2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 168 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > 2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure

THE NEW! VANCO DUAL MODE 15”/16″ Big Brake Kit w/BlaSavvy Billet LED Tail LightsCurrie

Reply
Unread 12-19-2011, 10:19 PM   #2506
efm-7
Registered User
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 86
Good point. Running around town to get all those taps was a a bit of a PITA indeed.

I think my old OPDA is good enough to be rebuilt, I took it apart and the shaft at the upper bushing is almost pristine. There is a bit of scoring at the bottom but nothing too serious. Just needs a new gear.

efm-7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-19-2011, 11:08 PM   #2507
Rubi4MyMrs
Tks 4 the upgrade MoodyJP
 
Rubi4MyMrs's Avatar
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trails of, Nevada
Posts: 2,452
That's what is crazy about these, some bad gears, some (most) bad top bushings, some bad lower bushing, some no problems at all.
Rubi4MyMrs is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 02:48 PM   #2508
rubicon17
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: , WY
Posts: 1,131
i have searched for an hour and looked through the faq at the first page but i dont have time to go through 170 pages, anyway i had slight wear on my original opda with 10,500 original miles so i ordered a opda and seal, im going to fogmod the new one and install it an keep my current one for a spare. when i install the new one do i need to do anything special or can i just line up the target wheel in the same spot as the one im taking out and all is good to go?
__________________
Selling: tj rubicon locker, tatton drive shaft,xseries bushings
rubicon17 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:10 PM   #2509
efm-7
Registered User
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon17 View Post
i have searched for an hour and looked through the faq at the first page but i dont have time to go through 170 pages, anyway i had slight wear on my original opda with 10,500 original miles so i ordered a opda and seal, im going to fogmod the new one and install it an keep my current one for a spare. when i install the new one do i need to do anything special or can i just line up the target wheel in the same spot as the one im taking out and all is good to go?
You can try to do that as people have had success with that method, but to be sure, I spun my engine to top dead center position and dropped in my OPDA with the alignment pin in.
efm-7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:17 PM   #2510
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon17 View Post
i have searched for an hour and looked through the faq at the first page but i dont have time to go through 170 pages, anyway i had slight wear on my original opda with 10,500 original miles so i ordered a opda and seal, im going to fogmod the new one and install it an keep my current one for a spare. when i install the new one do i need to do anything special or can i just line up the target wheel in the same spot as the one im taking out and all is good to go?
Just match the new one to the old one. It is very easy. TDC adds to difficulty. If you have a good eye and a steady hand you should be able to match the marks and install just like the video shows. Should you be off a little and throw a code, loosen the housing and give it a slight twist CW. If it improves you good, if not try going CCW. I've swapped a couple using the sharpie with no problems. If you managed to remove and install your current one, you should have no trouble swapping in a new one with the sharpie.
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:20 PM   #2511
rubicon17
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: , WY
Posts: 1,131
k thank alot for the help, i was wondering about the easy way just incase im far from home and it goes out for some reason im not wrenching on it in the muck tryin to find tdc!
__________________
Selling: tj rubicon locker, tatton drive shaft,xseries bushings
rubicon17 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:33 PM   #2512
ajmadic
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 164
Is this the correct part?

http://dodge-wholesale.com/catalog/p...ucts_id=221662

All reviews were bad, saying it wasn't getting enough lubrication?
ajmadic is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:38 PM   #2513
ChaseB
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmadic View Post
Is this the correct part?

http://dodge-wholesale.com/catalog/p...ucts_id=221662

All reviews were bad, saying it wasn't getting enough lubrication?
ummm....did you catch any of this thread?
__________________
[B]1984 CJ-7[/B] Renegade
[B]2005 TJ X [/B](daily driver)
ChaseB is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:40 PM   #2514
ajmadic
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 164


Didn't want to read through 168 pages
ajmadic is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 04:55 PM   #2515
flying_bosun
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: 34*24'N, 119*42'W, SoCal
Posts: 3,893
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmadic


Didn't want to read through 168 pages
Yes, that is the correct part and you might be able to save a few bucks by going through the site linked in my sig and asking for "jeep club" pricing when you call.

Btw, much of the info you need about the OPDA is in the first 10 or 12 posts.
__________________
[URL="http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html"][COLOR="Red"][SIZE="3"]Gear-Calculator[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.stu-offroad.com/siteindex.asp"][COLOR="White"][SIZE="3"]Stu Can Help You[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.berrysprinter.com/jeepparts.php"][COLOR="Blue"][SIZE="3"]Part Names and Numbers[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.wholesalemopar.com/"][SIZE="3"][COLOR="Red"]Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices[/COLOR][/SIZE][/URL]


[QUOTE=Ron Paul]“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul[/QUOTE]

[CENTER][SIZE="5"]"Did [I]you[/I] exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"[/SIZE][/CENTER]
flying_bosun is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-20-2011, 05:06 PM   #2516
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmadic View Post
Is this the correct part?

http://dodge-wholesale.com/catalog/p...ucts_id=221662

All reviews were bad, saying it wasn't getting enough lubrication?
I think one of those was my review.

Like bosun said most of the meat is on the first page. Don't worry about asking though, sometimes I overlook things.
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-21-2011, 11:51 AM   #2517
efm-7
Registered User
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 86
I have a line on Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil for a good price, supposedly has high levels of zinc and made for flat tappets. Any opinions on this stuff? My other option is ZDDP Plus.

