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Unread 08-19-2011, 06:44 PM   #1861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lope View Post
I think Ruby4MyMrs was talking about the gear going on the shaft.
Thank you Lope. Yes I was talking about the gear-on-shaft. It looks symmetrical & that the gear would go on one of 2 ways (180 apart) but the shaft is drilled off center in some if not all shafts. It is a small amount & as I said at least one gear was broken not knowing this detail. If you fail to mark them, it only takes a visual to see which way it goes. Just be aware.

BTW this was in response to Boundless who has pulled his OPDA but was just going to reinstall it & I said as long as it was out he should disassemble it & at least shoot some oil on the top bushing.

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Unread 08-19-2011, 09:06 PM   #1862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lope

I think Ruby4MyMrs was talking about the gear going on the shaft.
I misunderstood. Please excuse
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Unread 08-20-2011, 03:25 PM   #1863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Well marking it is more for awareness. Someone here recently had his 180 out & the holes did not quite line up but he forced it & broke the gear.

Your trip isn't to Tennessee is it? Anyway, good luck & be safe.
I'm actually driving all the way around Lake Michigan. It can get pretty remote, especially in the U.P.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 05:38 PM   #1864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Well marking it is more for awareness. Someone here recently had his 180 out & the holes did not quite line up but he forced it & broke the gear.

Your trip isn't to Tennessee is it? Anyway, good luck & be safe.
That was Benderff. I've done a whole bunch of OPDA's for members here and of all the one's I've done they can only go on one way. When I first started taking them apart I would mark the gear because I though it was necessary. I still mark it, just because I'm particular, but the hole will not align correctly with the gear in wrong. You will also be able to see the skew. If you can see clearly through the hole with no edges, you have it right.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 05:42 PM   #1865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
The wear pattern is wider than ideal but not terrible. I would suggest that you pull the shaft out & give it & the top bushing a little shot of oil. Remember that the gear only goes back on one way. Mark it before removing.
I agree the pattern is consistent with the wear we've all see. I encourage everyone who pulls the OPDA to remove the gear and inspect the upper bushing for damage or for data (black gunk, scoring, heat marks). And like Rubi4MyMrs suggests, oil it or slap on some light lube.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 06:12 PM   #1866
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Well, I just installed my new un-modded OPDA. I figured I'd try and give the sharpie method a shot transferring marks over to the new OPDA, worst case I get a code and have to do the TDC method. Stated it up and got no codes. Drove it to the grocery store and got a P0016 and a P0581 (P0581 Cruise Control Multi-Function Input "A" Circuit High (kind of odd since I don't have Cruise Control)). I went home pulled the negative for 2 mins and tweaked the OPDA. CEL came on in 13 seconds from starting. Pulled the neg again and tweaked it a little more clockwise. No CEL at idle for a minute so I took a ride. Drove about 2 miles and I'm still good.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 07:29 PM   #1867
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About 4 months ago I pulled my OPDA & did a modified FOGMod using an oil cup instead of a grease zerk. My gear was worn very unevenly & I planned on replacing it with a Crown gear at that time but 4 Wheel Parts was out of stock. I now have pulled it again to install the gear & see how the oil mod is working. I have only a little over 1600 miles so it won’t qualify for a long term test.

As has been reported, the Crown gear has the (single) hole located in a little different position. I also found it to be too tight to slide onto the shaft more than a very small amount. I “honed” the gear a little be wrapping a strip of emery cloth around the shank of a Phillips head screwdriver & rotating the gear. After several test fits I had it going on snugly. After lining it up with the hole in the shaft I drilled through that hole (using it as a guide) & through the other side of the gear on my drill press. With the gear installed, I measured the end play & found it to be 0.062” Thanks to TJJP77’s help, I tapped the wheel down to where I now have 0.026” endplay.

I learned something interesting doing the Crown gear install. I didn’t find the gear to be particularly hard since it “honed” out fairly easily but what was interesting was that as I first tried to install the gear (pre-honing) just by hand, twisting it slightly as I pushed inward I realized it would not make it & I reversed course. When I got the gear off, I could clearly see that the gear was galling the shaft! How soft is that shaft if hand turning will leave scoring lines? No wonder we get shaft scoring all the time. Like I said, I don’t consider the gear to be that hard but it seems that it is harder than the shaft.

