2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 132 - JeepForum.com

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post #1966 of 5452 Old 09-03-2011, 05:38 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Forgive me for asking but I've looked through this thread searching for your mod write-up and I'm coming up empty; if your mod is detailed here, could you provide a post #, please? The links in the alternate design section just bring me to the most recent page of posts.

As to the quote above, do you mean to say that pressure forces oil from area between the two bushings past the seal and into (and past) the upper bushing?
When I click here 1. Pressurized Oil for Upper Bushing it takes me to his post (876).

No oil from his mod to directed under the seal.

You can see from how his unit is turned that he drilled the upper bushing through the fill hole in the reservoir then attached the oil line there. Just as with my oil cup mod, the oil enters the bushing through the drilled hole & finds its way over the top of the upper bushing. Since his oil level is above the bushing oil is pushed (pressurized) by gravity. The OPDA seal needs to keep most, if not all, of the oil from going into the crankcase otherwise you would constantly be removing excess oil from the oil pan & adding to the OPDA “tank”.

I purposely used an oil cup to keep the oil level below the top of the upper bushing to avoid flooding the upper housing area. Even with oil well below that level, a small amount of oil gets over the top. My original write up is post #1050 Photos of the accumulated oil is in post #1867. It is not only pressure that causes the oil to rise.

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post #1967 of 5452 Old 09-03-2011, 06:12 PM
dproctor0715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Forgive me for asking but I've looked through this thread searching for your mod write-up and I'm coming up empty; if your mod is detailed here, could you provide a post #, please?
#876
Quote:
The links in the alternate design section just bring me to the most recent page of posts.
Does that to me as well. (?)

Quote:
As to the quote above, do you mean to say that pressure forces oil from area between the two bushings past the seal and into (and past) the upper bushing?
It is as Rubi4MyMrs described above. I believe the spinning of the shaft makes the oil naturally want to climb upward between the shaft and the bushing. And the fact that my "tank" is so high is what floods my housing and necessitates the sealing of the housing against leaks. Gravity ensures that oil is always available to the bushing as long as there's oil in the tank. The slight "pressurization' is simply a good/bad by-product of the tone wheel spinning in the oil inside the sealed-flooded housing. This is what causes the minimal amount of oil loss. But that's only when I really rev it hard. Which isn't to often in my world. The oil loss stated in my original write up was overstated because of my not understanding that we were filling the cup at the top of the housing with oil. Trust me Rubi's mod is better.
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post #1968 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 09:06 AM
rwh63
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a few questions:

1) i can't seem to remove the 2 torx screws. is this common, and is there an alternative method other than a star bit?

2) does the 2004 part with the lube channel fit in the 05-06?

3) if at 73k miles with no symptoms, if it ain't broke don't fix it?

4) even if the 05-06 part has a design error, are they all destined to eventually fail?
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post #1969 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwh63 View Post
a few questions:

1) i can't seem to remove the 2 torx screws. is this common, and is there an alternative method other than a star bit?

Doesn't seem to be a common problem. To avoid problems best to use correct bit.

2) does the 2004 part with the lube channel fit in the 05-06?

Not sure, but don't think so. I had mine (06) machined with a lube channel (may not really help) and did the fogMog, which I believe is essential.

3) if at 73k miles with no symptoms, if it ain't broke don't fix it?

Not worth the risk. At the very least check and if OK do FogMog; if not OK purchase new and do FogMod.

4) even if the 05-06 part has a design error, are they all destined to eventually fail?

Probably will fail....by and large that seems to be the experience: a failure or at least heading towards failure.
IMHO, it's really not worth the risk. At the very least check it...
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post #1970 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwh63 View Post
a few questions:

1) i can't seem to remove the 2 torx screws. is this common, and is there an alternative method other than a star bit?

2) does the 2004 part with the lube channel fit in the 05-06?

3) if at 73k miles with no symptoms, if it ain't broke don't fix it?

4) even if the 05-06 part has a design error, are they all destined to eventually fail?
They can be tight. Gotta work with it. The heads round out easily if you aren’t careful. Be sure to keep downward pressure as you turn them. If I remember correctly, I used a socket head torx bit &1/4" ratchet on mine. One guy had part of the aluminum housing break off. The hold down bolt is very tight also if it has never been removed.

The ’04 is completely different.

Your call on that. It MAY fail without warning or go 150k.

No one knows what causes some to fail while others (some would say most) to last.
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post #1971 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwh63 View Post
if at 73k miles with no symptoms, if it ain't broke don't fix it?
?
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post #1972 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 05:36 PM
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4) even if the 05-06 part has a design error, are they all destined to eventually fail?

Its a steel shaft with a steel bushing with no lubrication... Its designed to fail in my opinion... Some might take longer then others but thats a bad combination. Im a mechanic, work on high speed machinary(i make the lids to your beer cans!) that design baffles me
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post #1973 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JemLT1YJ View Post
Its a steel shaft with a steel bushing with no lubrication... Its designed to fail in my opinion... Some might take longer then others but thats a bad combination.
My sentiments exactly
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post #1974 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwh63 View Post
a few questions:

1) i can't seem to remove the 2 torx screws. is this common, and is there an alternative method other than a star bit?
i used T-25 to remove the two torx screws in my 06....T-20 is the wrong size. i almost stripped one of my torx screws with a T-20.
i hope this help.
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post #1975 of 5452 Old 09-05-2011, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JemLT1YJ View Post
4) that design baffles me
Understatement

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post #1976 of 5452 Old 09-06-2011, 11:11 AM
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thxs for the t25 tip!
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post #1977 of 5452 Old 09-06-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Understatement
I would like to find the engineer who had the bright idea of having the upper bushing extend past the top of the distributor rather than be sealed where it could receive lubrication from beneath, and flog him with a wet herring for a few hours while shouting "What were you thinking? What were you thinking? What were you thinking?!" Think the Monty Python fish slap skit, except extended .
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post #1978 of 5452 Old 09-06-2011, 07:56 PM
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I for one am glad I checked my OPDA even though I wasn't having any "symptoms". With the first look I had some gear wear but it didn't seem bad. Checked to see how free the shaft was spinning and discovered that it seemed to "hang up" at one point. Looked at the shaft when I removed it and found some evidence of galling and scoring on the shaft in the area where the upper bearing was. Bottom line is this was a time bomb but by checking it I discovered it in time. Ended up replacing with a new fog modded assy. Thanks to all who posted up and got my attention...
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post #1979 of 5452 Old 09-07-2011, 05:39 PM
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Over 95,000 views. Awesome job to all who contributed to this problem and offered us solutions to ensure the longevity of our Jeeps. It's almost time for another oil change for me. I'll pull my OPDA again to check the wear. May switch back to Mobil 1 TDT, currently using VR1

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post #1980 of 5452 Old 09-07-2011, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB
May switch back to Mobil 1 TDT, currently using VR1
Choose one and stick with it.

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