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Unread 11-06-2011, 03:45 PM   #2221
ChicagoRod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleshEater View Post
Anybody ever strip the torx screw on the cap? Any suggestions for an easy way to get it out without drilling?

I've never seen an "easy out" for a torx...only for sockets.
Try "lightly" tapping on the back of the torx socket and apply lots of downward pressure while turning. I had a stripped head and gave it that try before breaking out the drill. Maybe I just got lucky.

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Unread 11-06-2011, 03:56 PM   #2222
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I drained out my one month old ZR1 oil today and replaced it with M1 5W20 with a zinc additive from O'Reiley's.

http://www.hyperlube.com/Zinc-Replac...ditive-c7.html

The ZR1 gave me intermittent knocking and valve train noise. The other combination has in the past and is working great. It's a bit of a bite to pop for $18 bottle of additive but if my valves are quiet, I can assume my OPDA is getting some better lube as well.
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Unread 11-06-2011, 06:26 PM   #2223
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So after having a new squeek develop on cold mornings, i finally decided that it was time to pull my unit. I have pinpointed the squeek to a ujoint or bearing though. Today i did some work on the jeep and inspected my OPDA while in the garage. Everything seems normal. Even gear wear, little to no wear on the camshaft gear. Only concern was the fact that there are 2 holes on the underside of the target wheel housing. On the inside of the housing, there was a decent amount of black(what looked like to me) greasy mud slung about. I blew it out with an air hose, threw some vaseline on the existing gasket and reinstalled. I do have a slight tap that has been around since 12K miles, and im currently at 62K. I run Amsoil XL synthetic oil, 10W-30 and change every 6-7K miles. Next round I plan to add half a quart or so of Lucas additive to see if i can quiet her down.

Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread with help. Knowing what to look for really helped me out.
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Unread 11-06-2011, 07:05 PM   #2224
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I ended up getting them with a T-25 (as I believe was the proper fit) and a set of vice grips with teeth on the end. Only loosened them...will probably replace the whole unit this Friday when I'm off (see how it goes).




EDIT I have one more question...which way are you supposed to rotate the motor? If you're standing in front of the Jeep looking at it is normal rotation to the right (clock wise?)? I'm going to try and line it up using the TDC method but also following it up with a sharpie marker.

Thanks!
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Unread 11-07-2011, 02:20 PM   #2225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleshEater View Post
EDIT I have one more question...which way are you supposed to rotate the motor? If you're standing in front of the Jeep looking at it is normal rotation to the right (clock wise?)? I'm going to try and line it up using the TDC method but also following it up with a sharpie marker.

Thanks!
I was wondering the same thing, and can it be done without taking the rad fan off? It's a tight squeeze
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Unread 11-07-2011, 02:28 PM   #2226
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I've never done TDC, but the instructions on the first page say to turn the same as normal rotation.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 04:07 PM   #2227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleshEater View Post
I ended up getting them with a T-25 (as I believe was the proper fit) and a set of vice grips with teeth on the end. Only loosened them...will probably replace the whole unit this Friday when I'm off (see how it goes).




EDIT I have one more question...which way are you supposed to rotate the motor? If you're standing in front of the Jeep looking at it is normal rotation to the right (clock wise?)? I'm going to try and line it up using the TDC method but also following it up with a sharpie marker.

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by efm-7 View Post
I was wondering the same thing, and can it be done without taking the rad fan off? It's a tight squeeze
You both have manual trans ... so I saw this tip earlier in the thread:

Get a helper for muscle or observation, put it in 6th, push the Jeep, engine turns ... stop when it is lined up. Take it out of gear and roll it back where you want it.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 04:19 PM   #2228
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I was wondering the same thing, and can it be done without taking the rad fan off? It's a tight squeeze
No need to pull the fan; there's plenty of room.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 04:56 PM   #2229
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It is much easier to see the timing mark if you remove the belt. Mostly you want to line up the OPDA's wheel with the hole in the housing. That should put the engine at TDC. If you are going to use a non-factory alignment pin get something that fits in there as snug as possible. I like an allen wrench. I find that it is easier to remove the pin before pulling the unit. That way you can pull it straight out keeping it in the 4 o'clock position & mark the wheel position after it has rotated. When you go to re-install it turn the wheel to the mark, hold the housing in the 4 o'clock position & drop it straight in. Then insert the pin to position the housing before locking it down.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 07:28 PM   #2230
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I've never done TDC, but the instructions on the first page say to turn the same as normal rotation.

The more and more that question is elaborated on the more and more I don't want to piss with TDC.

I'm an artist so I should be able to transfer the marks rather well from simply looking and compairing. At least enough to get it damn close.
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Unread 11-07-2011, 11:03 PM   #2231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleshEater

The more and more that question is elaborated on the more and more I don't want to piss with TDC.

I'm an artist so I should be able to transfer the marks rather well from simply looking and compairing. At least enough to get it damn close.
It was really easy. I marked up the old one before I removed it, then transferred the marks to the new one. It went in easy, an has been running fine since.

I don't think you need to mess with TDC. Just line the new one up the same as the old one. I took a picture with the marks before I pulled it, just in case I needed to reference it later.
image-2060833547.jpg  
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Unread 11-08-2011, 08:19 AM   #2232
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No need to do the TDC thing, but it is best to do it. I like using the pin in hole deal to line things up. You can turn the engine over with a wrench on the alternator. The belt will want to slip so you turn your wrench with one hand and apply extra pressure to the belt with the other. I found it pretty easy. There's not that much gear lash there so you can turn it either way, but you want to go righty-tighty as to not loosen the alternator nut.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 10:49 AM   #2233
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Originally Posted by ChicagoRod View Post
I drained out my one month old ZR1 oil today and replaced it with M1 5W20 with a zinc additive from O'Reiley's.

http://www.hyperlube.com/Zinc-Replac...ditive-c7.html

The ZR1 gave me intermittent knocking and valve train noise. The other combination has in the past and is working great. It's a bit of a bite to pop for $18 bottle of additive but if my valves are quiet, I can assume my OPDA is getting some better lube as well.
That sucks since I just spent $73 for 12qts of this oil. I did switch to this and haven't had any problems yet, not too keen about switching to something else really. Guess time will tell on my noises and hopefully the ZR1 will work for me. Oh my milage is 59k at the moment.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 11:32 AM   #2234
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That sucks since I just spent $73 for 12qts of this oil. I did switch to this and haven't had any problems yet, not too keen about switching to something else really. Guess time will tell on my noises and hopefully the ZR1 will work for me. Oh my milage is 59k at the moment.
I have a knock with every oil change. Sometimes during cold days I'll start with a knock. I turn everything off and restart and it's fine.

I had it with 5w40, 5w30, and 10w30. It doesn't bother me at all. I plan to continue with 5w40.
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Unread 11-09-2011, 12:14 PM   #2235
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Mine sounded like hell when I purchased it...immediately put Pennzoil 10w-30 High Mileage in and now it purrs like a kitten...next oil change however will be with Mobil 1 High Mileage (1,000 PPM ZDDP) w/zinc additive (1/3 of a bottle). I expect it will run just as queitly as it does now but only time will tell.
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