2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 184 - JeepForum.com

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post #2746 of 5452 Old 02-12-2012, 07:12 PM
flying_bosun
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Originally Posted by \\WK// View Post
I just installed a new opda. Would it hurt anything to lube the opda every once in a while by just taking the cover off and squirt some lube from the top, so it makes it's way down the spindle? Thinking about using some Slip2000 extreme weapons lubricant.
One of the mods would be better, but to occasionally squirt would be better than nothing. I'd also use the same oil as is inside, but that's just me.


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post #2747 of 5452 Old 02-12-2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by flying_bosun

One of the mods would be better, but to occasionally squirt would be better than nothing. I'd also use the same oil as is inside, but that's just me.
Good point. I wondered if I would contaminate the engine oil by using a different lube.
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post #2748 of 5452 Old 02-12-2012, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by \\WK// View Post
I just installed a new opda. Would it hurt anything to lube the opda every once in a while by just taking the cover off and squirt some lube from the top, so it makes it's way down the spindle? Thinking about using some Slip2000 extreme weapons lubricant.
Kinda tough to get any lube in there though.

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post #2749 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 12:31 PM
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The ticking happens sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Today it ticked, popped the hood and put my hand on the opda. Def coming from that... But like I said my gears almost had no ware.
Soo, I'm fu**ed?
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post #2750 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ajmadic View Post
Soo, I'm fu**ed?
I can't say for certain without being there. Here are some facts to help you figure it out.

Laughing Monkey is the key indicator the OPDA is bad.

Ticking is a general I6 symptom/issue/condition that can be a problem. I think most of us here have had the tick, however IMO it is not related to the OPDA problems.

Typically for me the tick happens after EVERY oil change and occasionally on start up.

I relate it to a main seal leak. Most jeeps have it, and it can be minor or major. You'll have to decide what you're comfortable with.

To determine the quality of the OPDA check gear wear, and more importantly check to see if there is binding. That may mean a full disassembly.

Even with a brand new OPDA, you may still have a tick.
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post #2751 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I can't say for certain without being there. Here are some facts to help you figure it out.

Laughing Monkey is the key indicator the OPDA is bad.

Ticking is a general I6 symptom/issue/condition that can be a problem. I think most of us here have had the tick, however IMO it is not related to the OPDA problems.

Typically for me the tick happens after EVERY oil change and occasionally on start up.

I relate it to a main seal leak. Most jeeps have it, and it can be minor or major. You'll have to decide what you're comfortable with.

To determine the quality of the OPDA check gear wear, and more importantly check to see if there is binding. That may mean a full disassembly.

Even with a brand new OPDA, you may still have a tick.
This was very helpful and somewhat good news.

Hardly any wear on the gear, only ticks sometimes and no laughing monkey.

Did you mean rear main seal leak? I do indeed have a rear main seal leak but the drips are only minor and nothing to worry about at the moment. I was planning on doing my rear main seal and oil pan leak soon, though.
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post #2752 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ajmadic View Post
Soo, I'm fu**ed?
Absolutely not. You say the gear shows little wear the gear going bad is what destroys the engine. Do one of the mods that are shown here to make sure your shaft/bushing is lubed. Tear that sucker apart and check it. Post some pictures and people on here can assess what you have.


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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post

Typically for me the tick happens after EVERY oil change and occasionally on start up.
Which is indicative of lifter noise. Very common on these motors as they have sub-standard lifters!


Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
To determine the quality of the OPDA check gear wear, and more importantly check to see if there is binding. That may mean a full disassembly.

Even with a brand new OPDA, you may still have a tick.
Ditto. I think what many think is a tick in the OPDA is incorrect. I can't think of anything in there that can tick. When you feel a rhythmic "tick" by putting your hand on the unit I think the only possible thing that it could be is the shaft going up and down due to the end play. These OPDA's have a lot of end play.

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post #2753 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ajmadic View Post

Did you mean rear main seal leak? I do indeed have a rear main seal leak but the drips are only minor and nothing to worry about at the moment. I was planning on doing my rear main seal and oil pan leak soon, though.
Rear main has nothing to do with the ticking or the OPDA unless the leak is so severe you run out of oil. If it needs fixing, fix it, but don't confuse it with the tick.

How many miles do you have on your engine and what oild do you use?

