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Unread 07-05-2011, 02:15 PM   #1531
pwmac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
This rumor was started in this thread. I'm in the "I'll believe it when I see it." If I were you I'd plan as if it were not true. The risk is too great and the mod is too cheap not to do it.
====
Willydigger,
I was told (and reported) the above quoting Pat Muldon at the Easter Jeep safari. He said they aware aware if the OPD problem and at that time they had several designs in endurance testing. He said he edicted that a tsb would be forthcoming in July and new parts would follow. Asked hi directly what the problem was and he indicated so far is seemed to be a tolerance issue. Mr Mildoon is the cheif engineer at Mopar.

No followup on the july TSB

BTW, I agree with the comment that high zinc is still required for this engine. It surely was not designed for an engine oil with the low zinc content we are now seeing in our oil. I am very familiar with the race engines used for long endurance events and those guys have known about high and low zinc issue for quite some time. Everone of these engine builders I polled are useing 1500ppm zinc.
The result is less wear on the cams, lifters, etc.
So what I am doing is using my favorite oil and adding ZDDP to get the 1200 -1500ppm of zinc.
PaulW

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Unread 07-08-2011, 06:50 AM   #1532
bonza
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I'm another victim of this sorry saga.

went to start the Jeep this morning and the opda was squawking its head off, so shut it down immediately
been following this thread for some time and have been removing the opda every few thousand miles when oil changes are due to check pinion wear and to make sure the target wheel spins freely and until now all was well.
pulled it today and found the target wheel was tight to turn but the pinion was ok. a little wear but no different to many distributors I have seen.
dismantled it and the spindle where it's in contact with the top bearing dry and had a black carbon build up on it so no wonder it was squeeling.

polished the shaft with emery. it had no measurable wear and did the fog mod, put it back together now runs smooth.

I have been a gear head by profession all my working life and this is one of the worse designs I've ever seen. an absolute disgrace LDI. my advice is to do the fogmod sooner rather than later.

now just have to work out how often to regrease it, but will be pulling it every oil change to inspect it as before anyway.

its winter down here where I live and this morning was chilly 10 deg C. that seems to be the common catalyst of when they start binding.
Jeep has about 100,000 kilometers on the odo, thats about 60,000 miles for those interested

and thanks willydigger for consolidating all this info
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Unread 07-08-2011, 06:59 AM   #1533
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonza View Post
I'm another victim of this sorry saga.

went to start the Jeep this morning and the opda was squawking its head off, so shut it down immediately
been following this thread for some time and have been removing the opda every few thousand miles when oil changes are due to check pinion wear and to make sure the target wheel spins freely and until now all was well.
pulled it today and found the target wheel was tight to turn but the pinion was ok. a little wear but no different to many distributors I have seen.
dismantled it and the spindle where it's in contact with the top bearing dry and had a black carbon build up on it so no wonder it was squeeling.

polished the shaft with emery. it had no measurable wear and did the fog mod, put it back together now runs smooth.

I have been a gear head by profession all my working life and this is one of the worse designs I've ever seen. an absolute disgrace LDI. my advice is to do the fogmod sooner rather than later.

now just have to work out how often to regrease it, but will be pulling it every oil change to inspect it as before anyway.

its winter down here where I live and this morning was chilly 10 deg C. that seems to be the common catalyst of when they start binding.
Jeep has about 100,000 kilometers on the odo, thats about 60,000 miles for those interested

and thanks willydigger for consolidating all this info
Mine squeaked at around 60K.

Just thinking out loud, no real engineering or grease knowledge, but 1-2 times a year should be all. Do not over grease it. I'm thinking no more than one pump. Also grease it with it running and warm.
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:01 AM   #1534
GMBNT42
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OK, my 05' Unlimited has a build date of 10/04 and I called up a Jeep dealership and they punched in my VIN # and said the E05 recall does not apply to me at all. DOes this mean I have the old style OPDA with the "oil groove" in the shaft?

FWIW my 4.0L engine has 89k on the odometer, I pulled the head, the lifters and camshaft look brand new still, no signs of wear anywhere, but I have yet to pull the OPDA............
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:30 AM   #1535
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Build date doesn't matter. If it looks like the one on the first page you've got a bad one.
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Unread 07-09-2011, 11:25 AM   #1536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
OK, my 05' Unlimited has a build date of 10/04 and I called up a Jeep dealership and they punched in my VIN # and said the E05 recall does not apply to me at all. DOes this mean I have the old style OPDA with the "oil groove" in the shaft?

