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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 07-25-2011, 06:20 PM   #1741
Benderff
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I tried to cheat it. I transfered the marks over to the new unit and installed it. I compared the picture I took, and the marks. It looks perfect. I fired it up and no codes. Let it run for a little while, and still no codes. Took it over 2000 rpms and no codes. Then I went for a test drive. Took it through the RPM band and got up to 65. No codes and ran normal. Before I installed the new unit I coated the gear and the drive end with break in lube.

Thank you guys for the above info. I will keep that in mind when I pull it to check down the road.

On a side note the removal write-up in post 7 says to use a metric 13 wrench to remove the bolt holding the OPDA in place. I had to run to NAPA and find a new one once I got it out. It's 1/2" like the video says.


Thanks again for all the info!

I will offer up my old OPDA if anyone wants to experiment with it. It of course needs a new gear. The upper seal is gone, and it is FOG mod'ed.

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Unread 07-25-2011, 06:57 PM   #1742
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Glad you got it going!
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Unread 07-25-2011, 07:00 PM   #1743
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
I tried to cheat it. I transfered the marks over to the new unit and installed it. I compared the picture I took, and the marks. It looks perfect. I fired it up and no codes. Let it run for a little while, and still no codes. Took it over 2000 rpms and no codes. Then I went for a test drive. Took it through the RPM band and got up to 65. No codes and ran normal. Before I installed the new unit I coated the gear and the drive end with break in lube.

Thank you guys for the above info. I will keep that in mind when I pull it to check down the road.

On a side note the removal write-up in post 7 says to use a metric 13 wrench to remove the bolt holding the OPDA in place. I had to run to NAPA and find a new one once I got it out. It's 1/2" like the video says.


Thanks again for all the info!

I will offer up my old OPDA if anyone wants to experiment with it. It of course needs a new gear. The upper seal is gone, and it is FOG mod'ed.
I'll edit the post. Thanks for pointing it out. It is 1/2. The 6-point is only needed if your bolt is rounded. I've had success with the open end only and looking back at the video I used the open end.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 07:08 PM   #1744
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Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
PICS!

There will be gear wear. The OPDA gear is supposed to wear. The wear area should be short on the tooth.

Chutta, how did you get oil on the upper bushing?
Perhaps two teeth have longer wear, now approaching 3/4 across their length.
As for the oil, I placed it on there manually, thinking maybe with the .002 groove worn in the shaft and the seal riding in it that this would keep the oil up top. This was just a stop gap measure when the part was $377+ and so far so good
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Unread 07-25-2011, 07:13 PM   #1745
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I havn't posted in this thread lately,but have been watching the progress reports closely. I ran across in JP magazines July engine swap article the following. That in 2006 GM changed from a 24x " Reluctor " to a 58x unit.This is what sends the timing signal to the ECU. This was brought about by government regulations requiring finer resolutions to determine misfire and emissions.

This info is on page 34 along with sources that offer convertors to use a new engine with an old ECU. I am hesitant to post that part of the article as I'm sure some of these folks may not like having their names posted without permission.

That said a previous post I made about reflashing or using a convertor that will allow us to use a 04' OPDA and my contacting several companies that program ECU's went by without comment. I think that we probably all seem to be trying to make our 05 and 06 OPDA's work like the 04 and earlier units.

My thinking is that if we can find someone that can make the 05/06 ECU work with the 04 OPDA that would be easier, cheaper and more trustworthy than our modded ones.

Thanks to Fog, Willy, Tiki, Lope and everyone else that have worked hard to solve this problem.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 07:40 PM   #1746
Rubi4MyMrs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slugger View Post
I havn't posted in this thread lately,but have been watching the progress reports closely. I ran across in JP magazines July engine swap article the following. That in 2006 GM changed from a 24x " Reluctor " to a 58x unit.This is what sends the timing signal to the ECU. This was brought about by government regulations requiring finer resolutions to determine misfire and emissions.

This info is on page 34 along with sources that offer convertors to use a new engine with an old ECU. I am hesitant to post that part of the article as I'm sure some of these folks may not like having their names posted without permission.

That said a previous post I made about reflashing or using a convertor that will allow us to use a 04' OPDA and my contacting several companies that program ECU's went by without comment. I think that we probably all seem to be trying to make our 05 and 06 OPDA's work like the 04 and earlier units.

My thinking is that if we can find someone that can make the 05/06 ECU work with the 04 OPDA that would be easier, cheaper and more trustworthy than our modded ones.

Thanks to Fog, Willy, Tiki, Lope and everyone else that have worked hard to solve this problem.
I remember that discussion. It may have died from lack of comments so I will comment here. If you can find that person & be our ginney pig I'm sure a lot of us will be interested. I personally don't have the expertise to get into ECU & EFI programming. It doesn't seem practical to try to go to an earlier ECU But I think anyone with current OPDA problems would favor using the '04 unit.

The problem I see is since the change was made for emission reasons will any mod taking us back to the '04 OPDA pass emission testing for those who need to?

