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post #2851 of Old 03-14-2012, 04:59 PM
CoRubicon
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Where are you guys getting Valvoline VR one, I can't find it at my local places.

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post #2852 of Old 03-14-2012, 05:35 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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Got mine at O'Reilly's. They had to order 10-30 from the local warehouse. They had it in a day or two.
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post #2853 of Old 03-14-2012, 06:22 PM
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Carquest orders mine special for me. Most parts retailers can get it for you in a couple of days or less. I haven't found any deals online worth paying the shipping...

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post #2854 of Old 03-14-2012, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Originally Posted by FlynG View Post
I want to address my ODPA but I do not think I fully understand which route is better. Fog mod or oil bath? Do I mod my existing ODPA with normal wear or get a new one?
I wouldn't recommend modding an old one unless the old one has low miles or the old one has a normal wear pattern. I don't recall if you posted pics of your gear wear, but I'll assume you're comfortable enough that the old one is still in good condition.

Regarding the oil bath vs. FogMod (I'll assume both oil cup version or grease), the oil bath is likely cheaper and messier. My preferred method knowing what I know is the oil cup. It is relatively simple and uses a small supply of oil that is pushed out the top bushing (not recirculated). A squirt at each oil change is all it takes.

I believe all the alternate methods are good and some are personal preference. There are a few that require a little extra effort and skill, but they all address the potential for binding.

Regarding the ticking OPDA, like flying_bosun said, I can't think of anything in/on the OPDA that could cause a tick. I think it's vibration from the engine. Typically ticks involve an exhaust leak or lifters. I also get a tick after each oil change and occasionally at start up. A quick restart and it's gone.
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post #2855 of Old 03-14-2012, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I wouldn't recommend modding an old one unless the old one has low miles or the old one has a normal wear pattern.
What's your thinking there?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Paul
“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul
"Did you exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"
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post #2856 of Old 03-14-2012, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Regarding the ticking OPDA, like flying_bosun said, I can't think of anything in/on the OPDA that could cause a tick.
My friend's '06 Anniversary edition ticked on startup until I took it apart and greased the OPDA shaft. After that, it was quiet until he got the cam & ODPA replaced under his certified used car warranty (excessive cam gear/OPDA gear wear).

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post #2857 of Old 03-15-2012, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
What's your thinking there?
Nothing more than basic paranoia. I've worked on a couple OPDA's will around 30K that already had damage and I've read reports at 18K. Since the price point of a new one is the reasonable realm ($120 vs. $250), better safe than sorry. If you are comfortable that it is good enough, go for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TJJP77
My friend's '06 Anniversary edition ticked on startup until I took it apart and greased the OPDA shaft. After that, it was quiet until he got the cam & ODPA replaced under his certified used car warranty (excessive cam gear/OPDA gear wear).
You're pretty educated on the OPDA and cam. What do think caused the noise?
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post #2858 of Old 03-15-2012, 10:25 AM
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Not sure if anyone has gone over this before, but if I was to run a zddp additive in conventional oil, what are my choices? I developed a Rear Main Seal leak since I started using Mobil 1 High Mileage and want to switch back from the synthetic to see if it helps before I get involved in replacing the RMS.

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post #2859 of Old 03-15-2012, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 4x4Brit View Post
Not sure if anyone has gone over this before, but if I was to run a zddp additive in conventional oil, what are my choices? I developed a Rear Main Seal leak since I started using Mobil 1 High Mileage and want to switch back from the synthetic to see if it helps before I get involved in replacing the RMS.

Thanks
It should be in the Oils and Grease section of the first page. ZDDPlus. I'm pretty sure JeepScrap uses it with good results. My RMS is wet. I'm ignoring it. In fact my RMS, front right axle, rear right axle, and output shaft all leak. Along with the tick, they're all a jeep thing.
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post #2860 of Old 03-15-2012, 11:31 AM
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Valvoline VR1 "racing oil" comes in both conventional & synthetic. The high zddp content is in the conventional oil. It is the one in the silver container. From their site:http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/6

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.
  • High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
  • Additional friction modifiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
  • Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
  • Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
  • Available through leading auto parts retailers
There are different opinions on this but I believe that having the zddp formulated into the oil is better than adding it to the oil.
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post #2861 of Old 03-15-2012, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
...
There are different opinions on this but I believe that having the zddp formulated into the oil is better than adding it to the oil.
I agree.
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post #2862 of Old 03-15-2012, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger

It should be in the Oils and Grease section of the first page. ZDDPlus. I'm pretty sure JeepScrap uses it with good results. My RMS is wet. I'm ignoring it. In fact my RMS, front right axle, rear right axle, and output shaft all leak. Along with the tick, they're all a jeep thing.
Yup...I run Mobil 1 high mileage with a bottle of zddp Plus and have no gear wear issues at all. It is compatible with conventional and synthetic oil. Not sure why a lot of guys here go crazy hunting for certain oils when they can just buy zddp Plus and be done with it. I order it by the 3 pack off Eastwood.com. Also, my jeep has had synthetic since it was born and I still don't have a RMS leak at 40k(knock wood). I'm sure it will happen eventually though...it is a jeep.

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post #2863 of Old 03-15-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepScrap View Post
my jeep has had synthetic since it was born and I still don't have a RMS leak at 40k(knock wood). I'm sure it will happen eventually though...it is a jeep.
My guess is that when you run dino the RMS swells a tad. When you switch to syn. it shrinks back to normal.

When you start off with syn. it never swells to begin with.

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post #2864 of Old 03-15-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
My guess is that when you run dino the RMS swells a tad. When you switch to syn. it shrinks back to normal.

When you start off with syn. it never swells to begin with.
That was a big issue back when synthetics first hit the market with Mobil 1. Prior to that everything was conventional & a lot of complaints were leaks & more oil consumption when switching. Not sure that was proven but I do remember the issues. Most at the time blamed it on the lower viscosity of synthetics.
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post #2865 of Old 03-15-2012, 01:34 PM
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It's all bs. It's all "dino" oil. Additives can ruin seals and viscosities can cause other issues, but synthetic oil is just really good regular oil at its base.

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