As far as the oil mod itself, there is no apparent further damage to the shaft/top bushing. Granted it is only 1600 miles. Some oil has accumulated inside the OPDA housing which tells me oil is making it to the top of the bushing & over.

I added a little reinforcement to the oil cup assembly & attached it with a small bolt through the existing hole in the housing. That has had a second benefit of keeping the accumulated oil from spilling out.
p8160157.jpg   p8160165.jpg   p8160180.jpg   p8160199.jpg   p8160211.jpg  

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Unread 08-20-2011, 09:36 PM   #1868
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Thanks for the update Ruby4MyMrs. Interesting reinforcement you put in. Did you have issues or are you just trying to prevent any because of the aluminum housing?

Is that an O-ring where the brass fitting threads into the housing? It looks like it's about shot already.

EDIT Also, how did the top bushing area look?
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Unread 08-20-2011, 09:58 PM   #1869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lope View Post
Thanks for the update Ruby4MyMrs. Interesting reinforcement you put in. Did you have issues or are you just trying to prevent any because of the aluminum housing?

Is that an O-ring where the brass fitting threads into the housing? It looks like it's about shot already.

EDIT Also, how did the top bushing area look?
I didnít have any issue but I added that during the install. When I originally posted photos back in March, I think, someone commented that the weight of that hanging out so far might be a problem so I considered that & that is what I came up with. Yes that is an O ring & yes it has cracked. The fitting is not a tapered thread & the housing is obviously round (even though I flattened out the surface a little) so I decided on the o ring as well as thread sealer. You can see in the photos a little bit of the white thread sealer. That was a 2nd reason for the bracket; I didnít want the fitting backing out. You can see in the 2nd photo some of the top bushing. It is about the same as pre-mod.
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Unread 08-21-2011, 08:12 AM   #1870
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I disassembled mine, a small plastic bushings came out when I removed the shaft. I can't figure out where it goes? Is there a blow up diagram of the OPDA that shows the assembly sequence?
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Unread 08-21-2011, 09:05 AM   #1871
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Originally Posted by mattwings View Post
I disassembled mine, a small plastic bushings came out when I removed the shaft. I can't figure out where it goes? Is there a blow up diagram of the OPDA that shows the assembly sequence?
Just under the target wheel.
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Unread 08-21-2011, 09:42 AM   #1872
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Great, thanks, time to pull the shaft again. I had an hard time getting the threads right for the zerk. I ended up using JB weld around it to make sure I was confident pulling the grease nipple off the zerk in subsequent lubing of the OPDA.
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Unread 08-21-2011, 11:39 AM   #1873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwings View Post
Great, thanks, time to pull the shaft again. I had an hard time getting the threads right for the zerk. I ended up using JB weld around it to make sure I was confident pulling the grease nipple off the zerk in subsequent lubing of the OPDA.
I would recommend against a traditional grease fitting. Use a needle fitting for flush mount fittings. They work just as well with the traditional fittings. It will remove any extra force applied to the zerk by eliminating the need to press on the gun tip. I would not recommend a flush mount like I have installed because it's impossible to see once installed. The long shank zerk pokes out so you can easily see it and grease it.

Recommended


NOT THIS


Traditional Fitting
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Last edited by willydigger; 08-21-2011 at 11:39 AM.. Reason: Added Link to recommended
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Unread 08-21-2011, 11:42 AM   #1874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
I didnít have any issue but I added that during the install. When I originally posted photos back in March, I think, someone commented that the weight of that hanging out so far might be a problem so I considered that & that is what I came up with. Yes that is an O ring & yes it has cracked. The fitting is not a tapered thread & the housing is obviously round (even though I flattened out the surface a little) so I decided on the o ring as well as thread sealer. You can see in the photos a little bit of the white thread sealer. That was a 2nd reason for the bracket; I didnít want the fitting backing out. You can see in the 2nd photo some of the top bushing. It is about the same as pre-mod.
I would assume if you had used a tapered fitting, you wouldn't need all the extra. It does offer some piece of mind though. Great American ingenuity at work.
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Unread 08-21-2011, 12:49 PM   #1875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwings View Post
I disassembled mine, a small plastic bushings came out when I removed the shaft. I can't figure out where it goes? Is there a blow up diagram of the OPDA that shows the assembly sequence?
As Lope said it is under the wheel. Here is a photo. (This is the shaft as it is today. Same condition as prior to my oil mod.)
p8160196.jpg  
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