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Unread 04-13-2012, 08:53 AM   #2986
Daniellh
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Hey guys, I bought my 06 Rubicon last year and absolutely love it. My dad has an 89 Wrangler, guess Jeep runs in the family, and I've never felt so comfortable in a vehicle before.

Anyways, like others I came across this thread and immediately flipped out lol, settled down, researched and then decided to replace my OPDA at around 80k miles. Did this with assistance from my dad, wasn't that difficult! Everything seems ok for now...

My question is, I bought this jeep with an extended warranty ( the kind I had to pay $2,000+ for ) just for peace of mind. Of course these warranties require you to have all required maintenance done by the dealer.

Since modding the OPDA will likely void this warranty and the dealer of course uses conventional oil, what is the best way I can preserve the OPDA? I've been adding bottles of this ZddpPlus stuff I purchase from amazon. Think this will suffice?

It's silly but this extended warranty is actually preventing me from doing synthetic oil changes myself and modding my OPDA lol. But I KNOW that if anything went wrong ( OPDA flying through the hood ) the first thing the dealership would say is "uh that oil cup on the OPDA is not stock, warranty voided "

I know I know, extended warranties are a sham but it already helped big time replacing the gas tank and fixing the overflow issue

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Unread 04-13-2012, 09:08 AM   #2987
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniellh View Post
Hey guys, I bought my 06 Rubicon last year and absolutely love it. My dad has an 89 Wrangler, guess Jeep runs in the family, and I've never felt so comfortable in a vehicle before.

Anyways, like others I came across this thread and immediately flipped out lol, settled down, researched and then decided to replace my OPDA at around 80k miles. Did this with assistance from my dad, wasn't that difficult! Everything seems ok for now...

My question is, I bought this jeep with an extended warranty ( the kind I had to pay $2,000+ for ) just for peace of mind. Of course these warranties require you to have all required maintenance done by the dealer.

Since modding the OPDA will likely void this warranty and the dealer of course uses conventional oil, what is the best way I can preserve the OPDA? I've been adding bottles of this ZddpPlus stuff I purchase from amazon. Think this will suffice?

It's silly but this extended warranty is actually preventing me from doing synthetic oil changes myself and modding my OPDA lol. But I KNOW that if anything went wrong ( OPDA flying through the hood ) the first thing the dealership would say is "uh that oil cup on the OPDA is not stock, warranty voided "

I know I know, extended warranties are a sham but it already helped big time replacing the gas tank and fixing the overflow issue
Will the ZDDPlus void it?
Will replacing the OPDA without using the dealer void it?

The alternative I can think of it removing the OPDA, driving out the roll pin, removing the shaft, and manually lubing the bushings. A lot of work, but there is no sure way. A precision oiler may be able to reach through the target wheel and in between the bushing and washer. It may seep into the upper bushing.

Another alternative is to mod the new one and run it until you have to go to the dealer. Then swap it with the old one. In the meantime disassemble the old one, clean and lube it so it won't do any harm when swapped.

I understand not wanted to void the warranty, but I don't think running an OPDA knowing the potential for failure and gear deterioration is advisable either. The videos and info in this thread make swapping an OPDA easy enough to do by the Average Joe.
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Unread 04-13-2012, 09:26 AM   #2988
BioTex
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Put the old OPDA back in, drive to the dealer and tell them to have a look at it since it is "noisy" and you heard about problems with them. They will/should replace it with a new one. Now you have your new one you can mod, and then have a spare new one to swap in when you need a trip to the dealers...
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Unread 04-13-2012, 10:11 AM   #2989
rubicon17
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who is your warranty through? i have one with ford and only have to keep records and receipts.
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Unread 04-13-2012, 11:13 AM   #2990
SolarOne
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To be forwarned I'm about to ramble...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CoveBikr View Post
Any place selling modded or improved opda over the oem part? Also, what oil is everyone running in their inline 6's? Doing the first change this weekend since I bought it. Filter preferences too?
I'm running Redine 10w40 I have since purchasing mostly for the additives in it, and that ester based oils clean engines very well (when buying used I prefer to clean out earlier rather than later). First OCI I ran with a Bosch Distance+ 3500 (large/HP/Police filter) That OCI ran for about 3.5k the Redline cleaned it out well. I'm running Redline 10w40 again atm I have 3.5k on the oil and the engine is running great, and the oil appears cleaner than before. I think I'll go to 4k on this OCI, atm I have Purolator PL30001 on it. I'm not sure how far I'm willing to take this filter. I'll make one more run of Redline probably pushing it another 500 miles to 4.5k, then probably move on to using a gallon of Rotella T6 topped off with Pennzoil Platinum and start about 4k.

