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Unread 07-25-2011, 11:28 AM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
If the seal is failing which is what I suspect based on the sludge than you may have an issue. At this point I'm guessing a seal problem since it's not grease. I can't imagine what else it would be.

I don't think I would mess with it at all. You have no issues, the gear looks good, clean it and reinstall. Pull it again at 3-5K and have a look at what's happening with the upper bushing? Does the sludge come back? Is there oil up there?

Do you think I should FOG mod it, or just run it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
There's no way I'd switch to a different OPDA if I were you. The one you have looks great and I see no reason to mess with a good thing. I'd still do the FOGMOD on both, but re-install the old one.

There was some talk earlier of adjustable end-play (post #1677) and I'm wondering if you took precise measurements before removing the shaft or if it would matter?
Thanks! I need to pick up an new caliper since I just killed mine during my last reloading project so I didn't measure.

See ya on the trail?

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Unread 07-25-2011, 12:10 PM   #1727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
Do you think I should FOG mod it, or just run it?



Thanks! I need to pick up an new caliper since I just killed mine during my last reloading project so I didn't measure.

See ya on the trail?
Great point about end play.

I would not FogMod it for the short term. I consider this one of the "special" OPDA's. There is something about it that is exactly right. I suspect the bad seal will allow oil in the upper bushing area to protect you. Check it in another few thousand miles. Note current wear, and compare.

Maybe it's a matter of when the seal fails that prolongs life?
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Unread 07-25-2011, 12:22 PM   #1728
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Does this mean that we found one OPDA that wasn't part of Chrysler's original 16,000 effected??
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Unread 07-25-2011, 12:41 PM   #1729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Great point about end play.

I would not FogMod it for the short term. I consider this one of the "special" OPDA's. There is something about it that is exactly right. I suspect the bad seal will allow oil in the upper bushing area to protect you. Check it in another few thousand miles. Note current wear, and compare.

Maybe it's a matter of when the seal fails that prolongs life?
The trip I am about to do makes me nervous about that.

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Originally Posted by Brainwashed2566 View Post
Does this mean that we found one OPDA that wasn't part of Chrysler's original 16,000 effected??
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Unread 07-25-2011, 12:55 PM   #1730
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Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
The trip I am about to do makes me nervous about that.
You've gone 50K already. FogMod if it will make you feel more comfortable. I don't think it will hurt you. I'm just curious what you would find in another few thousand miles after cleaning.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 01:00 PM   #1731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
Do you think I should FOG mod it, or just run it?

Thanks! I need to pick up an new caliper since I just killed mine during my last reloading project so I didn't measure.

See ya on the trail?
Still up in the air. Cam, lifters, etc. are scheduled for UPS delivery today, so tomorrow begins the work. If all goes according to plan, we'll see you on the Rubicon in a couple of weeks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Great point about end play.

I would not FogMod it for the short term. I consider this one of the "special" OPDA's. There is something about it that is exactly right. I suspect the bad seal will allow oil in the upper bushing area to protect you. Check it in another few thousand miles. Note current wear, and compare.

Maybe it's a matter of when the seal fails that prolongs life?
I agree that it's "one of the special ones," but I'd FOGmod it anyway. Is your thinking, Willy, that if it ain't broke, don't fix it? I generally adhere to this philosophy, but in this case I can't see any potential harm and the stakes are relatively high.

Like I said, my top end is coming apart tomorrow so I'll be posting pics of the original cam, lifters, etc. along with those of the old (dead) OPDA and the new one that I installed about 2300 miles ago. I haven't FOGModded the new one yet, but will likely do it while I'm rebuilding the top end. Anyone have requests for particular photo details that might help guide us in this journey down the rabbit hole?

I'm thinking that 2300 miles isn't much on the new OPDA, so I'm hopeful that there's not enough wear on it's gear yet to pose any problem with mating the new cam gear. Anyone have thoughts on this that I might (or might not) want to hear?
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Unread 07-25-2011, 01:05 PM   #1732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
I agree that it's "one of the special ones," but I'd FOGmod it anyway. Is your thinking, Willy, that if it ain't broke, don't fix it? I generally adhere to this philosophy, but in this case I can't see any potential harm and the stakes are relatively high.
More of my own selfish curiosity of why this one is different and what we will discover as we watch it over 5-10K miles.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 01:13 PM   #1733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
Do you think I should FOG mod it, or just run it?



Thanks! I need to pick up an new caliper since I just killed mine during my last reloading project so I didn't measure.

