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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:06 PM   #181
Xlr8n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
What is the recommended change interval? 3,000 miles or is it more?
Not sure. You'd have to check the owners manual.

Using a full synthetic I change mine at 5K miles, but mine sees tons of highway miles as it's also my DD for the last 3 years. If it was heavily offroaded I'd cut that in half.

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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:08 PM   #182
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
Not sure. You'd have to check the owners manual.

Using a full synthetic I change mine at 5K miles, but mine sees tons of highway miles as it's also my DD for the last 3 years. If it was heavily offroaded I'd cut that in half.
I think I would agree with that. Three times a years sounds about right. Mine is mostly highway also.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:20 PM   #183
ChaseB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
Not sure. You'd have to check the owners manual.

Using a full synthetic I change mine at 5K miles, but mine sees tons of highway miles as it's also my DD for the last 3 years. If it was heavily offroaded I'd cut that in half.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I think I would agree with that. Three times a years sounds about right. Mine is mostly highway also.
Sounds good, I drive mine pretty much like an old lady so I'll mark it down for 5,000. This oil isn't cheap either $$$$
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:26 PM   #184
Xlr8n
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Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
Sounds good, I drive mine pretty much like an old lady so I'll mark it down for 5,000. This oil isn't cheap either $$$$
The downside to extended drain intervals is while the M1 synthetic oil stock itself doesn't breakdown like dino oils, the additive packages do become depleted over useage.
The only way to know for sure if the oil still has adequate levels of Zinc and Phosphate at 5k miles is to do an oil analysis on your specific vehicle. Second best option would be to check the oilguy's website to see how this particular oil is holding up on average for other users.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:33 PM   #185
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
The downside to extended drain intervals is while the M1 synthetic oil stock itself doesn't breakdown like dino oils, the additive packages do become depleted over useage.
The only way to know for sure if the oil still has adequate levels of Zinc and Phosphate at 5k miles is to do an oil analysis on your specific vehicle. Second best option would be to check the oilguy's website to see how this particular oil is holding up on average for other users.
Great idea on the oil analysis. Though we are teetering on being a little anal.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:35 PM   #186
ChaseB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
The downside to extended drain intervals is while the M1 synthetic oil stock itself doesn't breakdown like dino oils, the additive packages do become depleted over useage.
The only way to know for sure if the oil still has adequate levels of Zinc and Phosphate at 5k miles is to do an oil analysis on your specific vehicle. Second best option would be to check the oilguy's website to see how this particular oil is holding up on average for other users.
Second best option sounds good unless there is a lab or something I can send the oil too.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:36 PM   #187
Xlr8n
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Great idea on the oil analysis. Though we are teetering on being a little anal.
Yeah, I personally have never had one done, but it would give a decent indication of how far out you could run single fill.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:43 PM   #188
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I change mine once a year whether it needs it or not.
Better safe than sorry.

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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:48 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
Second best option sounds good unless there is a lab or something I can send the oil too.
You just mail in your sample to the lab.

Most labs will send you a free bottle to collect it in.

I've done a couple on my '06. So far, no high iron readings running synthetic 10W-30. Original OPDA with 67K on it. No noise or codes.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:53 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by jkp View Post
You just mail in your sample to the lab.

Most labs will send you a free bottle to collect it in.

I've done a couple on my '06. So far, no high iron readings running synthetic 10W-30. Original OPDA with 67K on it. No noise or codes.
How much does it cost?

Also if you haven't checked the OPDA, no noise or codes doesn't mean no problem. Some fail without warning. By the time you have noise or codes it may be too late.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:59 PM   #191
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$25 bucks or so.

Yeah, I need to pull it for a visual. However, if the gears are wearing, you will see a spike in the iron. Buddy of mine put a high volume oil pump in his Buick 350, and the iron shot up due to the pump putting too much load on the distributor gear.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:05 PM   #192
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Great idea on the oil analysis. Though we are teetering on being a little anal.
I managed a pretty good size fleet of trucks and industrial equipment back in the 90's. All this stuff was run under extreme conditions, lots of dirt/dust and very hot summers, 115 degrees was common. Most all of it was diesel equiptment that saw heavy load use 70% of the time and the rest at idle.

