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Unread 08-13-2011, 08:58 AM   #1831
magnum629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwh63 View Post
willy(and others), thanks for all the hard work on this problem.

any updates on a corrected replacement, and is the current Jeep replacement still around $100. there is a lot of info here, but i take it that replacing one unit for another is straightforward?
I looked for a price online and I could not find one...Im hoping around 100 dollars I need one soon...

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Unread 08-13-2011, 09:43 AM   #1832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnum629 View Post
I looked for a price online and I could not find one...Im hoping around 100 dollars I need one soon...
First page under Acquisition. Dodge-Wholesale.com. The most recent price is $120. I recommend you get the gasket too.

http://dodge-wholesale.com/catalog/p...6f081bd4b6dfb0

Regarding the swap, follow the instructions on the first page. Mark everything, even if you do TDC. Mark and double check the marks. Take long deep breaths and don't panic. Watch the video on the first page too. I have the oil pump move on me and had a little trouble realigning. Assuming you mark everything correctly, it should go smoothly.

You are removing a bolt that is very tough to access. It can be done. Don't strip the head with wrong tools and don't over tighten when reinstalling. Tight, not too tight.

Remember to remove the alignment pin on the new unit. Some have forgotten, it happens.

Finally remember if you totally screw it up, Jeep will be glad to take your money to fix it.
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Unread 08-13-2011, 11:43 AM   #1833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
You are removing a bolt that is very tough to access. It can be done. Don't strip the head with wrong tools and don't over tighten when reinstalling. Tight, not too tight.
Good advice about the bolt Willy. I think the bolt is so tight from the factory because they don’t want owners “messing” with it thinking that they can adjust the ignition timing by turning the OPDA - thinking that because that is where the distributor used to be. There is no reason to but it back that tight.

I will be pulling mine in a couple days & should have a report with photos by next weekend on my oil cup lubricated OPDA after about 1500 miles.
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Unread 08-13-2011, 12:12 PM   #1834
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Being one who's just replaced his cam because of having left my head in the sand until having it yanked into reality, I encourage everyone to pull their OPDA, do an inspection, and FOGMod, but in my opinion the area to scrutinize is the actual cam gear rather than the OPDA drive gear. Of course, if the OPDA shaft doesn't spin freely, then the unit should be replaced. However, when and if you replace the OPDA with a new one (without replacing the cam) I would think that re-using the old drive gear would be best for the life of the cam due to it's cam-gear-mated wear. I cannot imagine that a new drive gear would do anything but accelerate deterioration of the original cam gear. Just my 2 cents, but IMHO, bearing surfaces of meshed gears should be mated for life.
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Unread 08-13-2011, 05:49 PM   #1835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Being one who's just replaced his cam because of having left my head in the sand until having it yanked into reality, I encourage everyone to pull their OPDA, do an inspection, and FOGMod, but in my opinion the area to scrutinize is the actual cam gear rather than the OPDA drive gear. Of course, if the OPDA shaft doesn't spin freely, then the unit should be replaced. However, when and if you replace the OPDA with a new one (without replacing the cam) I would think that re-using the old drive gear would be best for the life of the cam due to it's cam-gear-mated wear. I cannot imagine that a new drive gear would do anything but accelerate deterioration of the original cam gear. Just my 2 cents, but IMHO, bearing surfaces of meshed gears should be mated for life.
I agree that everyone with a ’05 or ‘06 should inspect their OPDAs, & provide lubrication to the top bushing. If it’s just a dry bushing or a little scoring, FOGMod the old one & reinstall it. As to the gear issue, there is a lot to consider. I’m guessing but I’d say a good percentage of OPDA replacements are for gear wear so reusing the old gear is not an option. Even if the gear is OK & the old one is reused on a new OPDA, are we sure that the old gear will align with the hole in the new shaft & unless the shaft hole in the new one is positioned exactly as the old one relative to the wheel position, the gear teeth will not mate with their original companion teeth on the cam gear. In that case, “mated for life” is out. It is no different than using a different worn gear on the original (worn) cam gear. New-on-new is not necessarily always recommended. While most cam manufactures recommend replacing lifters with a cam replacement, I don’t recall seeing them recommend replacing the distributor gear except for racing applications. I certainly don’t recall any replacement distributor manufactures recommending replacing the cam at the same time as the distributor. Over the years I have replaced a number of cams without replacing the lifters or distributor/oil pump gears without problems. (Assuming there was not abnormal wear on the old parts, of course.) New OPDA, old cam may not be ideal but I would guess the accelerated wear would be to the “sacrificial” new gear, not to the old cam gear.

