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JEEP Gear Change Packages From ROCKRIDGE 4WD. We Are DIFFAlloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail

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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:04 PM   #2296
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillR View Post
I don't have any noise from mine at all, but I ordered a new unit to Fogmod and replace. Because it's a new one, I need to have the dealer install it?
Why is TDC required for a new one but not when reinstalling the current one? What's different?
It isn't. Sharpie will work both ways. I've installed new and old with the Sharpie and zero issues.

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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:10 PM   #2297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
It isn't. Sharpie will work both ways. I've installed new and old with the Sharpie and zero issues.
Huh?
Then why this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
New one requires TDC.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:11 PM   #2298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Willy, that gear looks great. I don’t remember, how bad was the old one when you replaced it with this OPDA?

Monitor oil coming over the top of the bushing. I got a little almost immediately. ...
My stock OPDA was never disassembled. I was still "under warranty" so not knowing any better I took it to the dealer and had to fight with the dealer to replace it. They tried "it's electrical" and I continued to argue. They eventually agreed for a $100 deductible. The symptoms were laughing monkey and a binding shaft. I pulled it prior to taking it to the dealer to see for myself. The gear was shot and the cam shaft looked worn too. This was around 60K miles.

Oil on the top means it's working! I'm okay with a little cleaning.

I will secure a half bushing and try to reduce the length. If I remember right yours didn't have a tapered thread and that's the reason for the o-ring and support?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:16 PM   #2299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillR View Post
Huh?
Then why this?


The new one comes with an alignment pin so it could be argued it easier to TDC. I would disagree. I think TDC gives a false sense of security. You can just as easily screw up timing with TDC as with the sharpie.

There are a few thinks to keep in mind. There is backlash in the gear, push the gear to where it is tight and then mark. Try pushing the gear in the opposite direction and remark on the housing. This will provide a small window that you know you have to be in when reinstalling. Also be sure not to wipe away the sharpie. Degreaser will take it right off. Generally you are not degreasing the target wheel and if you are consistent with marking the center of the sensor it shouldn't matter.

Watch the video. It is that easy. Actually the video shows some complications. It easier than the video most of the time.

I have never used TDC. I was helping another member install his and he used TDC. All other times I've used the Sharpie. It is effective and accurate. Some will say you need a scan tool and if it's not perfect it's not right. Again, I disagree. My Jeep runs fine.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:17 PM   #2300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Two separate issues. The FogMod is the easy fix. Finding the culprit for the wear issue is the mystery.
Man I'm sick to my stomach, So what is my answer to my chewed up gear? Replace? Just the gear or whole assembly?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:27 PM   #2301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jutgin View Post
Man I'm sick to my stomach, So what is my answer to my chewed up gear? Replace? Just the gear or whole assembly?
Take a deep breath. Most of us get upset at first. After a year things calm down.

My advice is to purchase a completely new assembly. Dodge-wholesale.com. Link on first page.

FogMod new unit. Either with grease or oil cup. This will prevent binding (a known issue). Link and specs on first page.

Change oil to Mobil 1 5w40 TDT or Valvoline VR1. I can't speak personally for VR1, but many credible people here recommend it. I can say for certain Mobil TDT works for me.

Change oil as recommended. Keep 6 full quarts. Check the OPDA as your paranoia requires (1-2 year is my paranoia level).

If you don't feel comfortable with the FogMod send me a PM and I'll help you through it. Messing with engine components can get scary and you don't want to mess this up considering your working with aluminum.

Good luck. Most reference info is on the first page. I try to update as I get more info.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:37 PM   #2302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Take a deep breath. Most of us get upset at first. After a year things calm down.

My advice is to purchase a completely new assembly. Dodge-wholesale.com. Link on first page.

FogMod new unit. Either with grease or oil cup. This will prevent binding (a known issue). Link and specs on first page.

Change oil to Mobil 1 5w40 TDT or Valvoline VR1. I can't speak personally for VR1, but many credible people here recommend it. I can say for certain Mobil TDT works for me.

Change oil as recommended. Keep 6 full quarts. Check the OPDA as your paranoia requires (1-2 year is my paranoia level).

If you don't feel comfortable with the FogMod send me a PM and I'll help you through it. Messing with engine components can get scary and you don't want to mess this up considering your working with aluminum.

Good luck. Most reference info is on the first page. I try to update as I get more info.
Ok, deep breath followed by hyperventilation!
I will do everything you recommended.
Just to clarify, a new unit without doing TDC just needs to be lined up how I marked my old unit that came out?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 05:18 PM   #2303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jutgin View Post
Ok, deep breath followed by hyperventilation!
I will do everything you recommended.
Just to clarify, a new unit without doing TDC just needs to be lined up how I marked my old unit that came out?
It's that easy. Match the marks. My first time I had a friend double check everything so i had someone to blame!
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:42 PM   #2304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
My stock OPDA was never disassembled. I was still "under warranty" so not knowing any better I took it to the dealer and had to fight with the dealer to replace it. They tried "it's electrical" and I continued to argue. They eventually agreed for a $100 deductible. The symptoms were laughing monkey and a binding shaft. I pulled it prior to taking it to the dealer to see for myself. The gear was shot and the cam shaft looked worn too. This was around 60K miles.

