2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 187 - JeepForum.com

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post #2791 of 5449 Old 02-25-2012, 02:00 PM
Bigbob
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Okay, here we go;

This is my old/original OPDA. I intent to do a similar mod to my new one soon implementing some upgrades that came up while building this.

The first thing to do of course is to disassemble the unit. The stock bushing needs to be cut down. After figuring how much I needed to remove I cut a sleeve to the proper width and slipped it on the bushing as a guide and used a ball cutter on a die grinder and had at it. I used a flat abrasive wheel in my dremel to finish it.
This procedure must be done with care as it determines the end play of the shaft. Cut too much and you will have issues.

The pic shows the sleeve used to act as a guide for cutting the bushing and the seal holder that fits over the bushing.







The bushing is a little over ¾” in diameter so I had to grind/machine a little out of the 1” OD by ¾” ID DOM so it’d fit over the shaft. I left the top portion alone as the seal I used is ¾” OD.


Next I needed to make a support and washer for the shaft trust washer to ride on.

I brazed the washer to the DOM but I’d guess it could be welded and I bet even JB Weld would work. The DOM sleeve is just to keep the washer from floating free and rubbing the shaft.




The shaft was grooved for oil to run through. Not sure if this step was needed or not but I wanted to make sure the stock OPDA seal below the top bushing gets defeated. I also don’t want a bunch of oil pressure in the unit. Yes, the grooves are ugly, but very functional.








I used some silicon on the bushing holder to both seal it and keep it from spinning.



I also used silicone on the seal to glue it in.
NOTE: On my next version I will use a larger seal with a double lip and rubber housing.


I also used a little silicon on the washer/support assemble to keep it from spinning.



Greased up everything.





Here’s where the oil goes into the unit. I had done the fog mod to this unit so I just plugged the other side. I also ran a 1/16” drill through those 3 oil passage holes at the bottom bushing.




Here is how I plumbed the oil feed at the oil gauge sender unit.



I filled a nipple with solder and drilled a small hole, 1/32” or so, to act as a flow limiter.
This is the tee I used at the oil gauge sender port. The flow limiter only goes to the OPDA.



Here’s what it looks like with the engine running. I really like the extra oil at the gear.

(Yes, this can only be done if you have another OPDA in the Jeep!)


On a cold engine it flowed about 4 ounces in 4 minutes.



So I guess I'll install this and see what gives. I am guessing the added oil to the gear can't hurt and getting oil to the top bushing has to be a huge improvement. I my next unit I will use larger OD DOM to get a 1" seal in there.

NOTE: The seal I used is 1/2" ID X 3/4" OD. The shaft is about .5300 and I could fine zero seals that size. By using a 1" OD seal I have a few more options.


2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2792 of 5449 Old 02-25-2012, 03:02 PM
Slugger
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1oz. per minute is a 100% improvement over what we have now, thanks. Looking forward to hearing results after the install. The only thing might be a dry start of the shaft after sitting awhile, but a check ball in the supply line would give a quick fix. Thanks again
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post #2793 of 5449 Old 02-25-2012, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Slugger View Post
1oz. per minute is a 100% improvement over what we have now, thanks. Looking forward to hearing results after the install. The only thing might be a dry start of the shaft after sitting awhile, but a check ball in the supply line would give a quick fix. Thanks again
Not really too worried about dry starts. Mine's been started with zero oil in the OPDA since October 2005.

On the new unit I will also move the oil line inlet 90 degrees from where it is. Sort of hard to get to like it is.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2794 of 5449 Old 02-25-2012, 06:25 PM
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Nice work Bob and thanks for all the pics with detail.

I was curious as to why you greased everything when reassembling instead of maybe a coat of oil?
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post #2795 of 5449 Old 02-25-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lope View Post
Nice work Bob and thanks for all the pics with detail.

I was curious as to why you greased everything when reassembling instead of maybe a coat of oil?
The seal needs a little grease. But mainly the trust washer at the top likes to be lubed.