I wont bother trying the new Purolator Synthetic PSL30001 its rated at 25 micron. The PureONE PL30001 is rated at 20 and Wix 51515 is rated at 21 micron, Bosch doesn't disclose what micron level was used to achieve 99.9%. My preference toward the Purolator is the silicon anti-drain back valve and gasket. For the most part even those filters won't extend engine life, it just better prevent large particals from passing and causing catastrophic damage. The particles doing most the wear are less than 10 microns 5-7 causing most the wear, iirc.

I haven't gotten into installing a bypass filter and don't know if I will/would. I'm considering a dual pass full flow filtering on a remote filter block with better filtration. The idea behind this would be to further extend the OCIs I'd like to comfortably hit 6k so I am only changing the oil twice a year. ATM my basic pan is a dual pass HP6 filter block (Hamburger's Performance Products 3311) and using commercial HDEO filters. In this case WIX 57239 for a pre filter with an anti-drain back valve and a WIX 51810XE as a high efficiency filter (5 micron). Even with the costs involved this is much cheaper than an off the shelf bypass filter (filters cost ~$40 for the set), doesn't really take up any additional space vs a bypass, and there is no need to tap a drain back in the pan or valve cover. But its less efficient than one too, Amsoil rates their bypass kits @ 2 micron and others as low as 0.5 micron.
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Last edited by SolarOne; 04-13-2012 at 11:18 AM.. Reason: left out a few minor details/better wording on my ramble
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Unread 04-13-2012, 11:30 AM   #2991
Bigbob
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I did a flow through deal on my old OPDA but it is already seeping a tad of oil as I need to improve the sealing method. First off I need to find a proper seal. The stock shaft is .5315 diameter and I am using a .500 seal. But getting the seal dead center on a adapter is also tough.

I have a new unit and decided to go with a oil bath lubrication system. It doesn't get more oil to the bottom bushing or gear, but it will save the top bushing.

I still want to build a flow though unit, but for now this one will do just fine.

http://youtu.be/igaic08Xzm8
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Unread 04-13-2012, 04:08 PM   #2992
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
I did a flow through deal on my old OPDA but it is already seeping a tad of oil as I need to improve the sealing method. First off I need to find a proper seal. The stock shaft is .5315 diameter and I am using a .500 seal. But getting the seal dead center on a adapter is also tough.

I have a new unit and decided to go with a oil bath lubrication system. It doesn't get more oil to the bottom bushing or gear, but it will save the top bushing.

I still want to build a flow though unit, but for now this one will do just fine.

http://youtu.be/igaic08Xzm8
Good job Bob. You're an ace with the camera.

I think this is a good alternative to the oil cup if you can find parts. Comparing it to the machining (drilling/tapping) I think there is a little more overall work. I don't know that there is any benefit over the oil cup, more of an alternative. The oil cup doesn't reuse the oil, but it does seep so there is a little maintenance there with clean up. I think both are great ways to protect the upper shaft/bushing area.

Do you plan to drain, refill the oil at any point? I doubt you would ever need to, just curious.

Also, I'll add the video to the alternate designs section! You're going to be the next Bieber!
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Unread 04-13-2012, 04:13 PM   #2993
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Good job Bob. You're an ace with the camera.

I think this is a good alternative to the oil cup if you can find parts. Comparing it to the machining (drilling/tapping) I think there is a little more overall work. I don't know that there is any benefit over the oil cup, more of an alternative. The oil cup doesn't reuse the oil, but it does seep so there is a little maintenance there with clean up. I think both are great ways to protect the upper shaft/bushing area.

Do you plan to drain, refill the oil at any point? I doubt you would ever need to, just curious.

Also, I'll add the video to the alternate designs section! You're going to be the next Bieber!
Who is Bieber? (I'm old)

I will check the level of the oil every hundred miles for a while and if it remains in there that means it ain't leakig past the seal. I'll check it every oil change after that. I guess if it looks dirty I'd drain it, otherwise it can stay in there a long time.
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Unread 04-13-2012, 04:22 PM   #2994
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Who is Bieber? (I'm old)

I will check the level of the oil every hundred miles for a while and if it remains in there that means it ain't leakig past the seal. I'll check it every oil change after that. I guess if it looks dirty I'd drain it, otherwise it can stay in there a long time.
If you don't know Bieber, it's probably better that way!

