2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 12 - JeepForum.com
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post #166 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Originally Posted by SKINUM View Post
I can't believe this has become such a big issue. I had decided on a LJ but this issue has me thinking otherwise. Frustrating as hell!

I'm assuming all date ranges are still experiencing this problem?
I know it's frustrating, but I believe this mod will work and you will have no issues assuming you take care of it. If I had it to do over I probably would have bought an earlier model. This is treatable. The guys I feel bad for are the one who have to replace motors. I found mine at 60K miles and feel that the FogMOD will fix everything.

For those of you still unsure, I'll do the mod for you as time allows. PM me if interested. ZDDP will help protect the motor and the FogMOD will help prevent the OPDA failure.

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post #167 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 09:26 AM
ff33
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So since I am too nervous to tap a zerk into my OPDA until a spare arrives... Is another option to just take the assembly apart and add some grease to the top of the shaft and upper bushing and put it back together? Wouldn't it effectifly do the same thing as the zerk but with just more work involved?

2006 Rubicon LJ, auto, 2" lift, 1.25 bl, mml, tt, armor, winch, 33's, that's it for now.

Last edited by ff33; 01-25-2011 at 09:55 AM.
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post #168 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 09:51 AM
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UPDATE:

Okay guys, for those of you who don't know I had my OPDA diagnosed at the dealer as instructed by Chrysler. Of course the dealer said there wasn't anything wrong with my OPDA. Thanks to willydigger's excellent video I was able to pully my OPDA today and take some photos. I also changed my oil to Mobil1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck today as well.

These pics are at 28,100 miles on a 2005 TJ X. The shaft spins amazingly smooth, and I feel the wear marks aren't extremely bad. Still at only 28,000 miles, I feel as though they are excessive. I will be installing a modded OPDA as soon as they are made available, but I feel confident with the new oil and as easily as the OPDA turns, that I will be fine until I can get the modded unit installed. Again thanks to all that have contributed to solving this problem especially willydigger and Fog.






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post #169 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
UPDATE:

Okay guys, for those of you who don't know I had my OPDA diagnosed at the dealer as instructed by Chrysler. Of course the dealer said there wasn't anything wrong with my OPDA. Thanks to willydigger's excellent video I was able to pully my OPDA today and take some photos. I also changed my oil to Mobil1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck today as well.

These pics are at 28,100 miles on a 2005 TJ X. The shaft spins amazingly smooth, and I feel the wear marks aren't extremely bad. Still at only 28,000 miles, I feel as though they are excessive. I will be installing a modded OPDA as soon as they are made available, but I feel confident with the new oil and as easily as the OPDA turns, that I will be fine until I can get the modded unit installed. Again thanks to all that have contributed to solving this problem especially willydigger and Fog.
That's 28K with at least one replacement gear (based on the additional roll pin holes. Do you know when the new gear was installed? It has a good amount of wear for two gears.

As long as it moves smooth you have some time. When it starts to bind is when the crap hits the fan. Hopefully you'll have the new one sooner than later.
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post #170 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
That's 28K with at least one replacement gear (based on the additional roll pin holes. Do you know when the new gear was installed? It has a good amount of wear for two gears.

As long as it moves smooth you have some time. When it starts to bind is when the crap hits the fan. Hopefully you'll have the new one sooner than later.
Gear was replaced in December of 2005. So it's been quite some time. It's lasted this long. I'm crossing my fingers for February 14th. It really does turn smooth as silk though. Let's hope the Mobil1 oil will help it last a few more weeks!

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post #171 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I know it's frustrating, but I believe this mod will work and you will have no issues assuming you take care of it. If I had it to do over I probably would have bought an earlier model. This is treatable. The guys I feel bad for are the one who have to replace motors. I found mine at 60K miles and feel that the FogMOD will fix everything.

