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Unread 12-05-2011, 10:22 PM   #2401
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
I proposed reversing the seal a few months back after vertically dissecting my original failed unit, but don't have the tools to remove the upper bushing, flip the seal, and re-press the bushing. I still have a brand new spare that I would volunteer for the project if someone can do it or if anyone wants to pitch in on the funding. I just can't afford to throw any cash into a machine shop to make it happen right now.

For pics of my dissect look to the first few pages of this thread. I still sincerely believe that the seals may be installed upside down from the mfg.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillR View Post
What would happen if you simply removed that seal and reassembled the unit? I'm trying to picture why that would be any worse than filling the top end w/oil...
Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
You can't pull the seal without removing the upper bushing first. I think you need some oil flow restriction, but not complete flow elimination that the current seal orientation imposes.
I don’t think anyone is going to get the top bushing out in any condition to re-use it. Besides Lope tried the seal removal. I don’t think oil will wick all the way to the top. The space between the bushings may have too much volume. Check these posts
#1006 tkki1230

#1880 lope

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Unread 12-06-2011, 07:09 AM   #2402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Not a bad idea but not sure how easy it would be to build. Here is part of what I posted last Sept that got no comments. It is basically a hybrid version of dproctor’s build. Less hardware & all you need is to remove the shaft & drill 1 hole. No thread tapping.

If you removed the CPS & the shaft, you could drill the bushing, accessing it through the CPS hole (angling it to the housing “floor”). Then seal the whole thing like dproctor did then fill the top of the housing with oil. That would lube the bushing as long as there was oil in there & you wouldn’t have to worry about oil spilling over the top of the bushing (it would just re-circulate itself). If you didn’t fill the housing too full you hopefully would not need to seal the cap making it easy to check the oil level. If your seal is good that amount of oil should last a long time. My very early ’05 seal is doing great holding oil.

Thoughts?
I don't see why that wouldn't work. You could make a gasket with rubber or cork to put under the cap to keep out dust but still remove easily.
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Unread 12-06-2011, 04:25 PM   #2403
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just went out and checked my build date and mileage. the only codes it keeps throwing is the ramdon misfire no tic little rough idle but runs excellent overall. I'm the second owner and according to a service printout no major work ever done. Change oil every 3,000 at the dealership. The build date is 7/05 and the mileage is 159,920 Not sure if I want to pull it myself but if someone in the adrian mi area wants to pull and take pictures come on over. Will then just have a new one installed and fogmod. bob
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Unread 12-06-2011, 05:24 PM   #2404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tre52bor View Post
just went out and checked my build date and mileage. the only codes it keeps throwing is the ramdon misfire no tic little rough idle but runs excellent overall. I'm the second owner and according to a service printout no major work ever done. Change oil every 3,000 at the dealership. The build date is 7/05 and the mileage is 159,920 Not sure if I want to pull it myself but if someone in the adrian mi area wants to pull and take pictures come on over. Will then just have a new one installed and fogmod. bob
====
Build date of the vehicle or the engine? They are quite a bit different. Both the 06s I am familar with had an engine build if April 05. Read the thread and see how to decypher the code on the block stamped above the OPDA.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 07:57 AM   #2405
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Mine is a 05 rubicon... it does have the s in the 8th vin# ,which was part of the orignal. looked for the engine code but the eyes are not as good as they used to be did see 5 6mx15 but don't think that is it. I have read the complete thread and thank all who supported it. By the way has anyone heard of a product called IXL? Its an additive that is supposed to penetrate the metal where after so many miles the engine can run a time without any oil. bobistheoilguy had a write up on it
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Unread 12-08-2011, 11:00 PM   #2406
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I revised my idea, basically involves using the cup itself to as the oil source, drilling a couples of holes from the cup into the reservoir.



Any commments, ideas, suggestions?
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Unread 12-09-2011, 12:05 AM   #2407
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I like it. Since you already did the rest of the mod it should work. Unless you end up sealing the cap you wouldn’t necessarily need the filler in the cap. Besides you pretty much have to remove the cap to check the oil level.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 05:28 AM   #2408
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Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
I revised my idea, basically involves using the cup itself to as the oil source, drilling a couples of holes from the cup into the reservoir. Any commments, ideas, suggestions?
Do it! Post pics and let us know the results. A little messy, and I think I would avoid the fill cap, but otherwise a good alternative considering the difficulty of finding an oil cup. Great Paint skills too.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 06:30 AM   #2409
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Haha thanks, the diagram skills are to make up for my lack of verbal explanation skills.

I'll give it a shot this weekend if I can find time. I think I will indeed avoid the fill cap because I don't know how brittle the cap material is. I'll just have to put anti-seize or something on the scews to make it easier to take them out. Being in the rust belt, everything that can possibly seize, does.

This design was mostly for the purpose of recirculating the oil instead of having it drip out. which reminds me, I'll also need to plug up the holes at the bottom of the cup.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 07:37 AM   #2410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
I revised my idea, basically involves using the cup itself to as the oil source, drilling a couples of holes from the cup into the reservoir.



Any commments, ideas, suggestions?
that looks great,my only worry woould be oil getting on the sensor,am I wrong?I love the idea,I would just add a barrier between the top of oil and sensor but of course this would render the fill cap useless,,,,but would be worth pulling cover and lifting barrier to add oil.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 08:45 AM   #2411
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I believe people have reported no problems even with the sensor head submerged in oil.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 09:34 AM   #2412
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What about the upper oil seal? Could you slowly leak oil into crank case and over fill it?
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Unread 12-09-2011, 09:43 AM   #2413
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Originally Posted by Brainwashed2566 View Post
What about the upper oil seal? Could you slowly leak oil into crank case and over fill it?
Has this been an issue with previous oil-based mods?
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Unread 12-09-2011, 10:34 AM   #2414
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As to oil seeping down past the seal, that was my primary concern but in questioning dproctor he wasn't having an issue so I went forward & like him I haven't had had issues either. Since flying bosom dissected his old OPDA I see that the seal in there is a regular automotive oil seal & don’t think it will normally be a problem. Since Willy did his I think there are just 3 of us trying oil in this fashion so there isn’t a lot of data.



I would say that besides sealing the holes in the bottom (a given), grease the drill to avoid getting aluminum shavings in the oil reservoir when you drill through for the drain back passage(s). See how Willy did that on the first page.

Very good idea to use anti-seize on the threads. Always a good idea with threads into aluminum.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 11:01 AM   #2415
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Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
I believe people have reported no problems even with the sensor head submerged in oil.
thank you,fantastic idea....
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