary.
I agree but another option would be to take out the grease plug, clean out all the factory grease, install a grub screw and put oil in the grease reservoir. You could periodically pull the OPDA, remove screw and just re-oil it. After seeing Willy's vids of the porous bushing, I think this should work fine and you probably already have the parts to do it this way.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 07:38 PM   #3028
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Finally got my oil changed and pulled the OPDA today. Very pleased with how the new Crown gear is wearing and the shaft turns smooth as butter. I haven't added any oil to the cup in probably 4,000 miles so I went ahead and replenished it. I didn't pull the shaft and inspect it but don't see any need for that as smooth as it's turning.

I took several pics of the gear but they didn't turn out very good. I do have this one I'll show you, although you can't really see the wear pattern very well.
opda-pull-005.jpg
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Unread 04-23-2012, 06:57 AM   #3029
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Lope, do you have just 4000 miles on this OPDA?
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Unread 04-23-2012, 03:53 PM   #3030
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Lope, do you have just 4000 miles on this OPDA?
Actually, this is the original OPDA that had about 50K on it when I first got the laughing monkey. Long story short, I've probably put 7-8K on it since re-modding it with oil cup and Crown gear.
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