See ya on the trail?
When I look at your 6th photo on post #1709 it looks like there might be some scoring on the outside edge of the wheel. Better check the top bushing carefully. We have seen one here recently that had so much bushing wear that the wheel was hitting the CPS or something.

As for the end play, I don’t think it is that critical. It needs to be enough that when the aluminum housing expands there is still some clearance & yet not so much that the wheel rises too far from the CPS. I found TJJP77’s post. It is #1197 & says, “The spec (according to the bulletin) is 0.010" to 0.030"...” Mine is 0.038" & fine.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 02:24 PM   #1734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
You've gone 50K already. FogMod if it will make you feel more comfortable. I don't think it will hurt you. I'm just curious what you would find in another few thousand miles after cleaning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
More of my own selfish curiosity of why this one is different and what we will discover as we watch it over 5-10K miles.
If I wasn't going to be so far away I would do it. I over think all of this, but really understand little of it, so that doesn't help. I cleaned the inside of the top bushing up. When I spin the shaft now it had a slight noise to it, that I could see becoming or leading to the monkey sound at high speeds. That's just a guess. With a little lube the sound went away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_bosun View Post
Still up in the air. Cam, lifters, etc. are scheduled for UPS delivery today, so tomorrow begins the work. If all goes according to plan, we'll see you on the Rubicon in a couple of weeks.


I hope it all goes well!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
When I look at your 6th photo on post #1709 it looks like there might be some scoring on the outside edge of the wheel. Better check the top bushing carefully. We have seen one here recently that had so much bushing wear that the wheel was hitting the CPS or something.
Thank you. I think that is just from the flash. I went out and inspected it. I see the marks on it, but they don't look like they are from rubbing. I took new one apart, and it has the same marks. It looks like they are from handling, or manufacturing, and the metal being soft? I tired to compare everything I could think of between the two. I cleaned up the inside of the top bushing and can see some wear. I compared it to the bottom bushing and it looks like it is a little more on top. I did notice the bottom bushing has a spot with more wear on it. I also compared how much "wiggle" I could feel with the shaft in, and they feel about the same.

I went to the local high priced hardware store and picked up everything needed to do the Fog mod. Including replacing my old handle for the taps. The total came to $25.00.

I did everything except drill the bushing on the old unit so far. I wanted to copy the Fog write-up and check out how things work at the sametime. I an amazed at the factory grease in there that did nothing.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 03:19 PM   #1735
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Well F me.. Looks like the new unit will be going in. Brute force doesn't work well for installing the roll pin for the gear.

I thought I read something about matching it up, and also a TDC method for istalling. I just looked, but seem to be having a hard time finding the info for installing a new unit.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 03:51 PM   #1736
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Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
Brute force doesn't work well for installing the roll pin for the gear.
What happened Benderff?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
I thought I read something about matching it up, and also a TDC method for istalling. I just looked, but seem to be having a hard time finding the info for installing a new unit.
What method did you use when you removed the old one?
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Unread 07-25-2011, 03:57 PM   #1737
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What happened Benderff?



What method did you use when you removed the old one?
The roll pin was kicking my ***, and I thought I'd pound harder. The gear collar broke. On to the new one. I just did the Fog mod and need to figure out the roll pin. When I start on one end the other end is off enough that the pin doesn't want to go through. I'm sure it's part of how it holds the gear on, but I'm gun shy now.

I used the sharpie method. I thought I read you can just make the new one match and install, but I couldn't find that info with a quick search. I'm hoping to not do the TDC method cause it sounds like a pain.


Edit: Sometimes I wonder with all have done and the places I have been how I have survived. If the roll pin doesn't want to line up spin the gear around.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 04:31 PM   #1738
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I hope you took pics of the wheel position before you pulled it out. I line up the word "TOP" with the CPS sensor in the unit and mark the back edge with the block and take a picture. Its all good reference so you don't screw it back up getting in. First time my sharpie marks came off - lesson learned.


Picture of my original unit removed at 78k, now fogmodded. I installed the new one and have 4k miles on it now. Can't wait to see what that gear looks like on the new one. I was very happy with gear wear on the original. It might be going back in soon.

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Unread 07-25-2011, 05:06 PM   #1739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
I used the sharpie method. I thought I read you can just make the new one match and install, but I couldn't find that info with a quick search. I'm hoping to not do the TDC method cause it sounds like a pain.
See post #7. I think what you want is there.

Edit: It's the TDC method
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Unread 07-25-2011, 05:14 PM   #1740
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I use the TDC method, it's not hard. If you got the holes lined up and pinned between the housings and the tone wheels first, then transferred the marks you should be good to go.
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