I did oil sampling on all the different fluids we ran, engine, trans, hydraulic, yada, yada from a independent outfit. (don't send it to oil companies!) What I found was we toss out a lot of very good quality oil in this country. The stuff lasts a lot longer than anyone would imagine. I ran mostly Shell oil products at that time and it stayed good for at least twice as long as I'd of figured. The additives and such stayed in the oil, but where we had an issue was contaminants getting into the oil. Not necessarily dirt/dust, but engine blow-by. It ended up I changed my oil change interval from 100-150 hours to 300 hours. 100 hours at 50 mph is 5,000 miles. 300 hours at 50 mph is 15,000 miles. The Rotella 15-45 engine oil dino oil I used still showed pretty good at 300 hours, but between 300 and 400 those contaminants started to show up good. On some of the machines I'd change filters between oil changes, and we ran Lubrifinders where we could.

I think 5,000 miles on a Jeep with a quality syn oil is a good interval.

BTW, yes I know we don't average 50 mph in our Jeeps for 5,000 miles. But with a lot of industrial equipment you do run at higher rpms/loads compared to a on-street type vehicle.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:38 PM   #193
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Oil changes every 5,000 miles when using synthetic seems over the top to me. I'd stick with chaning the filter @ 3,000 and probably stretch the oil change out past 5,000. I'm use to toyota engines though.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:52 PM   #194
bonza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
I managed a pretty good size fleet of trucks and industrial equipment back in the 90's. All this stuff was run under extreme conditions, lots of dirt/dust and very hot summers, 115 degrees was common. Most all of it was diesel equiptment that saw heavy load use 70% of the time and the rest at idle.

I did oil sampling on all the different fluids we ran, engine, trans, hydraulic, yada, yada from a independent outfit. (don't send it to oil companies!) What I found was we toss out a lot of very good quality oil in this country. The stuff lasts a lot longer than anyone would imagine. I ran mostly Shell oil products at that time and it stayed good for at least twice as long as I'd of figured. The additives and such stayed in the oil, but where we had an issue was contaminants getting into the oil. Not necessarily dirt/dust, but engine blow-by. It ended up I changed my oil change interval from 100-150 hours to 300 hours. 100 hours at 50 mph is 5,000 miles. 300 hours at 50 mph is 15,000 miles. The Rotella 15-45 engine oil dino oil I used still showed pretty good at 300 hours, but between 300 and 400 those contaminants started to show up good. On some of the machines I'd change filters between oil changes, and we ran Lubrifinders where we could.

I think 5,000 miles on a Jeep with a quality syn oil is a good interval.

BTW, yes I know we don't average 50 mph in our Jeeps for 5,000 miles. But with a lot of industrial equipment you do run at higher rpms/loads compared to a on-street type vehicle.
couldnt agree more. very similar to my professional working experience

I also love motorcycles and use Fuchs Silkolene oil. the following is an extract from them
It is only really important to change oil regularly if the bike or car covers a low annual mileage made up of slow, short runs. This is being cruel to the oil and the engine! The oil, regardless of its quality, gets full of fuel and water vapour, and never gets the chance to evaporate it all off with a long fast run. The consequences are corrosion, ring and bore wear, and gear tooth pitting. It is essential to do a change at least once a year, even if the recommended mileage hasnít been covered. On the other hand, if you eat up the miles on long blasts the engine and its oil will love it, so with a top-quality oil it is OK to cheat a little on oil drain periods.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 05:00 PM   #195
Bigbob
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Originally Posted by SKINUM View Post
Oil changes every 5,000 miles when using synthetic seems over the top to me. I'd stick with chaning the filter @ 3,000 and probably stretch the oil change out past 5,000. I'm use to toyota engines though.
I used to get oil filters checked as well. Now mind you, the stuff I ran was in extreme conditions. We had to run triple air filters on everything and we had to blow out the outer filter every couple hours. Big dirt. Those oil filters at 150 hours looked pretty good. That is like 7,500 miles on a Jeep and most Jeeps don't run in near the harsh environment I had.

But I agree on 5,000 being too small a number, but my policy is to change it once a year whether it needs it or not. I run my Jeep about 4,000 a year if that. I change oil and filter on my '09 Ram at 7K.
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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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