2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 195 - JeepForum.com
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post #2911 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 05:49 PM
JeepinAaron
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ok so i've obviously figured out which way not to rotate it, tiny bit the wrong way and the Jeep won't start, so now back the other way. I did develop a new question.

Is the crank pulley at the bottom of the engine? I don't see any marks anywhere to line up TDC if I needed to do that.


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post #2912 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinAaron

Is the crank pulley at the bottom of the engine? I don't see any marks anywhere to line up TDC if I needed to do that.
crank pulley is the big one with serpentine belt in front. The timing mark can be very hard to find, especially with the belt on. You can see it in this pic, but it's been painted to make it easier to see (thanks, Rubi4mymrs). You will have an easier time finding it if you remove the belt.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #2913 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 06:40 PM
JeepinAaron
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Ok I got it lined back up so the check engine light went off. Now the ODPA is ticking bad, much worse than before. I don't see how taking it out and putting it back in changed it that much but oh well. I'm going to order a new one tomorrow.

There is lots of play in the target wheel when it is installed. Also I can slightly pull the target wheel up and down, is this normal?

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2003-wj-off-road-minivan-2346505/#post22320625
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post #2914 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 07:02 PM
Heath
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You can take some of the up and down slack out.

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post #2915 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heath
You can take some of the up and down slack out.
How do you propose to do that?

Gear-Calculator Stu Can Help You Part Names and Numbers Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #2916 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 07:25 PM
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post #2917 of 5420 Old 03-27-2012, 07:43 PM
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I can add that probably most of the rotational play you are getting is from the up & down movement. As the shaft goes up the gear rotates the shaft. If you hold the wheel down how much rotating play are you actually getting. That would come from the play within (between) the gears. A small amount would be normal but any wear on either gear would add to it. When the engine is running the shaft lifts up against the thrust washer & stays there as long as it is running so the up & down play shouldn’t be contributing to any excessive play from the shaft.
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post #2918 of 5420 Old 03-29-2012, 08:08 PM
Brian86992
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I had abnormal wear on the OPDA on my 2002 TJ's 4.0.

Because of the abnormality of the situation (being an earlier model) I created a separate thread which can be found here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/op...002-a-1350053/

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post #2919 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 05:41 PM
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I just picked up an '05 LJ insurance wreck with 42 k on the odometer, it runs flawlessly and is nice and quiet, no laughing monkeys.
Thought I got a great deal ($7,000-only needs an axle) and now I find this thread.

This scares the sh*t out of me!!
Has any looked into modifying the housing to accept a rolling element bearing?
Without taking it apart myself, could someone tell me the size of the shaft? If it's a common size, and there is room in the housing, maybe a sealed ball bearing could be a solution. (I'm a design engineer by trade))
I apologize in advance if this has already been considered, I only read every 10th page or so...
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post #2920 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stripperguy View Post
I just picked up an '05 LJ insurance wreck with 42 k on the odometer, it runs flawlessly and is nice and quiet, no laughing monkeys.
Thought I got a great deal ($7,000-only needs an axle) and now I find this thread.

This scares the sh*t out of me!!
Has any looked into modifying the housing to accept a rolling element bearing?
Without taking it apart myself, could someone tell me the size of the shaft? If it's a common size, and there is room in the housing, maybe a sealed ball bearing could be a solution. (I'm a design engineer by trade))
I apologize in advance if this has already been considered, I only read every 10th page or so...
I don't remember the exact size but IIRC the shaft is a little over 1/2"-definitely an odd size. I think that's what's kept anyone from trying a sealed bearing so far.
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post #2921 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 06:14 PM
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Thanks for the quick response Mr. lope.
The most common bearings are sized by their inner diameters, usually metric. So maybe a 12 or 13 mm bore?
Anyone else? Even if the shaft is an oddball size, a small sleeve could be shrunk over the shaft to adapt to a common bearing ID.
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post #2922 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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Here is where I was when I looked into bearing &/or bronze bushings. #842 this thread. Bushing sizes: I.D. 0.533in/13.55mm
O.D. 0.765in/19.46mm


I searched all over. No bearings but can get blank bushing material including Oilite & make some. Still need lubrication though.
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post #2923 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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I've got a new unused OPDA on my work bench torn apart for mods. Let me measure the shaft.
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post #2924 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stripperguy
I just picked up an '05 LJ insurance wreck with 42 k on the odometer, it runs flawlessly and is nice and quiet, no laughing monkeys.
Thought I got a great deal ($7,000-only needs an axle) and now I find this thread.

This scares the sh*t out of me!!
Meh, don't let it scare you, just be aware and ready. I think so far the best option is to FogMod or add the oil bath (preferred). Other ideas are welcome and I'll even donate an OPDA, of you comeuppance with something that needs trial.


BTW, I measured the shaft at .530 inches (just under 13.5mm). That's on an OPDA with under 2k mi.

Gear-Calculator Stu Can Help You Part Names and Numbers Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #2925 of 5420 Old 04-05-2012, 06:53 PM
stripperguy
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Be aware and be ready...yup, I'm planning on that!
I need to go back to the 1st page and study those cross sections some more. Even if there isn't room in the housing for a ball bearing, the housing can be modified. or just plain replaced!! Given enough time and money, almost any problem can be solved.

Thanks, guys.
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