As to the cam gear, it is difficult to evaluate its degree of wear. In fact, it is impossible unless you turn the cam a full 360 degrees to inspect every tooth. Has anyone out there turned the cam (engine) with the OPDA out to do a proper inspection? I MAY try it on mine using the TDC method & pinning the wheel. Maybe! If I do, it will be to see if my cam gear has the same uneven wear pattern as my OPDA gear has.
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Unread 08-13-2011, 09:59 PM   #1836
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ok I have one more thing to ask ??????????? The hole fogmod thing is a great idea and the lack of oil to the top bushing adding grease is a great trick.... But some still feel the gear wearing wil still return after the fogmod ??? I see people saying the fogmod will help ...but help to me is still wearing??
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Unread 08-14-2011, 08:43 AM   #1837
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I have to agree with Rubi4MyMrs about the whole distributor/gear replacement thing - As someone who is old enough to have worked on a lot of carbureted vehicles with conventional distributors, distributor replacement was a fairly normal thing, and no thought was ever given to needing to reuse the original gear. You simply got a distributor from a parts store or a junkyard and plopped it in. Fire and brimstone did not fall from the sky, and everything was fine. A properly hardened surface with no unusual wear should be able to handle this.
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Unread 08-14-2011, 11:54 AM   #1838
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ok I have one more thing to ask ??????????? The hole fogmod thing is a great idea and the lack of oil to the top bushing adding grease is a great trick.... But some still feel the gear wearing wil still return after the fogmod ??? I see people saying the fogmod will help ...but help to me is still wearing??
As has been stated here many times, the purpose of the FOGMod is to lubricate the top bushing. If reducing the drag on the shaft improves the gear wear issue that is a bonus. I don’t think anyone disputes that the ideal solution to the gear issue is to replace the cam & OPDA gear. Even by doing that there is no guaranty that there won’t be excessive wear on the new parts. The hope is that with proper break in with the best available oil, wear be normal. As to results, well we are all trying various ideas & posting what we find. Not much more can be done. There likely is no perfect solution but we are looking for results we can live with.

What has been great about this thread is the lack of negativity. There have been a lot of differing ideas & alternatives. Rarely do we see a negative post. It is Willy’s thread & he supports pretty much all ideas. That has made this thread information central & the go-to place for all things OPDA related, not just a FOGMod how-to.
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Unread 08-14-2011, 03:37 PM   #1839
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ok, this problem seems to be both unresolved and officially unrecognized by Jeep/Chrysler/Fiat. There is no new and improved part. You can try home modding/maintenance on a part that shouldn't need that kind of attention.

If it does fail, you're looking at potentially some serious engine damage.

So, should one avoid buying the 05-06 Jeep (and does this problem exist on ALL 05-06 Jeep products?), and if you own one, should you sell it if practical?
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Unread 08-14-2011, 03:53 PM   #1840
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Switching from M1 5w40 TDT to Valvoline VR1 10w30 today. All the local stores are asking $9/quart for M1 5w40 TDT and Walmart no longer stocks it. I found Napa stocks Valvoline VR1 for ~$5.40/quart.

I greased up my FogMOD OPDA yesterday with Aeroshell 33MS in anticipation of today oil change. I may need to pull the OPDA apart as the grease is seeping up the shaft out of the top of the OPDA (I will post pictures shortly). I should have pulled the cover and checked if the grease was there prior to adding the additional 2-3 pumps .
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Unread 08-14-2011, 05:00 PM   #1841
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if you own one, should you sell it if practical?
Definitely not!
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Unread 08-14-2011, 06:41 PM   #1842
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definitely not own one?
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Unread 08-14-2011, 07:39 PM   #1843
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definitely not own one?
Read what he quoted and then his reply.
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Unread 08-15-2011, 10:57 AM   #1844
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Switching from M1 5w40 TDT to Valvoline VR1 10w30 today. All the local stores are asking $9/quart for M1 5w40 TDT and Walmart no longer stocks it. I found Napa stocks Valvoline VR1 for ~$5.40/quart.

I greased up my FogMOD OPDA yesterday with Aeroshell 33MS in anticipation of today oil change. I may need to pull the OPDA apart as the grease is seeping up the shaft out of the top of the OPDA (I will post pictures shortly). I should have pulled the cover and checked if the grease was there prior to adding the additional 2-3 pumps .
Shouldn’t that be considered normal? You have to ask yourself, where is the “old” grease going when you replace it with new? With the seal below the bushing it has to go up. I’m not using grease in my mod so I’m just guessing but it seems that 2-3 pumps is a lot. That may be right for the initial filling but after the reservoir is filled the subsequent greasing should only be to move fresh grease into the bushing/shaft area. Also, for good distribution you should grease it with the engine running & up to normal temperature.

BTW keep watching the O’Rielly’s ad. A few months ago they had VR1 for $2.99/qt. Can’t beat that.
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Unread 08-15-2011, 07:15 PM   #1845
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BTW keep watching the O’Rielly’s ad. A few months ago they had VR1 for $2.99/qt. Can’t beat that.
Yep, and I bought 7 cases during that sale. I have two 4.0's to feed.
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