I assume It's gonna be a while before I can afford to get a shop to change my cam and lifters so I'm just gonna try to slow down the wear on the current cam as much as I can.
efm-7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-21-2011, 12:08 PM   #2518
flying_bosun
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: 34*24'N, 119*42'W, SoCal
Posts: 3,893
Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
I have a line on Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil for a good price, supposedly has high levels of zinc and made for flat tappets. Any opinions on this stuff? My other option is ZDDP Plus.

I assume It's gonna be a while before I can afford to get a shop to change my cam and lifters so I'm just gonna try to slow down the wear on the current cam as much as I can.
No personal experience, but here's some info to chew on. Racing Oil lab tests

And from that link:
Quote:
Joe Gibbs 10W30 XP3 Racing Oil (lab tested 2011)
NOTE: Some of the numbers here were so unusual and unexpected, that I had the lab re-test the oil sample on another day, after other oil tests showed normal results, just to ensure that the original test was valid. And the re –test came back with the exact same numbers. So, the numbers here, are what they are. But we know this line of oil works incredibly well. Because it was developed for, and is used by, winning Sprint Cup NASCAR teams.
Silicon = 4 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 259 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Magnesium = 1 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 356 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 4 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Total detergent/dispersant (anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) = 620 ppm
Zinc = 743 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 802 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 1125 ppm (anti-wear)
Total anti-wear = 2670 ppm
Potassium = 5 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
Sodium = 5 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
TBN = 1.8 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9. And in use, this becomes depleted over time as mileage accumulates)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 12.2 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.

The detergent and TBN levels are so very low here, that this oil should most likely be changed after every outing, before those components are totally exhausted.

This oil line is one of the leading oils used in NASCAR Sprint Cup endurance engines, yet it has very low levels of zinc/phos, about the same as modern API SN oils. So, this is one example of a textbook case showing that you cannot really depend on elemental zinc/phos numbers alone, to predict how well an oil can protect against wear in high HP, high RPM engines. If you looked at the zinc/phos levels alone, like so many folks do, you’d think this oil should only be used in granny’s late model grocery getter.

This is something that the Royal Purple folks have said all along as well. Because their proprietary “Synerlec” additive is their primary extreme pressure additive, and their zinc/phos levels are only icing on the cake and do not need to be as high as it does with other oils.

The only way to really know how oils compare to each other with regard to preventing metal to metal contact, is to perform lab testing (quickest and most controlled method, particularly when testing a large number of oils) or real world on the road or on the track testing (time consuming, not well controlled, and perhaps impractical if a lot of oils are involved). This way you can test the whole additive package along with its base oil, to see how the overall product actually works. Simply looking at an oil lab test printout, is not enough information to always give you the right answer.

It’s the same thing with a new engine. You don’t just look at its build sheet to really see how well it will perform. You test it on the dyno and/or on the track (or road), to see the real deal.

So, with all that in mind, I’ve ordered an oil wear tester. And in the coming months, I’ll be performing impartial testing of all the oils on this list, and maybe a few others, to see how they rank against each other. I don’t really care which one wins or how they rank. I just want to “KNOW” which one wins and how they rank, so that I can make a better informed decision as to which oil I want to run in my own motors. I have no problem switching brands if the test results show the need to do so. Once I put all that data together, I’ll post the results for anyone interested in seeing it.



Joe Gibbs 10W30 HR-4 Hot Rod Oil (lab tested 2011)
Silicon = 4 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 6 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Magnesium = 164 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2964 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Total detergent/dispersant (anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) = 3134 ppm
Zinc = 1247 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 1137 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 24 ppm (anti-wear)
Total anti-wear = 2408 ppm
Potassium = <5 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
Sodium = 2 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
TBN = 9.4 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9. And in use, this becomes depleted over time as mileage accumulates)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 11.6 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.
The Hot Rod oil doesn't sound too bad, though I'm not sure how to interpret the low total ant-wear (esp. the Moly).
__________________
[URL="http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html"][COLOR="Red"][SIZE="3"]Gear-Calculator[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.stu-offroad.com/siteindex.asp"][COLOR="White"][SIZE="3"]Stu Can Help You[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.berrysprinter.com/jeepparts.php"][COLOR="Blue"][SIZE="3"]Part Names and Numbers[/SIZE][/COLOR][/URL] [URL="http://www.wholesalemopar.com/"][SIZE="3"][COLOR="Red"]Dealer Supplied Parts and ask for "Jeep Club" Prices[/COLOR][/SIZE][/URL]


[QUOTE=Ron Paul]“Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long.”
― Ron Paul[/QUOTE]

[CENTER][SIZE="5"]"Did [I]you[/I] exchange your walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?"[/SIZE][/CENTER]
flying_bosun is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-21-2011, 12:13 PM   #2519
JeepScrap
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: , NJ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7
My other option is ZDDP Plus.
That's what I do. Just add a bottle to my Mobil 1 and call it done. So far so good.
__________________
"Science will win in a battle with religion because it works." -Stephen Hawking
JeepScrap is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-21-2011, 12:31 PM   #2520
efm-7
Registered User
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 86
Thx for the info flying_bosun, I'll grab the Hot rod oil since I can get 6 quarts for $36, I gotta change the oil anyways because I don't know when it was last changed in this thing before I took ownership. it's something I should be doing soon just to be safe, all I know is that the current oil isn't dark/black.

I'll likely use ZDDP Plus + whatever oil i decide to use on the next change
efm-7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.