2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 199 - JeepForum.com

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post #2971 of 5452 Old 04-11-2012, 08:17 PM
Brainwashed2566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Here is the video.

http://youtu.be/McrtZ6ptSWY
Awesome, thank you. I did the sharpie method first time, this looks much easier now that I have a chance to see it.




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post #2972 of 5452 Old 04-11-2012, 08:19 PM
czechsky
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So you can remove pin/screwdriver (Bob's opda alignment method) to remove the unit and I see on Willy's vid that the wheel will rotate as it evolves through the helical gear to a final point. Question is, when installiing the new opda, I understand the pin stays in until set in postition? So without the free rotation of the wheel, would I be just manually guiding it through the turn?
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post #2973 of 5452 Old 04-11-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I'd buy one!

Nice!
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post #2974 of 5452 Old 04-11-2012, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czechsky View Post
So you can remove pin/screwdriver (Bob's opda alignment method) to remove the unit and I see on Willy's vid that the wheel will rotate as it evolves through the helical gear to a final point. Question is, when installiing the new opda, I understand the pin stays in until set in postition? So without the free rotation of the wheel, would I be just manually guiding it through the turn?
Actually you don't need the pin in to install. Just get it close. Once the unit is in you rotate the housing till the holes line up. You may have to lift it and turn it a bit (including the oil pump slot) so the "clocking" on the housing is where you want.

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post #2975 of 5452 Old 04-11-2012, 11:30 PM
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Here is a shot of how much rotation you need to get it out or where to start when installing from TDC & the alignment pin in place. Note the allen wrench used as the pin. Then let it rotate to the 4 o'clock position as it goes into place.
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post #2976 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 08:19 AM
czechsky
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The hold down bracket...
I thought maybe this thing was not seated properly when I re-installed as I did not pay much attention to the configuration down there when I took it off. I guess this is how it sits, when the holes are aligned for the bolt, that bent end just pretty much contacts/rests on the ledge of the block?
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post #2977 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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^That's the correct placement.
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post #2978 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 11:40 AM
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Rollin' once again! Thanks to all.

O.K. New OPDA modified by the legendary WillyDigger himself and the additional assistance of BigBob and Ruby4MyMrs and all the other helpful Jeepers and this thing is good to go! Changed the oil over to VR1 conventional 10w 30. I don't know if it was the Royal Purple (I have only had this long enough for one oil change and did not know what garbage it was until I started researching) or neglect from the orig. owner, but what I saw was a pretty well blackened cam and opda gear.
Lotsa wear on the opda gear but the cam looked solid in there.
-I need to figure out how to shrink photos- sorry bout that...
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post #2979 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 11:49 AM
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OK, seeing this for the first time and have spent the last 3 hours reading through it and the most recent vids were very helpful. I bought my first wrangler about 2 months ago... 05 6cylinder. I think i am getting the beginning of the monkey laugh (66k miles). A bit freaked out. I think I can competently visually check it out tonight or this weekend, but not sure what to do if it is bad.

so i guess this is my general progression/questions
1. I hear a light monkey laugh
2. I visually inspect OPDA
3. If i see wear, I replace with new OPDA?

Does it need to be modded no matter what to prevent the wear?
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post #2980 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czechsky View Post
O.K. New OPDA modified by the legendary WillyDigger himself and the additional assistance of BigBob and Ruby4MyMrs and all the other helpful Jeepers and this thing is good to go! Changed the oil over to VR1 conventional 10w 30. I don't know if it was the Royal Purple (I have only had this long enough for one oil change and did not know what garbage it was until I started researching) or neglect from the orig. owner, but what I saw was a pretty well blackened cam and opda gear.
Lotsa wear on the opda gear but the cam looked solid in there.
-I need to figure out how to shrink photos- sorry bout that...
Cool, looks good. Started and runs fine I presume?

I honestly think if a guy is installing a new OPDA the oil cup method is the fix. On older OPDA's the seal may be leaking and the oil cup won't work well.
As long as the seal is good the oil cup will keep the bushing lubed very well.

