2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 159 - JeepForum.com

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post #2371 of 5452 Old 12-04-2011, 06:32 PM
efm-7
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Rubi4MyMrs - Oh I know, I was looking at his list and I was checking my usual vendors as McMaster does not appear to ship to Canada. I cannot source ANY of those locally.

Willydigger - I may indeed need someone to send me these. Obviously I will pay for the parts + shipping + add a little extra for the hassle. However, before I go that route, I would like to gather some thoughts and opinions on using a reservoir like the one I posted a picture of. I'm sure I can find a way to use a hose to connect that reservoir to the hole where the zerk once was. lol

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post #2372 of 5452 Old 12-04-2011, 07:31 PM
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Before you decide on the reservoir pictured, read post #876 in this thread. He had issues of too much overflow because the oil level was higher than the top of the top bushing (my opinion). When mounting any oil container the height is an important consideration. As both Willy & I have found, oil travels up the bushing even when the level is below the bushing. That being said, I think any new ideas are worth trying.
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post #2373 of 5452 Old 12-04-2011, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Before you decide on the reservoir pictured, read post #876 in this thread. He had issues of too much overflow because the oil level was higher than the top of the top bushing (my opinion). When mounting any oil container the height is an important consideration. As both Willy & I have found, oil travels up the bushing even when the level is below the bushing. That being said, I think any new ideas are worth trying.
I thought about this, and thought maybe draining the target wheel cup into a catch can might remedy the overflow issue. What I'm not too sure of is how quickly the oil will drain out. If I have to refill it every month, no big deal. If I have to refill it every week, that could get annoying
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post #2374 of 5452 Old 12-04-2011, 09:46 PM
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SO, I received my first official half second "laughing monkey" sound Saturday morning. It was buur cold, 33'ish degrees.

I brought her to the dealer and they stated they weren't able to reproduce the noise. So nothing they could do, dealers don't care! I did check and the OPDA and CAM are both covered under the CPO warranty.

...yah so when the noise happens again.....i'm going to keep driving it all the way to the dealer and hope the engine goes boom boom. Yah, drop her off, please fix, here's my $150 deductible...see ya bU bye.

Only issue, CPO warranty is up in March, d'oooh!

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post #2375 of 5452 Old 12-04-2011, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusco
SO, I received my first official half second "laughing monkey" sound Saturday morning. It was buur cold, 33'ish degrees.

I brought her to the dealer and they stated they weren't able to reproduce the noise. So nothing they could do, dealers don't care! I did check and the OPDA and CAM are both covered under the CPO warranty.

...yah so when the noise happens again.....i'm going to keep driving it all the way to the dealer and hope the engine goes boom boom. Yah, drop her off, please fix, here's my $150 deductible...see ya bU bye.

Only issue, CPO warranty is up in March, d'oooh!
Pull it and inspect it now. Check specifically for binding of the shaft and excessive cam gear wear. LM will never last until you get to the dealer as it goes away within moments of initial cold start.

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post #2376 of 5452 Old 12-04-2011, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Pull it and inspect it now. Check specifically for binding of the shaft and excessive cam gear wear. LM will never last until you get to the dealer as it goes away within moments of initial cold start.
I had dealer pull OPDA, spent the $80 for them to do so. Tech stated no "excessive" wear on the OPDA or CAM gear. If the engine blows Jeep can't say I didn't try to prevent engine damage.

Exact words off dealer service ticket. "pulled OPDA per customer found no excessive wear on OPDA or CAM. Checked and adjusted cam/crank difference. Now at .40 - .50 degrees.

I also had them pull the OPDA back in July during some warranty repairs. The tech came back then and said also he found no "excessive" wear.

So I tried...then again if the engine does blow, I'll just a new CAM with the same bad OPDA design loooool.

