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Unread 12-16-2011, 06:58 PM   #2491
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
So I pulled my OPDA from my 2005 TJ with 165,000kms on it, I have two extremes to share:

...
We have concluded that binding and gear wear are not related, though binding will contribute. The fact that yours spun freely corroborates that fact. The FogMod, although a great solution to binding, may not help with gear wear. It did for me and a few other, though my mileage is still relatively low.

Regarding the oil, that is very strange. If the seal failed I would expect more oil. There have been some instances of black sludge flecks which I attributed to a seal failure and oil sludge. Your pic looks like fresh new oil. Very odd.

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Unread 12-16-2011, 07:06 PM   #2492
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I will report back when I take it apart. For the gear wear, I guess I will have to try different oils or ZDDP additives.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 07:57 PM   #2493
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Is cam replacement an immediate need? :S
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Unread 12-16-2011, 09:45 PM   #2494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
The video demonstrates how to put in the same one that was just removed. I'm installing a new one.
It was super easy to turn the engine once I got the rear wheel up anyways. The only annoying thing was running back and forth from the wheel to the engine since I was doing this alone :P

Rolling the car forward is not an option for me since I dont have much space to work on this. There's maybe 4 feet left once the jeep is in the garage, and it's too cold and rainy outside
I put a new one in mine as well but I just matched the marks from the old one and it worked fine.

Whatever the case, good luck with it!!
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Unread 12-18-2011, 02:57 PM   #2495
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I just pulled my OPDA for inspection:
- 3779 miles since the install of a new Fogmodded OPDA
- Using Areoshell MS33 grease
- OPDA spun freely upon removal
- there were discolorations on the upper (toward the flywheel) portion of the shaft, but the shaft surface felt smooth. I removed the darkened areas with a few swipes of emory cloth.
- I changed out the grease zerk from a short shank to a long shank and recharged the OPDA with more Areoshell MS 33.
- I just switched from M1 High milage to M1 TDT oil.
- the gear looked to be in good shape and the wear looked symetrical.
- no problem with the removal or reinstall, allthough getting the OPDA clamp back on took some time.
- oil pump tang looked normal (No wear)
- many thanks to Willy and Fog for all of the effort/info.
- I am going to try to upload my first pics of the assembly:
dsc02084.jpg   dsc02085.jpg   dsc02086.jpg  
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Unread 12-18-2011, 04:07 PM   #2496
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Looks good! Especially the gear. How was the old one when you replaced it?
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Unread 12-19-2011, 11:48 AM   #2497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Looks good! Especially the gear. How was the old one when you replaced it?
I agree. The gear looks like mine does. Whether it's FogMod or ZDDP, I'm very pleased with the results.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 12:27 PM   #2498
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I like your idea. What if we drilled a small hole at a 45 angle through the upper bushing to ensure oil is delivered from the bath.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 01:07 PM   #2499
willydigger
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I like your idea. What if we drilled a small hole at a 45 angle through the upper bushing to ensure oil is delivered from the bath.
I assume you're referring to the oil bath. A 45 isn't necessary and adds to the difficulty. Draining back to the reservoir that feeds to the bushing is effective enough. Considering it wicks out, the majority of the bushing is lubricated. A hole straight down it good enough.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 06:42 PM   #2500
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Drilling the bushing like that or like I posted in #2400 earlier this month would save some work on an un-modded unit because you could skip the mods to the lower part of the housing. No drilling, tapping, removing the plug or cleaning the reservoir. That is if you are going to the oil bath & sealing the top section of the housing.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 07:12 PM   #2501
efm-7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Drilling the bushing like that or like I posted in #2400 earlier this month would save some work on an un-modded unit because you could skip the mods to the lower part of the housing. No drilling, tapping, removing the plug or cleaning the reservoir. That is if you are going to the oil bath & sealing the top section of the housing.
Did you post a diagram? Because if you did, it's not showing up for me
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Unread 12-19-2011, 07:34 PM   #2502
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Maybe a stupid question:

If you drilled the hole (like in the oil bath method) and removed the oil seal do you think enough oil would get up there like a a standard "old School" distributor to keep things lubed? I guess the housing would fill with oil if things worked wonderful and then drain down via the hole when the engine is shut off. Of course you'd want the housing sealed pretty good to keep contaminated oil draining back down into the engine.

Second stupid question:

Considering a healthy engine with little wear--is the crankcase under a slight vacuum from the PVC hose or is it canceled out?
Vacuum hose to the sealed OPDA housing to help suck oil up from the pinion gear area?
(No, I don't take drugs)
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:49 PM   #2503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
Did you post a diagram? Because if you did, it's not showing up for me
No, but borrowing from your diagram it would go like this
opda-mod.jpg  
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Unread 12-19-2011, 09:33 PM   #2504
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Ah okay. Hmm, I think i'd still feel a lot more comfortable with the hole being lower. That way as the oil level gets low, it won't have as many "disconnects" with the oil supply during regular movement of the vehicle.

I don't think drilling, tapping, cleaning the factory reservoir is that big of a deal though. But I may only be saying this because it looks like a small job compared to a CAM REPLACEMENT which I may be looking at now
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Unread 12-19-2011, 10:05 PM   #2505
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Not a big deal for me either but I already had all the tools needed for the job but I realize not all do & several have questioned where to get them & even you had trouble sourcing the parts needed which lead to a variation on the original mod. This is just a potential variation for those who need a simpler way, being mindful that it will require sealing the top part of the housing to contain the oil.
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