For those of you still unsure, I'll do the mod for you as time allows. PM me if interested. ZDDP will help protect the motor and the FogMOD will help prevent the OPDA failure.
I have't purchased the Jeep yet. Im also about six hours away from the place I will purchase. So, there is no way to see how excessive the problem is in advance.

The Jeep I was interested in also has over 100,000 miles. I'm not sure the OPDA has ever been replaced. So, it's possible the assembly is still the original which worries me about the purchase.
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post #172 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
Gear was replaced in December of 2005. So it's been quite some time. It's lasted this long. I'm crossing my fingers for February 14th. It really does turn smooth as silk though. Let's hope the Mobil1 oil will help it last a few more weeks!
Okay that makes more sense. The replacement gear is old. The oil should help with the gear wear. It won't do anything for the upper bushing seizing, but if it runs smooth I think you'll be okay for a few more weeks (hopefully weeks).

Are you planning to dissect the old unit? I'd like to get some pics of the old shaft upper bushing.
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post #173 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 11:23 AM
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Okay that makes more sense. The replacement gear is old. The oil should help with the gear wear. It won't do anything for the upper bushing seizing, but if it runs smooth I think you'll be okay for a few more weeks (hopefully weeks).

Are you planning to dissect the old unit? I'd like to get some pics of the old shaft upper bushing.
Since it's my daily driver I won't be dissecting this unit until the new one is in. I don't have a ton of time with my work schedule. But I definitely will be posting pictures of the entire unit taken apart for all to see.

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post #174 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 12:11 PM
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Here is a question:

I am looking at being proactive on this issue as I plan on keeping my Jeep for life. It's a '06 Rubi LJ with about 20K miles on the clock. I pulled the OPDA last month and did the Fog mod to it. I have always used Mobil 1 HM ACEA 10-30 oil. Next change will be the diesel oil. My gear had slight wear, nothing I would feel was abnormal. The shaft was showing some light coloration from heat build up at the top bushing, but no scoring or looseness to speak of.

Proactive question:
I intend to get the HESCO high volume pump with the oil jet to get more oil in the area of the pinion/cam gear. I am guessing the force needed to drive this pump would be greater. Is it counter productive to do this as if it takes more force to drive the pump, more force would be applied to the gear? I know it takes virtually no force to spin the wheel for the CPS. If and when I do this a new OPDA will be installed with the Fog mod.

Thoughts?

(BTW, I love this forum and all the input available here)

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #175 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 12:27 PM
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I'm curious as to whether anyone has contacted the manufacturer directly? LDI, I mean? Sorry if this has been covered.

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post #176 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 12:36 PM
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I'm curious as to whether anyone has contacted the manufacturer directly? LDI, I mean? Sorry if this has been covered.
Back when the old Chrysler went bankrupt and left this world many of their suppliers dried up and went out of business. I am guessing the new Chrysler did not contract with the supplier of the OPDA for more as they never built the 4.0. I wager they figured there was enough units on hand to supply the demand at the time. I reckon they are doing a little shuffling now to get them made.

You say LDI built them? I wonder what else they build for the new Chrysler?

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #177 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Here is a question:

I am looking at being proactive on this issue as I plan on keeping my Jeep for life. It's a '06 Rubi LJ with about 20K miles on the clock. I pulled the OPDA last month and did the Fog mod to it. I have always used Mobil 1 HM ACEA 10-30 oil. Next change will be the diesel oil. My gear had slight wear, nothing I would feel was abnormal. The shaft was showing some light coloration from heat build up at the top bushing, but no scoring or looseness to speak of.

Proactive question:
I intend to get the HESCO high volume pump with the oil jet to get more oil in the area of the pinion/cam gear. I am guessing the force needed to drive this pump would be greater. Is it counter productive to do this as if it takes more force to drive the pump, more force would be applied to the gear? I know it takes virtually no force to spin the wheel for the CPS. If and when I do this a new OPDA will be installed with the Fog mod.

Thoughts?