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post #2377 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 04:00 AM
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I have been reading this thread for a few months now and have a couple of questions.Number one,is evryone sure that the seal in the middle is preventing lubrication to the top bushing?If this is the case why not remove the seal and machine a bushing for the top that can hold the seal at the top?There is more than enough room.Number two,has anyone thought of or tried adapting the new top to the old style bottom?I feel this can be done with a adapter coupling machined to fit over the old style bottom after being cut and fitting the new top into the adapter bushing,Is anyone else thinking along these lines or even thinking of machining a new shaft housing that could be fitted onto the top portion?Am I screwed up even thinking along these lines.....thank you,and thank you all so much for your info,I removed mine at 60,000 and found excessive gear wear,installed a new one and will be ordering another new one to do the modifications on,I am also looking around for a couple of older units to get some meausurments and try making some adapters and upper bushings with a lip at the top to hold the seal,i mean heck it extends far enough out of the housing and has enough room to leave a good size lip to machine a spot for a seal.....again,have I just had to much coffee or does anyone else think like this?
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post #2378 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 04:23 AM
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Personally, I was thinking of gathering some electrical engineering friends, hooking up both the old OPDA and new OPDA to a scope, and coming up with a way to "convert" the old signal into the new signal
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post #2379 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fusco View Post
I had dealer pull OPDA, spent the $80 for them to do so. Tech stated no "excessive" wear on the OPDA or CAM gear. If the engine blows Jeep can't say I didn't try to prevent engine damage.
Did you see the wear for yourself? Did you spin the shaft and feel for resistance?

I purposefully left the Jeep at the dealer overnight so they could here it in the morning. I had already pulled and inspected it and knew it was binding.

Waiting for my engine to blow up because the dealer said everything was okay is not something I would do. It's rare for the dealer to help at all. Why wouldn't you buy a new OPDA and install it? It is $120 and easy (SO easy) to do I don't understand why someone who has symptoms of failure wouldn't do it. Even if you can't FogMod it, you can at least buy time.
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post #2380 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by paulpa View Post
...Number one,is evryone sure that the seal in the middle is preventing lubrication to the top bushing?If this is the case why not remove the seal and machine a bushing for the top that can hold the seal at the top?...
Number two,has anyone thought of or tried adapting the new top to the old style bottom?I feel this can be done with a adapter coupling machined to fit over the old style bottom after being cut and fitting the new top into the adapter bushing,Is anyone else thinking along these lines or even thinking of machining a new shaft housing that could be fitted onto the top portion?
This thread primarily was for a quick, reasonable easy, and cost effective solution to the upper bushing wear/lube problem. As time has gone by the collection of us have experimented with different applications.

Machining a new seal for the upper bushing and making that mod adds a level of difficulty to most of us. I encourage you to try, but I wouldn't invest too much time and money if it becomes too difficult since an oil cup or grease fitting will ultimately give you the same result.

Making a Frankenstein of the two OPDA's wouldn't be a good solution. The lower bushing does have some scoring, but I don't think it's a main contributor to failure. The upper bushing and what ever causes the gear wear are the problems. I don't think either of those is addressed by swapping heads.
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post #2381 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7
Personally, I was thinking of gathering some electrical engineering friends, hooking up both the old OPDA and new OPDA to a scope, and coming up with a way to "convert" the old signal into the new signal
I like this idea!!

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post #2382 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 08:19 AM
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I thought about this some more and I realized it won't work because of the amount of rotation needed to get a point of reference
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post #2383 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by paulpa View Post
I have been reading this thread for a few months now and have a couple of questions.Number one,is evryone sure that the seal in the middle is preventing lubrication to the top bushing?If this is the case why not remove the seal and machine a bushing for the top that can hold the seal at the top?
And a perhaps more reasonable question, given that some folks have run their entire OPDA filled with oil by merely sealing the top with the same black silicone used to seal the diffs, is: who cares if oil gets past the bushing into the top? Has anybody tried this to see whether a huge amount of oil makes it up there if that seal is taken out?

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post #2384 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
This thread primarily was for a quick, reasonable easy, and cost effective solution to the upper bushing wear/lube problem. As time has gone by the collection of us have experimented with different applications.

Machining a new seal for the upper bushing and making that mod adds a level of difficulty to most of us. I encourage you to try, but I wouldn't invest too much time and money if it becomes too difficult since an oil cup or grease fitting will ultimately give you the same result.

Making a Frankenstein of the two OPDA's wouldn't be a good solution. The lower bushing does have some scoring, but I don't think it's a main contributor to failure. The upper bushing and what ever causes the gear wear are the problems. I don't think either of those is addressed by swapping heads.
thank you...
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post #2385 of 5452 Old 12-05-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by badtux View Post
And a perhaps more reasonable question, given that some folks have run their entire OPDA filled with oil by merely sealing the top with the same black silicone used to seal the diffs, is: who cares if oil gets past the bushing into the top? Has anybody tried this to see whether a huge amount of oil makes it up there if that seal is taken out?
like this idea...
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