2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 145 - JeepForum.com
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post #2161 of 5421 Old 09-29-2011, 10:06 AM
JPcpa
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Yeah, the 2004 LJs were 4 speed auto only. Not crazy about it, the short auto lever feels strange in a Wrangler. Feel like I need to hit the clutch too. Guess I'll get used to it, and the autos seem to hold up pretty well.

I really liked the 6 speed/4.10s in my '05.


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post #2162 of 5421 Old 10-02-2011, 08:11 AM
RCHavok797
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After a few weeks of having a code p0016 and replacing both the cam and crankshaft position sensors, I finally pulled this opda last weekend. The gear on the end had a lot of wear on it so I finally found the problem. The chck engine light started off being intermittent and then kept staying on longer and longer. I got the new assembly installed yesterday, cleared the code, and drove it around all day yesterday with no code coming back. I can once again go last 3500rpm and the Jeep just feels smoother now. I plan on taking the old assembly a part and fixing it up.

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post #2163 of 5421 Old 10-06-2011, 07:44 PM
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81,411 miles and this is what mine looked like . Not the worst one I have seen , but it had quite a bit wear . Many thanks to Wilydigger for the video link and the info here , it made for a nice easy install .

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post #2164 of 5421 Old 10-11-2011, 11:12 AM
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Quick question

Does the new OPDA unit come with a new top cover and hold down bolts? If not, what size are they (standard bolt head please, no torx!). Reason I ask, I stripped one of the torx heads out getting it off to check my unit, and had to vice grip it back on.
I'm going to order a replacement unit, and would like to have new cover bolts if i need them when it gets here.
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post #2165 of 5421 Old 10-11-2011, 11:13 AM
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Yes it does.
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post #2166 of 5421 Old 10-12-2011, 07:45 PM
G Beasley
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Mine came with new screws and a top , I think all of the ones from Mopar do .

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post #2167 of 5421 Old 10-17-2011, 04:05 PM
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Well I ordered my replacement OPDA today. I don't think I'll fogmod it when it gets here, just replace, and check every oil change. If I have issues, then I'll get another new one and fogmod. My cam gear still looks ok, and the factory unit has lasted me over 55k miles.
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post #2168 of 5421 Old 10-17-2011, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by footypaul View Post
Well I ordered my replacement OPDA today. I don't think I'll fogmod it when it gets here, just replace, and check every oil change. If I have issues, then I'll get another new one and fogmod. My cam gear still looks ok, and the factory unit has lasted me over 55k miles.
Why are you replacing the OPDA? To avoid rehashing the debate in this thread, I'll refer you to posts 34-43 here opda-concern

Suffice it to say that the jury is divided as to when it's appropriate to replace it. As I've said before: Be informed and judge for yourself.

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post #2169 of 5421 Old 10-18-2011, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by footypaul View Post
Well I ordered my replacement OPDA today. I don't think I'll fogmod it when it gets here, just replace, and check every oil change. If I have issues, then I'll get another new one and fogmod. My cam gear still looks ok, and the factory unit has lasted me over 55k miles.
The mileage logic is flawed. There are reports of mileage failures from as early as 13-15K. If you have the skill and tools to do the FogMod, just do it and be done with it. If the existing OPDA isn't having problems, disassemble it, clean it, and FogMod it. Don't wait for it to fail and don't expect a new one to last 55K. It might, but why take the chance?

Also most new OPDA's that I've seen and that have been reported here have no lubrication from the factory. You will be set up to fail from the start.
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post #2170 of 5421 Old 10-18-2011, 12:55 PM
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Any updates from the aftermarket folks that were working on a permanent fix for this crap? Crown, Skinny Pedal, anyone...hello?

