2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 105 - JeepForum.com

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post #1561 of 5452 Old 07-10-2011, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
OK, Ill pick up the $120 OPDA assembly..........big question though, do you think the camshaft itself is OK? Are people normally finding that the OPDA gear worn, but the camshaft gear itself to be "OK"? Since the front fenders, grill, radiator,head etc are already off, replacing the cam itself is probably easiest now, but Id rather not have to since the cam lobes and lifters all still look brand new with no wear. Using a flashlight(no mirror unfortunately)looking down the OPDA hole the camshafts own gear looks to be OK.......
The common answer is the OPDA gear is the sacrificial gear and it will wear at an accelerated should something like this occur. I would suspect that everyone who has this problem as a prematurely worn camshaft. Does it need to be changed is yes, however the bigger question is when.

I would suspect that the camshaft has some damage. Less than the OPDA gear because:
1. Leaving for reference, but incorrect. As Rubi pointed out they move at the same speed 1/2 engine speed. it's larger meaning the smaller OPDA gear will rotate more frequently causing more wear.
2. the OPDA gear wears more by design so that should it wear, it is easier to replace than the cam. I don't know the hardness of each, but that is common practice from what I've learned.

Most of us do not replace the camshaft because of these reasons along with cost and time. If you have the money, time, and feel that now is the time, I won't say don't do it. Just remember you are simple hitting the reset button. Nothing has changed with the OPDA or camshaft. TJJP77 just swapped his camshaft and OPDA and we are all waiting on his results.

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post #1562 of 5452 Old 07-10-2011, 05:20 PM
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Best pics I could pull off on the cam gear:


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post #1563 of 5452 Old 07-10-2011, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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It looks okay to me. Look at the wear at the tooth center. How thin is it? Sometimes there is a shinny piece on the outside edge. I wouldn't worry about that. How worn do the teeth look and are you comfortable with it? For the most past the majority of us don't change the camshaft.

Mine looked a little worse. Hard to say with the pics. The dealer said it was fine, but I think that is a standard dealer answer. You'll likely be okay for a while.



Here is a really good pic of a camshaft gear. This is likely from an 04 model. There is mild wear in the center of the teeth, but the thickness looks okay.
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post #1564 of 5452 Old 07-10-2011, 06:39 PM
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Willy,

A question & a comment.

Why do you say that you need to drill the shaft to install the Crown gear? I have a Crown gear but have not installed it yet. Since I haven’t pulled my OPDA I can’t verify the hole position as far as the end play goes but it has one hole & is the same 3/16” size as the shaft.

When you stated “it's larger meaning the smaller OPDA gear will rotate more frequently causing more wear.” You are, I believe mistaken. The OPDA & cam rotate at the same speed (˝ engine speed). Not trying to be too picky or negative. But your second point is accurate.

As far as the binding or clearance issue, I have to believe that there is validity here. However, I think that it is far more likely that the bushings are to blame than the shaft. If the shaft is of a greater diameter than designed, how does the gear fit over the “oversized” shaft? Also why some have issue with the top bushing while others are with the bottom? More likely one or the other (bushing) is out of tolerance. One or both could not be concentric. Tkki has done a lot of checking on the clearance issues but hasn’t found anything definitive as far as I know.



I agree, GMBNT42 's cam looks good.
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post #1565 of 5452 Old 07-10-2011, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Why do you say that you need to drill the shaft to install the Crown gear? I have a Crown gear but have not installed it yet. Since I haven’t pulled my OPDA I can’t verify the hole position as far as the end play goes but it has one hole & is the same 3/16” size as the shaft.

When you stated “it's larger meaning the smaller OPDA gear will rotate more frequently causing more wear.” You are, I believe mistaken. The OPDA & cam rotate at the same speed (˝ engine speed). Not trying to be too picky or negative. But your second point is accurate.

As far as the binding or clearance issue, I have to believe that there is validity here. However, I think that it is far more likely that the bushings are to blame than the shaft. If the shaft is of a greater diameter than designed, how does the gear fit over the “oversized” shaft? Also why some have issue with the top bushing while others are with the bottom? More likely one or the other (bushing) is out of tolerance. One or both could not be concentric. Tkki has done a lot of checking on the clearance issues but hasn’t found anything definitive as far as I know.
...
The hole for the crown gear is at a different height than the gear from the OPDA. So if you install it using the OPDA shaft hole the gear will not be in the same location. I haven't seen this as a fact, but it's been reported in the original cam thread.

The hole in the 04 CPS uses a smaller roll pin on some models. Tkki reports his 04 gear being a direct swap. The 04 CPS I purchased used a smaller roll pin. You can open those holes and used the existing shaft hole in the 05 OPDA.