Just a consideration. But go forward & keep us posted.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 08:09 PM   #1747
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Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
I remember that discussion. It may have died from lack of comments so I will comment here. If you can find that person & be our ginney pig I'm sure a lot of us will be interested. I personally don't have the expertise to get into ECU & EFI programming. It doesn't seem practical to try to go to an earlier ECU But I think anyone with current OPDA problems would favor using the '04 unit.

The problem I see is since the change was made for emission reasons will any mod taking us back to the '04 OPDA pass emission testing for those who need to?

Just a consideration. But go forward & keep us posted.
I don't have have the expertise either I was just hoping that maybe someone does. My research has been that no one seems interested in putting the work into a low demand, " compared to other engines" programming issues.

I wasn't thinking of an earlier ECU just the earlier OPDA. Yea, I was hoping someone could do this reprogramming without throwing codes and confusing the ECU so bad that it wouldn't pass emissions. I have found alot of folks that do the GM and Ford V-8 hot rod motors and don't have emission problems.

For some reason even with the late model Hemi's the Chrysler ECU's give the programmers a fit.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 08:45 PM   #1748
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Glad you got it going!
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I'll edit the post. Thanks for pointing it out. It is 1/2. The 6-point is only needed if your bolt is rounded. I've had success with the open end only and looking back at the video I used the open end.
Thanks again for all of this that you have put together. I would have been even more lost without it.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:42 PM   #1749
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If you have a manual transmission, getting the tone wheel to the "TDC" position where the hole in the wheel lines up with the hole in the bottom of the cup is pretty easy. Just put it in 5th gear and roll the jeep forward until the hole lines up.

Throw the allen wrench in there, make a couple marks, take the allen wrench out and follow the directions in that video.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:46 PM   #1750
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Originally Posted by rnorma1 View Post
If you have a manual transmission, getting the tone wheel to the "TDC" position where the hole in the wheel lines up with the hole in the bottom of the cup is pretty easy. Just put it in 5th gear and roll the jeep forward until the hole lines up.

Throw the allen wrench in there, make a couple marks, take the allen wrench out and follow the directions in that video.
That would have been nice to know yesterday
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Unread 07-26-2011, 01:03 PM   #1751
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Forgive me as I know there was some earlier discussion about it, but I have a quick question that was posed as I pulled my 2k mi new OPDA to begin my cam replacement project: In light of what's now known or supposed about our issue would it make sense to replace the factory drive gear with a sacrificial bronze or bronze alloy gear in addition to the FOGMod?
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Unread 07-26-2011, 01:43 PM   #1752
Zetto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Forgive me as I know there was some earlier discussion about it, but I have a quick question that was posed as I pulled my 2k mi new OPDA to begin my cam replacement project: In light of what's now known or supposed about our issue would it make sense to replace the factory drive gear with a sacrificial bronze or bronze alloy gear in addition to the FOGMod?
The consensus seems to be that a softer bronze gear will just get eaten up quicker. Thus leaving shavings to be chewed up and deposited in the oil pan. They are typically used in drag applications to extend the life of the cam.

While I do agree there are issues with lubrication and binding and highly recommend the FogMOD there is a bigger alignment issue. Until that core issue is resolved switching materials would not help.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 01:43 PM   #1753
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Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Forgive me as I know there was some earlier discussion about it, but I have a quick question that was posed as I pulled my 2k mi new OPDA to begin my cam replacement project: In light of what's now known or supposed about our issue would it make sense to replace the factory drive gear with a sacrificial bronze or bronze alloy gear in addition to the FOGMod?
NO! Never do it. The bronze gear IMO is a single use gear for racing applications. I would never install one in a DD or weekend only rig. The current stock gear is a sacrificial gear.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 12:28 PM   #1754
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Had an opportunity to get the Jeep out of the garage and since it's still CPO covered I thought I would bring it to the dealership to check out the OPDA.

I did confirm the parts, that in the event they did find premature ware that both the OPDA and CAM were covered.

The tech that did the inspection is a Jeep gear head and did explain there was a recall of 16k Jeeps with a certain VIN (not mine) that were effected with poor design OPDAs in mid 2005. Now he said there was an OPDA for '05 Wranglers prior to the REV-B and REV-E. Those are the OPDA's that were part of the 16k recall back in early 2005. He states the original OPDA were NOT made by LDI, another company, but does not recall the name......

He states my OPDA is REV-E and was last update before the JK arrival in '07.

2006 TJ Rubicon with 68,509 miles, automatic. Build date of 11-05.

I bought the rig with 56,000 miles from the owner of my local Jeep dealer. Owner is 64 and never took it wheeln, garage kept.

I religiously change the oil every 3 month as its not my DD and I never hit the 3k before the 3 months are up. I use only Valvoline Premium Conventional 10w30 and Pruolator PureOne filter. She purrs at 600 rpms at idol. Though I think it's time to clean the IAC again.

See pic below, no gear damage, iPhone died after we removed parts to expose shaft and no scorching found etc.

CPO coverage until March 2012 or if I hit 80k which is doubtful.

So with this info.....do I still FogMod?

Thanks
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fuscoopda.jpg  
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Unread 07-29-2011, 01:04 PM   #1755
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That gear does look good!
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