"Science will win in a battle with religion because it works." -Stephen Hawking
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post #2171 of 5421 Old 10-19-2011, 04:43 AM
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Any updates on the grease. I too did the fogmod and bought the MS33 grease. Even built a dedicated grease gun. I did change my grease fitting to a standard style zerk. Now the grease issue:
I store my grease guns in a plastic tool box laying on their side, in the garage. I've greased the OPDA a few times, usually every oill change. Last time I greased the OPDA there was "oil" dripping out the bottom of the grease gun. Not unusual as I have seen this oil "separation" with other greases over the years. Yesterday, I pulled the OPDA and "tested" the grease gun to assure it had fresh clean grease at the tip. It would not emit any grease, thought the tube was empty. Opened the gun and found very stiff, very dry, very sticky MS33. Far thicker and stickier than peanut butter. Still had about 1/2 tube of grease, but I would not use it as I did not consider it as having any lubrication properties. I opened the "spare" tube of MS33. Still nice and soft, still had that characteristic smell, cleaned the gun, put the new tube in the gun, flushed out the old sticky MS33 from the hose, greased the OPDA. Put the gun away.
Anybody else have similar events with the MS33? I looked back at my records, first modded OPDA and opened the first tube in Dec 2010. Maybe I am expecting a too long shelf life after opening the tube?
Comments?
BTW - little to no tooth wear in 10K miles. Using MS33 and M1 0-40 Euro due to high ZDDP levels

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post #2172 of 5421 Old 10-19-2011, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffjeep1 View Post
Any updates on the grease. I too did the fogmod and bought the MS33 grease. Even built a dedicated grease gun. I did change my grease fitting to a standard style zerk. Now the grease issue:
I store my grease guns in a plastic tool box laying on their side, in the garage. I've greased the OPDA a few times, usually every oill change. Last time I greased the OPDA there was "oil" dripping out the bottom of the grease gun. Not unusual as I have seen this oil "separation" with other greases over the years. Yesterday, I pulled the OPDA and "tested" the grease gun to assure it had fresh clean grease at the tip. It would not emit any grease, thought the tube was empty. Opened the gun and found very stiff, very dry, very sticky MS33. Far thicker and stickier than peanut butter. Still had about 1/2 tube of grease, but I would not use it as I did not consider it as having any lubrication properties. I opened the "spare" tube of MS33. Still nice and soft, still had that characteristic smell, cleaned the gun, put the new tube in the gun, flushed out the old sticky MS33 from the hose, greased the OPDA. Put the gun away.
Anybody else have similar events with the MS33? I looked back at my records, first modded OPDA and opened the first tube in Dec 2010. Maybe I am expecting a too long shelf life after opening the tube?
Comments?
BTW - little to no tooth wear in 10K miles. Using MS33 and M1 0-40 Euro due to high ZDDP levels
Hey great news on the gear wear.

For me I use a small grease gun and store the rest in a ziplok bag. I don't leave the tube in. I little more work and a little wasteful, but there is no separation. I bought my tube last fall so it's been a year with no issues.

I would also love to hear about successful alternatives to the 33MS. Has anyone tried something else with comments?
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post #2173 of 5421 Old 10-19-2011, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Rubi4MyMrs, what oil are you using for the top bushing? I don't remember is you told me already. I'd like to link it to the oil cup for the first page. If not regular motor oil, please list your reasoning.
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post #2174 of 5421 Old 10-19-2011, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Rubi4MyMrs, what oil are you using for the top bushing? I don't remember is you told me already. I'd like to link it to the oil cup for the first page. If not regular motor oil, please list your reasoning.
I'm using VR1 10-30 Valvoline, same as in the engine.
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post #2175 of 5421 Old 10-20-2011, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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To the FogModders. I got an email recently inquiring about greasing frequency and amount. I was unsure how to answer so I told him what I do, but thought it would be a good idea to get a general consensus of what we do currently.

What I did initially was use a poor grease choice and pumped it until the OPDA was tight. I spun it by hand until it relaxed a bit and then installed it. At around my first oil change, I pumped 2-3 pumps in while running and hot. After inspection I wasn't happy with the results and assumed too much grease. When I installed the Aeroshell 33MS I pumped it full again. Same procedure different grease. Again I wasn't happy. On the last installation I used one pump and haven't touched it since. This was early this spring.

Currently my suggestion included the following:
1. Warm up engine to operating temperature
2. Pump 1 squirt of grease (this is from a mini grease gun 3oz)
3. Do this twice a year

I really don't think it needs a pump every oil change. This is also assuming daily driver 10-12K a year.

Unfortunately I don't have any long term data, but I wouldn't recommend too much grease since it will hydraulically load the shaft and make it very hard to spin. Normally it would take 4-5 pumps (again of the mini gun) to fill the entire reservoir so I would think 1 pump would be fine. Again this is why I recommend the needle attachment. It is difficult to over pump with the needle since excess with push out from the ball check.

Please let me know your schedule of greasing and amount and any extra input you may have. I'd like to get as much info before updated the first page.
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