I like my flow through design, but it does have flaws.
Getting a seal on top centered properly is impossible by putting on a seal adapter such as I built. A seal can only stand a couple thousands off center before it will fail. My original design already leaks a bit but it has a really small single lip seal that is .500 and it needs to be .5315 ID. I will still build my version 2.0 flow on my old OPDA once I find a proper seal, but I'm not doing it to my new OPDA. The new one will get the oil cup deal.

Now, I need to build a oil bottle holder for under the hood for a small squeeze bottle of oil.

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post #2981 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Resize the pics on your computer to 640x480. Also you can open a photobucket account and store/resize pics there.

CoveBikr,

Laughing Monkey is the indicator of some type of binding. The only current way to address binding is to mod the unit to provide lubrication to the dry upper bushing. The first page will have a lot of images and video to help understand what's going on. The FogMod is a way to provide grease or oil to the upper bushing. There are a number of ways to accomplish this and at this point we are in the early stages.

Here recently the consensus, and correct me if I'm wrong, is to drill a hole through the upper bushing so oil can get between the shaft and upper bushing. This isn't the only way or necessarily the best way, but as long as you are getting lubrication to the upper bushing you will help prevent binding. We don't have enough proof that this will help with gear wear, but I feel comfortable with the fix.

IMO you will need to mod a new unit. Just because you made it 50-60-100K miles before laughing monkey doesn't mean a new one will last that long.
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post #2982 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 01:09 PM
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To further clarify regarding CoveBikr's question(s): I think the Monkey is a distinct sound and even in its faintest iterations should be easily identified once you've heard it in the videos linked on pg 1. Once it sets in, I believe that it's game over for the OPDA and it must be replaced IMMEDIATELY.

The degree of wear to the OPDA shaft gear is not always directly correlated to the amount of wear to the cam gear; some with worn a worn OPDA gear have had minimal cam wear, though I don't recall any reports and would be surprised to hear of any cases with minimal OPDA gear wear and excessive cam gear wear.

I am of the opinion (and it may be a minority opinion) that OPDA shaft gear wear does NOT necessitate OPDA replacement. It does, however mandate disassembly and inspection for evidence of shaft binding.

If there is no sign of binding, then I say mod and re-install. If binding is evidenced, then install a new modded unit. The reason for not replacing the OPDA simply because of gear wear (again, my personal opinion) is that a fresh OPDA gear against a worn cam gear (as opposed to a properly broken in and hardened cam gear surface) will accelerate cam deterioration.

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post #2983 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 05:50 PM
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Any place selling modded or improved opda over the oem part? Also, what oil is everyone running in their inline 6's? Doing the first change this weekend since I bought it. Filter preferences too?
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post #2984 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 05:57 PM
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From what I gathered in my situation, I am led to believe that the cam is far superior of the 2 btw gear and cam? Just took mine out and swapped it with a modded new unit this morning. No appearent wear on the cam but the opda gear teeth were literally worn half way down on the last half of each tooth. When I installed the new one after cranking to TDC (center on wiggle/play), much of that slack disappeared. And, it was throwing a code to replace the sensor prior to doing this (not the re: timing). I will just keep an eye on it with periodic removals. I at least got some peace of mind with the help from this thread; prior to that, I was ready to wash my hands of the Willys Edition altogether. Me getting the run around at the stealership would have gotten ugly.
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post #2985 of 5452 Old 04-12-2012, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoveBikr View Post
Any place selling modded or improved opda over the oem part? NO Also, what oil is everyone running in their inline 6's? Valvoline VR1 convetional, Mobil1 syntetic, and a few others Doing the first change this weekend since I bought it. Filter preferences too? K&N, Wix, Purolator, and several others, as well
See posts 1-12. If you cannot do the mod yourself or if you are simply not comfortable attempting it, WillyDigger (and perhaps others) can and will do it for you at a very reasonable cost. I would suggest again to review the earlier sections of this thread for more detailed answers to all these questions. It may seem daunting, but take a while to research it as you will be far better off in the future.

Gear-Calculator Stu Can Help You Part Names and Numbers Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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