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Unread 12-13-2011, 02:24 PM   #2461
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogbones View Post
Now i'm afraid, at 60k on the clock now that its a ticking time-bomb, people have had the gear blow at around or slightly before 60k so now its just a matter of time..
But also people who have gone a lot farther than that with no problems yet. As far as I know nobody has figured out why it hits some quickly and others not. But don't make yourself crazy about miles alone.

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Unread 12-13-2011, 02:27 PM   #2462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogbones View Post
This has me a little worried, since im not the most savvy with mechanical stuff..and I know the dealer would tell me its fine til it blows up...Do you think a local mechanic, if I told him the same exact problem and show him that a lot of people have been having this problem that he may inspect it or maybe I should just buy it and have them replace it for peace of mind...

Now i'm afraid, at 60k on the clock now that its a ticking time-bomb, people have had the gear blow at around or slightly before 60k so now its just a matter of time..
I remember when I first discovered this problem and I was panicked. Take a deep breath.

Some go early, some go late, some never go.

If you have a local shop that you trust to install and remove, they should have no problem replacing it. You can purchase one for around $120 and have it done locally.
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Unread 12-13-2011, 09:54 PM   #2463
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I have had issues with excessive wear on my drive gear and have a fogmodded OPDA and I have a valve tick on start up that disappears when it warms up.

Anyhooo......I also have a noise that I assumed is the starter when I crank it over.....sounds like a starter motor cranking over when the engine has started sort of noise...

It's been doing this for a year.

Just wondered if:
1. It could be related to my timing being out or an issue with cam gear wear / timing
2. The meshing of the OPDA and Cam gear.

Thoughts
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Unread 12-14-2011, 07:29 AM   #2464
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I've been pulling my OPDA every 3 months or so and although mine is worn it doesn't seem to be getting any worse. I've been using oils with higher zinc content for the last year, first Mobil 1 high mileage and for the last 3 changes Valvoline VR-1. I've put 12,000 miles on the Jeep in the last year. I'm at 65,000 now. I have a new OPDA on deck but if the wear isn't getting much worse I'll hold off on replacing the current one. The pics below are current and the same angle from a year ago.

Now



1 year ago


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Unread 12-14-2011, 08:00 AM   #2465
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That looks great Keithert! Looks like the oil is a major player here!
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Unread 12-14-2011, 02:37 PM   #2466
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Did mine today.

Place I ordered from didn't include the gasket that I asked for Thankfully mine was in good shape.

Watched willydigger's vid and then went all in. Easy, probably 20-25 min total by myself.

Gear on the old unit looked "ok" but there is some wear. I have 98k on my rig, 61K of which is me running synthetic (usually Mobil 1) over the past three years. There was significant resistance when turning the shaft by hand. Glad I had it towed last night.



Thank you again for the help
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Unread 12-14-2011, 03:51 PM   #2467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DME View Post
Did mine today.

...Watched willydigger's vid and then went all in. Easy, probably 20-25 min total by myself.

Gear on the old unit looked "ok" but there is some wear. I have 98k on my rig, 61K of which is me running synthetic (usually Mobil 1) over the past three years. There was significant resistance when turning the shaft by hand....
Glad everything went okay. Can you disassemble the old OPDA so we can see the shaft and bushings? If not, would you mind shipping it to me so I can disassemble? I'd really like to see what causes the binding. I had to leave mine with the dealer so I never got a chance to dissect.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 04:33 PM   #2468
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Updated first page to include new Laughing Monkey video from DME.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 05:43 PM   #2469
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question about installing a New OPDA:

With the factory plastic allignment tool installed, the new OPDA does not end at the same 4 o'clock position the old one came out at. Is this normal? When it goes into position its at the 6 o'clock position or pretty much perpendicular to the engine.

Am I supposed to take the pin out and move it to the 4 o'clock position or do I just secure it as is in the 6 o'clock position while the plastic allignment tool is still in?
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Unread 12-14-2011, 06:02 PM   #2470
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No. If the engine is at TDC, you have to have the OPDA set (tighten the bolt) with the pin in place. If you are at 6 o'clock you are one tooth off. You can leave it that way & it will be fine. Better still, pull it out & turn the slot in the oil pump a little more counter clockwise & turn the OPDA housing a little further CCW & put it back in. It should rotate as it goes in & end up more or less at 4 o'clock. Make sure the unit in all the way down , if not it is not in the oil pump slot. See Willy's video on this on page 1. In the end what is important is that the holes (for the pin) line up when the engine is at TDC regardless of the housing position to avoid a CEL code.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 07:09 PM   #2471
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I'm having a lot of troubles getting the engine to TDC.. I just can't get my ratchet between the fan blades and the harmonic balancer very easily. I've gotten it to go on once, and standing from the front of the jeep, tried to turn counter-clockwise but nothing.

Could I jack up a back wheel, put it in 6th, and have a friend spin it? (of it's an open diff, this should be doable right?)
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Unread 12-14-2011, 07:44 PM   #2472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7
I'm having a lot of troubles getting the engine to TDC.. I just can't get my ratchet between the fan blades and the harmonic balancer very easily. I've gotten it to go on once, and standing from the front of the jeep, tried to turn counter-clockwise but nothing.

Could I jack up a back wheel, put it in 6th, and have a friend spin it? (of it's an open diff, this should be doable right?)
Yes. Just so long as he spins it as if simulating forward motion.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 07:44 PM   #2473
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Yes, it's tight in there. You want to go clockwise. Easier with a manual trans to leave it on the ground & push it forward in 6th. With the cap off you can see when you are getting close. Actually when the holes line up you s/b on TDC. Easier to see the mark with the belt off. You can also bump the engine with the starter to get close. As you get near TDC it turns easier (if you push or use a wrench).
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:34 AM   #2474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Glad everything went okay. Can you disassemble the old OPDA so we can see the shaft and bushings? If not, would you mind shipping it to me so I can disassemble? I'd really like to see what causes the binding. I had to leave mine with the dealer so I never got a chance to dissect.
If I have some time this weekend I'll see if I can't get it apart.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 03:38 PM   #2475
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I dont know about the rest of you, but trying to put the engine at TDC by yourself SUCKS

I swear the next project is all alluminium radiator and ditch the factory fan. It's freaking impossible to tell where things are at with all that crap in the way.


Also, really glad I changed mine out. I had the screaming monkeys hit me a few months back then they vanished w/o any hint as to why so I figured all was well. But I decided to go ahead and swap it out anyway, even if there werent any signs of impending doom.

When I pulled the old one out I saw a crack in the drive gear going about halfway through the bottom portion of the drive gear. Other than that not much wear on the gear itself and looked pretty good aside from the crack in the drive gear. I'm pretty sure had I left it un-touched I would have had a broken drive gear just like that pic in Post #3 of this thread.

Also interesting was there were a lot of gouge marks in the key-hole portion that drives the oil pump. So far I havn't seen any other pics with similar marks. So thats a little concerning to say the least.
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