With regards to the gear size, the OPDA gear looks smaller from the image. You are right about the speed though so they should share the same revolutions. I'll edit my posts so others don't get the wrong idea. Thanks for the clarity.

I don't doubt clearance issue as a factor either. I wouldn't say it is the definitive factory though. I'll mic the bushings I have from the 04 and 05 and see if there is a difference. Something makes me think tkki would have mentioned if there were. I don't recall. I can mic shafts too. I think I have a few spares lying around.
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post #1566 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 05:29 AM
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No hard feelings buddy.
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post #1567 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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No hard feelings buddy.
You have to be careful on the Internet. Especially on the Jeepforum. If you've read the DW threads you know how bad it gets around here.
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post #1568 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 08:37 AM
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Yeah the tooth center on the camshaft side looks pretty thick still, a bit of wear, but not much really......I ordered up the OPDA assembly anyway while its a reasonable price($120)and in stock. These things were in the 3-400 range just a few weeks/months back? Holy cr@p I would have had a heart attack at that price.

Whenever CROWN comes out with one, Ill order up one from them along with a new camshaft and lifters then to have on hand, but Im thinking my engine should still be good for another 80-90k.

BTW what is compression supposed to read on these engines? I got 150-155psi on all 6 cylinders before I tore the head off.

And does anyone know where I can get the factory service manual cheap?
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post #1569 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 08:44 AM
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Ebay has the factory service manual. It cost me 10 dollars but, its on a CD. I will say you have all kinds of goodies on there like part numbers,accessories and you have maintenance in it as well. 150 to 155 sounds pretty good because the 4.0L only has 8:8:1 so its not very high compression engine. I would say your good.
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post #1570 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 10:07 AM
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ANyone know the recommended interval for changing out the timing chain? Im near 90k, if it needs it may as well do in while its apart........
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post #1571 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 10:10 AM
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Timing chains should never need replacing unless your rebuilding an engine or it streches alot on you. I don't think you will have that problem my 98 has 250k and my old 95 I use to have had 230k neither had it replaced.
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post #1572 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 10:24 AM
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Ebay has the factory service manual. It cost me 10 dollars but, its on a CD. I will say you have all kinds of goodies on there like part numbers,accessories and you have maintenance in it as well. 150 to 155 sounds pretty good because the 4.0L only has 8:8:1 so its not very high compression engine. I would say your good.
Any link to the service manual? I found one for $25 plus shipping.........not sure if its complete(engine torque specs etc)or the right one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110687946085

I want to make sure the manual is 100% complete for engine repair,drivetrain,body, electrical etc........I see a 4 book set(black covers as well) but the book set is $120-200 bucks, if this CD has all 4 of those books in one disc that would be great.
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post #1573 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Just a quick update on Valvoline oil. I got a free mail in rebate for VR1 Synthetic a month or so ago. It's not the high zddp like the conventional however it has the same as M1TDT. Anyway long story short, I have the start-up tick that others were describing. I'll be going back to 5w40 for the next change. The synthetic VR1 was 10w30.
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post #1574 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Any link to the service manual? I found one for $25 plus shipping.........not sure if its complete(engine torque specs etc)or the right one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110687946085

I want to make sure the manual is 100% complete for engine repair,drivetrain,body, electrical etc........I see a 4 book set(black covers as well) but the book set is $120-200 bucks, if this CD has all 4 of those books in one disc that would be great.
You can find an on-line service manual here:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
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post #1575 of 5452 Old 07-11-2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Any link to the service manual? I found one for $25 plus shipping.........not sure if its complete(engine torque specs etc)or the right one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110687946085

I want to make sure the manual is 100% complete for engine repair,drivetrain,body, electrical etc........I see a 4 book set(black covers as well) but the book set is $120-200 bucks, if this CD has all 4 of those books in one disc that would be great.
I have the FSM for 2005 book version. It is in 2 volumes. There is a separate book for the wiring. I think there is also a body book. The number to call is 1-800-890-4038. When I ordered mine it was not clear that the 2 vol. set included a complete wiring section that included everything that is in the wiring book so I ordered the wiring book as well. That was a mistake. On the back of the 2 vols is the number 81-370-05063. I believe that is the part #. The books are very complete & helpful. The books I have are all white covers(w/black lettering).

They have a body section which is 175 pages so the body book may just be a duplication of that.

I don't know what is on the CD version but if you can verify that it has 25 chapters (which is in my 2 vol set) I think you will have everything.

It has been a while but I think the CD was about $90 from Chrysler. I prefer the book because if you need to reference 2 sections it is faster to flip back & forth than finding the places on the PC. If you are using the wiring section to trace a circuit you will see what I mean.
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