Oil on the top means it's working! I'm okay with a little cleaning.

I will secure a half bushing and try to reduce the length. If I remember right yours didn't have a tapered thread and that's the reason for the o-ring and support?

So was your cam replaced along with the OPDA?

I agree with oil getting to the top. It is amazing how well & quickly it travels up the bushing.

Yes, at the time I only found a fitting with a straight thread. I used thread sealer & the O ring. One of the reasons I added that support piece was to be sure it wouldn't back out.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:47 PM   #2305
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No. The cam is still stock.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:59 PM   #2306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
It's that easy. Match the marks. My first time I had a friend double check everything so i had someone to blame!
So after marking old OPDA, transfer marks on new one and hope for the best, am I missing anything. Thanks
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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:05 PM   #2307
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Simple as it sounds, though getting it precise can take some fine fidgeting. Some get a CEL after the replacement and need to really tweak the adjustment in teeny-tiny increments. If you have any trouble with it, look for Rubi4mymrs post(s) early (first page or two) in this thread for fine-tuning it. Here's a recent short thread by a fellow who some frustrations that I think (hope) he got got worked out stuck-road-need-help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by popeyesides View Post
So after marking old OPDA, transfer marks on new one and hope for the best, am I missing anything. Thanks
To use TDC or marks can be debated endlessly. Bottom line both work. IF YOU GET A CODE IT IS NOT THE END OF THE WORLD. If anyone is afraid they won’t be able to clear it then I personally recommend starting over & to do this I would say that the only true reference point you have is to find TDC & go from there. It is a little more confusing using marks when replacing with a new unit because the wheel-to-housing position is what matters because the housing will not necessarily go back to the mark on the block. That is not always understood by first timers. I have talked more than one person through the process with the info below.

There are 2 CEL conditions that throw the P0016 code. If you get it as it warms up to about 160 degrees you are pretty close. If you get it as soon as you start a cold engine, you are not as close. Either way start again at TDC (It is easier to see the TDC marks if you remove the belt.) & reset the OPDA by pinning it (don't remove it, just turn it to get the pin in). It is quite sensitive. A screw driver leaves some room for error. An allen wrench as big as will fit into the hole is a little better. Not as good as the original pin but should get you close enough. If you still get the code. Disconnect the battery to reset. While it is disconnected, mark your position housing to block & loosen the OPDA bolt SLIGHTLY & tap the housing a small amount in one direction. Retighten the bolt & re-connect the battery & start it. It is easy to go too far when moving the OPDA so go slow. If it doesn’t improve after a couple tries in that direction, go back to your mark & start slowly in the other direction. If you get to the point that the code only comes on when warm, you are very close & it takes only slight movement to get it right. Of course that means you have to let it cool down a lot between tries.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:12 PM   #2308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
No. The cam is still stock.
So with such a good pattern on your gear riding on the old cam makes me feel a lot better & pretty much dismisses the idea that the only way to get proper wear on the new gear to replace the cam.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 10:40 PM   #2309
cologc46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
The new one comes with an alignment pin so it could be argued it easier to TDC. I would disagree. I think TDC gives a false sense of security. You can just as easily screw up timing with TDC as with the sharpie.

There are a few thinks to keep in mind. There is backlash in the gear, push the gear to where it is tight and then mark. Try pushing the gear in the opposite direction and remark on the housing. This will provide a small window that you know you have to be in when reinstalling. Also be sure not to wipe away the sharpie. Degreaser will take it right off. Generally you are not degreasing the target wheel and if you are consistent with marking the center of the sensor it shouldn't matter.

Watch the video. It is that easy. Actually the video shows some complications. It easier than the video most of the time.

I have never used TDC. I was helping another member install his and he used TDC. All other times I've used the Sharpie. It is effective and accurate. Some will say you need a scan tool and if it's not perfect it's not right. Again, I disagree. My Jeep runs fine.
I followed willy's instructions from page one, including watching the video a couple times. I put marks on my old OPDA. I pulled the alignment pin on the new OPDA. Then, visually matched the position of my new, fogmodded, OPDA to the marks on the old unit. Slid it in, and bolted it down. It worked first time and has worked fine all summer. Its was not hard for me, and I am just a shade tree mechanic. As for the fogmod, I had someone do it for me, since I dont have the tools to do it myself.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 07:47 AM   #2310
BillR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
See post #8. There are members who will do it for you, too.
Who are these members...?
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