I am thinking the way the gear at the bottom is set the shaft moves up and removes any freeplay in the shaft. I wage when the engine is running that trust washer sees little action. But I greased it anyways.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2796 of 5449 Old 02-25-2012, 10:38 PM
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You are correct, in fact the washer will see no action. I have checked that with a dial indicator. The shaft rises up against the thrust washer between the gear & lower bushing/housing as soon as the engine cranks & doesn't settle back down until the engine is off. The plastic spacer under the wheel on mine still has the parting lines on it after 26,000 miles- so no wear there at all. I also found that the shaft end play is not that critical. I found that it changes very little between cold & operating temps.
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post #2797 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Bob, I've added your design to the Alternate Designs Section of the first page. Great work. Please review the link (to your post above). If there is any other info let me know and I'll link it.

I think at this point the oil cup is still my preferred method. It is still one of the easiest meaning more "Average Joe's" will be able to do it themselves. I do think that if Bob's method works well, aftermarket suppliers would do well to see what a little innovation and drive can produce.
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post #2798 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Bob, I've added your design to the Alternate Designs Section of the first page. Great work. Please review the link (to your post above). If there is any other info let me know and I'll link it.

I think at this point the oil cup is still my preferred method. It is still one of the easiest meaning more "Average Joe's" will be able to do it themselves. I do think that if Bob's method works well, aftermarket suppliers would do well to see what a little innovation and drive can produce.
Thanks Willy.

To be honest, this is much more simply than I expected. With a lathe it would be duck soup. I may be making a couple kits in the future. It is Rube Godberg-ish but it gets the job done plus more oil at the gear. I will try and get version 2.0 built in the next couple weeks. If that works as planned I can see putting together a kit for anyone who would want one. Outside of drilling a tapping like they are now the only work needed would be grinding down the bushing and cutting grooves in the shaft which most machine shops could do pretty cheap.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2799 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 05:22 PM
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All this really makes you think twice about purchasing a 05-06 Jeep. I have just sold my TJ , and was looking into upgrading to a LJ.
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post #2800 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
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All this really makes you think twice about purchasing a 05-06 Jeep. I have just sold my TJ , and was looking into upgrading to a LJ.
Not in the slightest. This is not an epidemic and for those unlucky enough to hit by it the work done in this thread is awesome and makes it manageable. I have an 06 TJ (and have been lucky enough not to get hit by it) that I bought brand new off the dealership. Only thing I would change if doing it again was consider an LJ.

#feelthejohnson
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post #2801 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jbg1980 View Post
All this really makes you think twice about purchasing a 05-06 Jeep. I have just sold my TJ , and was looking into upgrading to a LJ.
No way. IMHO the '05-'06 Rubicon LJ is the best offering Jeep has had up to date. You just need to be pro-active with this issue. Then it becomes a non-issue and you have a great Jeep to boot.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2802 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 06:06 PM
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Would you be concerned with buying a 05 Rubicon LJ with 89k on it?
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post #2803 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jbg1980 View Post
Would you be concerned with buying a 05 Rubicon LJ with 89k on it?
Nope. Just check it.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2804 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbg1980
Would you be concerned with buying a 05 Rubicon LJ with 89k on it?
Yes. Pretty hard to tell a seller you want to pull the opda in his driveway or get a dealer to do it. IMO. Sucks because I really wanted a low mileage 06 6 speed Got an 04 with 93k instead.

2004 LJ, Auto, Zone 3.5"/1.25"BL/MML/285 KM2s
2005 Rubicon, RE 4.5/3.5" SF, 285 KM2s sold
99 Sport, BB, BL, MML, 33s, sold
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post #2805 of 5449 Old 02-26-2012, 08:10 PM
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I never expressed any complacency for being outside the date listed in right there in E05 MAR that was provided on page 1 of this thread…
2005 (TJ) Jeep(R) Wrangler
NOTE : This notification applies only to the above vehicles equipped with a 4.0L eligible ("S" in the 8th VIN position) and an engine build code between 902944 (October 20, 2004) and 900325 (February 1, 2005).
but in reading this, was trying to determine if mine qualified for any correction at the dealership level for the gear since I am the second owner. This is the first time I had ever heard of this thanks to this thread. Special thanks the originator of this thread and all the contributors who are attempting to help/educate fellow Jeep owners without trying to belittle them in the process.
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