I agree. I doubt you'll have to mess with it. I can't imagine it will circulate that fast and it looks sealed pretty well.
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Unread 04-13-2012, 07:08 PM   #2995
stripperguy
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Mr. bob and Mr. digger,
Can you tell me what holds that target wheel onto the main shaft? Is it just an interference fit? Is the target wheel aluminum? Here's why I ask:
If some of the problems finding a suitable seal and/or alternate upper bearing are related to the oddball sized .531 shaft, then maybe the shaft could be swapped out for a more common size WRT bearings and seals.
Potentially, the lower bushing could be bumped up in size (ID) and the target wheel could also be opened up to fit a larger shaft. It seems there is sufficient axial space to get rid of the OEM bushing and seal, and fit a lip seal above a quality upper bearing. Mr. bob's flow through oiling could then work much the same as any modern oiled system.
Oh, and I suppose the drive gear bore would also need to be opened up to match a larger shaft. Or alternately, the main shaft could be stepped, keeping the drive gear bore the same, but that makes the shaft more expensive...
I'm going to have some actual free time in a couple of weeks and I can spend some time in the lab and in the shop to see these things first hand.

Does anyone have a scrap, or damaged OPDA they would like to donate? I'll pay the shipping, PM me.
And just so you know I'm not just a benchtop engineer, I cofounded and own a chunk of Mohawk Innovative Technology, Inc.

And thank you all for exposing this problem...

Mike T.
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Unread 04-13-2012, 07:31 PM   #2996
Rubi4MyMrs
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The wheel is pressed onto the shaft. Moving (tapping) the wheel up or down is how the endplay is adjusted. I believe Lope has removed a wheel & transplanted it to an earlier shaft with the spiral groove on one of his projects.
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Unread 04-16-2012, 11:29 PM   #2997
auburnhunter
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I have been absorbing the OPDA problem for some time, and I keep hoping that Crown or someone else will eventually come out with something. I talked to a friend of mine today that runs a large company that machines any part they are contracted for. I asked him if it was possible to machine an entirely new housing with modified bearings and just use the guts from the original unit. He said anything is possible with their equipment, so I'm thinking of buying a new one and giving him my old one do dissect. Has anyone else looked into this?

Yesterday I sold my old Yota and found a really nice 5.2L Dakota 4x4. I'll keep it as my work truck until the LJ goes tits up and just drop in the V8 when the time comes. I look at the Dakota and the LJ like the Saudi prince that has the heart donor travel with him at all times
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Unread 04-17-2012, 12:31 AM   #2998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Who is Bieber? (I'm old)

I will check the level of the oil every hundred miles for a while and if it remains in there that means it ain't leakig past the seal. I'll check it every oil change after that. I guess if it looks dirty I'd drain it, otherwise it can stay in there a long time.
He's a kid that made it big singing on You Tube, do you sing BigBob?
I used your flow through method and have the same problem with leakage, as a temporary fix im running a small drain hose from the OPDA to the dipstick tube. It seem to be working well even though it is Half A$$ed way of dealing with the excess oil. Hell the whole OPDA is Half A$$ed for that matter.

P.S. I installed a 1/4" compression valve inline to regulate the volume, and can adjust the flow.
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Unread 04-17-2012, 10:30 AM   #2999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRod View Post
He's a kid that made it big singing on You Tube, do you sing BigBob?
I used your flow through method and have the same problem with leakage, as a temporary fix im running a small drain hose from the OPDA to the dipstick tube. It seem to be working well even though it is Half A$$ed way of dealing with the excess oil. Hell the whole OPDA is Half A$$ed for that matter.

P.S. I installed a 1/4" compression valve inline to regulate the volume, and can adjust the flow.
Cool. What size/type of seal did you use?

I am pretty sure I have sourced a seal of the proper size. I used a 1/2" ID 3/4" OD seal on mine, but the shaft is .5315 (or so) or 13.5 MM. My next one will have a .5310 ID X 1.0" OD seal in it.

I have 2 units. The old unit I am using as a test mule for the flow though, the new unit is a oil bath deal.
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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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Unread 04-17-2012, 11:19 AM   #3000
LRod
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I don't have a seal on it yet, just regulating the flow with the valve. Where did you pick up the seal you used?
Could a machine shop cut an "O" ring groove in the upper end of the shaft and get a good seal? I only have the one OPDA other wise I'd try the "O" ring repair.
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