(BTW, I love this forum and all the input available here)
I don't believe there is any issue with the amount of oil getting to the cam gear itself, rather it's the formulation of the oil being used although that has only become an issue at the cam gear as a result of a faulty designed unit in the '05-'06 models.

Keep in mind that the earlier style ('04 and earlier) units have no real wear issues at the pinion.
I'd venture to assume there is only an issue with the cam gear junction due to the drag of the insufficiently lubed bushing which is putting excessive pressure on the gear and causing wear.
So from what I understand, if the unit wasn't faulty, we likely wouldn't be having gear issues.

That being said, the low ZDDP oils have indeed caused problems in the cam/lifter area as well, so higher Zinc and Phosphate oil formulations are definately worth the effort imo and by their design should also help reduce wear at the cam gear until a suitable solution is verified for this problem.

Time will tell, but if the FogMod is a succesful solution then the newly installed units should show no significant wear at the cam gear.

So to answer your question, I don't see a high volume pump helping prevent any wear in this area.
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post #178 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
I don't believe there is any issue with the amount of oil getting to the cam gear itself, rather it's the formulation of the oil being used although that has only become an issue at the cam gear as a result of a faulty designed unit in the '05-'06 models.

Keep in mind that the earlier style ('04 and earlier) units have no real wear issues at the pinion.
I'd venture to assume there is only an issue with the cam gear junction due to the drag of the insufficiently lubed bushing which is putting excessive pressure on the gear and causing wear.
So to answer your question, I don't see a high volume pump helping prevent any wear in this area.
Makes sense.

My brother in law bought a Rubi LJ at the same time I did. We both have about the same mileage. I have always used the Mobil 1 10-30 oil, the Extended version the first couple changes and the High Mileage since. He has usually just taken his to Jiffy lube and had whatever they use put in. My gear had a lot less wear on it than his when I pulled his and did the Fog mod on his OPDA. Since Mobil 1 has lowered the zinc in the HM and I could care less about warranty issues I will change to the diesel oil next change. I advised him to do the same.

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #179 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 01:27 PM
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Makes sense.

My brother in law bought a Rubi LJ at the same time I did. We both have about the same mileage. I have always used the Mobil 1 10-30 oil, the Extended version the first couple changes and the High Mileage since. He has usually just taken his to Jiffy lube and had whatever they use put in. My gear had a lot less wear on it than his when I pulled his and did the Fog mod on his OPDA. Since Mobil 1 has lowered the zinc in the HM and I could care less about warranty issues I will change to the diesel oil next change. I advised him to do the same.
Yes, I was pissed that they changed the formulation on me which I happened to discover just a week after I changed the oil in my rig.

I guess I should have done a quick re-check of the specs before I dropped the coin, but I made the mistake of assuming it would be the same. Common sense should have prevailed seeing how often they are changing formulations these day. Oh well, at least I didn't go 5k miles on it before I found the change.

The frustrating point is that it is becoming increasingly difficult to find a suitable oil for what is actually a very primative engine design.

The M1 TDT 5w40 seems to be a very decent solution. My next alternative was to re-check the levels in the current Amsoil and Royal Purple formulas, however I'd personally much rather use a Mobil product.
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post #180 of 5447 Old 01-25-2011, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
Yes, I was pissed that they changed the formulation on me which I happened to discover just a week after I changed the oil in my rig.

I guess I should have done a quick re-check of the specs before I dropped the coin, but I made the mistake of assuming it would be the same. Common sense should have prevailed seeing how often they are changing formulations these day. Oh well, at least I didn't go 5k miles on it before I found the change.

The frustrating point is that it is becoming increasingly difficult to find a suitable oil for what is actually a very primative engine design.

The M1 TDT 5w40 seems to be a very decent solution. My next alternative was to re-check the levels in the current Amsoil and Royal Purple formulas, however I'd personally much rather use a Mobil product.
What is the recommended change interval? 3,000 miles or is it more?

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