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Unread 08-04-2011, 10:50 AM   #1801
Brainwashed2566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
We need a removal write up for 2004 and previous years ODPA.

It looks easy as hell, do I need to worry about lining anything up taking it on or off? Or just pop it out and twist it back in?
Hey man go get your own OPDA problem thread! This is ours!!!

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Unread 08-04-2011, 01:04 PM   #1802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T.
We need a removal write up for 2004 and previous years ODPA.

It looks easy as hell, do I need to worry about lining anything up taking it on or off? Or just pop it out and twist it back in?
You need a FSM, and you will be good.
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Unread 08-05-2011, 06:46 AM   #1803
Erik T.
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I looked through my Haynes Manual, and there is no mention of ODPA or CPS in it

I do have a FSM I believe on disc that someone sent me a few years back, I gotta try and find it though.
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Hack work? :rofl: You just described half the modified jeeps on this board.
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Unread 08-05-2011, 11:58 AM   #1804
Brainwashed2566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
I looked through my Haynes Manual, and there is no mention of ODPA or CPS in it

I do have a FSM I believe on disc that someone sent me a few years back, I gotta try and find it though.
Haynes is terrible. Didn't they try to put all years of YJ and TJ and some JK's in one 250 page manual? That is pretty bad.
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Unread 08-05-2011, 11:59 AM   #1805
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
We need a removal write up for 2004 and previous years ODPA.

It looks easy as hell, do I need to worry about lining anything up taking it on or off? Or just pop it out and twist it back in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
I looked through my Haynes Manual, and there is no mention of ODPA or CPS in it

I do have a FSM I believe on disc that someone sent me a few years back, I gotta try and find it though.
OK Erik we are trying to keep this on '05&'06 OPDAs but this should help you. If you need a reference go to
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-se....swf#toolbar=0

Page down to pages 7-9.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 01:19 PM   #1806
GMBNT42
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OK I got a quick question. Installing the new OPDA today(keeping the camshaft, but replaced the lifters/pushrods), and I just put in a new timing chain. I aligned the timing chain to the marks, then spin the crankshaft harmonic damper(clockwise from front, which I believe is correct running rotation?) 720 degrees to make sure the cam and crank sprocket timing marks still line up perfectly(which they do). The new OPDA is "locked" into place via a retainer of some type which I assume means "TDC" to the OPDA.

So the question is, is it ready to be installed now, or do I need to rotate the crank another 360 degrees(180 degrees out on cam/crank sprocket marks)and then install the OPDA? The instructions are a bit vauge on the Jeep resource/factory manual link on what the correct position of the crankshaft is other than TDC, but that could be TDC at "0 degrees"(cam/crank timing marks lined up)or "180 degrees" TDC(cam sprocket 180 degrees out on timing marking to the crank sprocket).............

Help here clearing things up would be great.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 01:27 PM   #1807
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You want the no. 1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Both valves on 1 should be closed. Easy to check if you still have the valve cover off.

That should be the point at which the timing marks are aligned.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 01:44 PM   #1808
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Yes usually the marks line up at #1 compression but not always. If you are 180 out the #1 valves may look closed but actually be in the “overlap” position so move the crank a little each way to make sure the valves don’t move.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 01:59 PM   #1809
GMBNT42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
You want the no. 1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Both valves on 1 should be closed. Easy to check if you still have the valve cover off.

That should be the point at which the timing marks are aligned.
The #1 cylinder(front one) is always at "TDC" when the damper is lined up with the mark on the timing chain cover. Right now the cam/crank sprockets timing marks are lined up together(closest to each other) at the 0 degree position as well. Problem is, to turn it back over to 180 degrees(360 turn on crank damper with the cam sprocket timing mark farthest away from crank sprocket)) is a BEAR to turn by hand with the valves installed. Was hoping someone could verify if the OPDA installs with the timing marks closest together(0 degrees)on the timing chain/sprockets or farthest away(180 degrees on cam sprocket pointing up towards passenger side/fender)...........
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Unread 08-06-2011, 02:21 PM   #1810
jkp
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Shouldn't be hard to turn if you pull the spark plugs out.

You are looking for TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Both valves closed. If you are at TDC 180 out, you are on the exhaust stroke and you will see valve movement.

It should be when the timing marks on the gears are closest together, but never hurts to check.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 02:32 PM   #1811
GMBNT42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
Shouldn't be hard to turn if you pull the spark plugs out.

You are looking for TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Both valves closed. If you are at TDC 180 out, you are on the exhaust stroke and you will see valve movement.

It should be when the timing marks on the gears are closest together, but never hurts to check.
See I figure TDC on compression stroke should be with timing marks on sprockets close together, but have dealt with too many odd engines in the past where that wasnt the case, lol. I was just hoping someone here could verify that though.
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Unread 08-11-2011, 01:07 PM   #1812
ChicagoRod
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I got my new OPDA and will be doing a FogMod next week. I had to order a flush mount needle zerk fitting from NAPA. $10?

Is there an over the counter grease that is acceptable besides from ordering AeroShell Grease 33MS?

I take it I will need a dedicated grease gun for the future FogMod greasing or can I just grease the rest of the Jeep with AeroShell?
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Unread 08-11-2011, 04:54 PM   #1813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRod View Post
I got my new OPDA and will be doing a FogMod next week. I had to order a flush mount needle zerk fitting from NAPA. $10?

Is there an over the counter grease that is acceptable besides from ordering AeroShell Grease 33MS?

I take it I will need a dedicated grease gun for the future FogMod greasing or can I just grease the rest of the Jeep with AeroShell?
The Aeroshell is too expensive to use on other components. I would experiment with another easy to get grease and see how it goes.

You don't need the flush mount. It is overkill and makes it difficult to easily grease. Use a needle on a regular long shaft fitting. You won't have to worry about damage to the OPDA/fitting mount and it will be very easy to access. I installed a flush because I'm anal. When I pull it again (provided I don't try the oil cup mod I will be adding a long shank fitting.
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Unread 08-11-2011, 05:02 PM   #1814
ChicagoRod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
The Aeroshell is too expensive to use on other components. I would experiment with another easy to get grease and see how it goes.

You don't need the flush mount. It is overkill and makes it difficult to easily grease. Use a needle on a regular long shaft fitting. You won't have to worry about damage to the OPDA/fitting mount and it will be very easy to access. I installed a flush because I'm anal. When I pull it again (provided I don't try the oil cup mod I will be adding a long shank fitting.
I'm planning a 1500 mile trip the end of the month so I really don't have time to experiment with grease so I ordered two cartridges figuring I'd save on the shipping at least. I wouldn't say it's that much more expensive and as long as it won't hurt any other components, I'd have no issue using it down below.

Was the long shank an extension or was it the actual zerk? We couldn't find anything in the NAPA book at the store.

I would be willing to try the oil cup mod though.
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Unread 08-11-2011, 05:05 PM   #1815
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I used "Green Grease". Seemed to be the best at Advance Auto. After researching it a bit, I think I'll just use it for all the grease fittings on the chassis.

http://www.greengrease.net/
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