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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2754 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Rear main has nothing to do with the ticking or the OPDA unless the leak is so severe you run out of oil. If it needs fixing, fix it, but don't confuse it with the tick.

How many miles do you have on your engine and what oild do you use?
97,000 and Mobile 1. I don't know what the previously owner used, but I've used nothing but good oil and filters since I've got it.
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post #2755 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 02:22 PM
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And I just read your lifters post from a couple of days ago. Looks like I'll be going to shell more often than cruddy, cheap gas places.
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post #2756 of 5452 Old 02-13-2012, 04:23 PM
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97,000 and Mobile 1. I don't know what the previously owner used, but I've used nothing but good oil and filters since I've got it.
You want to use a ACEA-A3 oil which Mobil 1 High Mileage is. FYI, the Mobil 1 "Extended Mileage" is ACEA-A1 which is also good, but the Mobil 1 High Mileage is more gooder. It has a little more zinc in it and is meant for older engines. Many get confused with putting a "High Mileage" motor oil in a new or newer low mileage rig. But in actuality the 2006 4.0 engine needed High Mileage oil from the factory as it was an old school flat tappet engine. The EPA wanted oil makers to lower the zinc content due to catalytic converters or some BS. But the low zinc oil and flat tappets don't mix. Of course that has no bearing on the OPDA issues we have as only the lower bushing gets lubed by engine oil anyway and any old oil is fine for that.

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And I just read your lifters post from a couple of days ago. Looks like I'll be going to shell more often than cruddy, cheap gas places.
The detergent in gasoline like Chevron with Techron really does help keep the valve stems clean. I actually try to use it in all my vehicles for that reason. The Texaco and Shell are also good. Just try to not constantly fill up with raw gasoline. Interesting enough, I find on 3 of the 4 vehicles I drive the gas mileage is better with Chevron gas as well. Probably not enough better to cover the added cost, but enough to make the difference much less. I had an '04 Turbo PT Cruiser that was just a fun Hot Rod. Running the Chevron 93 octane gas made what seemed like 20-30 hp more than any other 93 octane gas.

Bottom line is----many think lifter wear/noise/issues are connected with the OPDA failing. Only way this happens is if you get so much wear at the pinion/cam worm gear that metal is flowing through the system and destroying the lifters, which has happened, but that also destroys the crank bearings, cam bearings, and just about everything that gets lubed by the oil. If your cam worm gear and OPDA pinion gear looks good but you have a tick them I'd suspect lifter problems. If the ticking stops upon warm up don't worry about it. Worry about more worry worthy things like spiders under the toilet seat or flat beer.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2757 of 5452 Old 02-14-2012, 07:13 AM
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Thanks everyone for all of this info...I have read through as much as I can but I didnt see or maybe I just dont understand how to install an all new opda...I understand how to check my current one and how to use the sharpie method to keep it in synce but how do we install a new unit and make sure that it is correctly aligned?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2758 of 5452 Old 02-14-2012, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for all of this info...I have read through as much as I can but I didnt see or maybe I just dont understand how to install an all new opda...I understand how to check my current one and how to use the sharpie method to keep it in synce but how do we install a new unit and make sure that it is correctly aligned?

Thanks in advance!
Go back to page 183. There is a brief discussion. You can transfer the sharpie marks or use the alignment holes.
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post #2759 of 5452 Old 02-14-2012, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JustinCHorst View Post
Thanks everyone for all of this info...I have read through as much as I can but I didnt see or maybe I just dont understand how to install an all new opda...I understand how to check my current one and how to use the sharpie method to keep it in synce but how do we install a new unit and make sure that it is correctly aligned?

Thanks in advance!
Easiest way and most positive way is to just turn your engine over with a 3/4"socket at the front of the crank shaft. I have an advantage as I am tall and have long arms. I just reach down from the right side of the Jeep and using a ratchet turn the engine over until the 2 holes are lined up. Don't worry about the fan as it is free spinning when the engine is off.

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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2760 of 5452 Old 02-14-2012, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Easiest way and most positive way is to just turn your engine over with a 3/4"socket at the front of the crank shaft. I have an advantage as I am tall and have long arms. I just reach down from the right side of the Jeep and using a ratchet turn the engine over until the 2 holes are lined up. Don't worry about the fan as it is free spinning when the engine is off.


Thanks BigBob and Willydigger!
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