FWIW my 4.0L engine has 89k on the odometer, I pulled the head, the lifters and camshaft look brand new still, no signs of wear anywhere, but I have yet to pull the OPDA............
It has been established that the dealership is not a reliable source on this topic.

Also, you "pulled the head" but you haven't pulled the OBDA? If you have the skills needed to deal with pulling the cylinder head, you should easily be able determine which OBDA you have. There are pictures here somewhere showing the difference between the pre 05 and the problematic version in the later TJs.
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Unread 07-09-2011, 12:00 PM   #1537
GMBNT42
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Originally Posted by rnorma1 View Post
It has been established that the dealership is not a reliable source on this topic.

Also, you "pulled the head" but you haven't pulled the OBDA? If you have the skills needed to deal with pulling the cylinder head, you should easily be able determine which OBDA you have. There are pictures here somewhere showing the difference between the pre 05 and the problematic version in the later TJs.
Yeah, it looks like I have the newer 05' and later OBDA going by the outside of the housing. Just wasnt sure if the shaft itself might have the oil grooves.......was lazy and didnt want to have to pull it, but probably will now.

WHats the current price or cheapest place to buy this part if I do need one?

Also, if the dealership is not reliable on this bullitin update or have my VIN showing a recall, does that mean im stuck flipping the bill?
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Unread 07-09-2011, 01:54 PM   #1538
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oPda. Oil Pump Drive Assembly.
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Unread 07-10-2011, 10:09 AM   #1539
GMBNT42
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OK, I took out the OPDA and took some pics, really need opinions on this:
The OPDA shaft looks fine, its got some scoring, but you can barely feel it when you run your hand over it. The gear itself on the shaft though, looks worn. The camshaft itself in the engine looks "OK" its got a bit of wear showing, but its nowhere near as bad as the gear on the OPDA shaft. The engine has 87k on it(compression test showed between 150-155psi across all cylinders before I pulled head), I already sent the head out for a cleaning/valvejob/resurfacing.....which is gonna cost me around $250. So the question is, what should I do about the OPDA? Pics below. Also, based on honest recommendations where is the cheapest place to pick the needed parts up FAST? I get the head back on Wed., like to have the engine buttoned up by friday the latest. Thanks in advance for helping out a new Jeep enthusiast!





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Unread 07-10-2011, 10:15 AM   #1540
willydigger
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Cheapest is dodge-wholesale.com. Call them first and check stock. The fastest might be your local dealer for twice the cost at least.

The gear is shot. Any heat marks on the upper bushing area? Did it spin okay with no intermittent resistance? How do the bushings look?
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Unread 07-10-2011, 10:18 AM   #1541
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^^Yep, yours is toast. You'll want to order a new unit. The "Fogmod" will insure you won't have seizing issues with the shaft. There may be a redesigned unit in the works through Crown, and possible through Jeep, but I wouldn't wait around for those to materialize.

I do gotta ask why you are doing head/valve work on a 4.0 with only 87k miles?
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Unread 07-10-2011, 10:30 AM   #1542
GMBNT42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xlr8n View Post
^^Yep, yours is toast. You'll want to order a new unit. The "Fogmod" will insure you won't have seizing issues with the shaft. There may be a redesigned unit in the works through Crown, and possible through Jeep, but I wouldn't wait around for those to materialize.

I do gotta ask why you are doing head/valve work on a 4.0 with only 87k miles?
Exhaust valve on the #6 cylinder froze and bent a pushrod. Was able to unfreeze the valve temporarily and put a new pushrod in its place and the engine ran fine, but decided to just do a top engine rebuild for cheap money(headwork running me under $250).

When you say mine is toast, are you just talking about the gear on the OPDA shaft? Or the entire assembly, because the shaft looks worse than it feels(fingernails dont catch on the "grooving and it actually feels pretty smooth to the touch still) If I can just replace that small shaft gear for the time being till CROWN comes out with a new redesigned OPDA Id rather do that if the gear itself is available. THe OPDA shaft and the bushing spin fine. I never threw a code, but since Im replacing a ton of parts on the engine(water pump,serpentine belt,idler and tensioner pulley, all the gaskets, headwork as mentioned,thermostat etc etc)I wanted to make sure I have all the bases covered.

Also, the camshaft gear itself looks OK(or at least it doesnt seem to have as much wear on its gear as the gear on the OPDA assembly), but while the engine is apart, how much is a camshaft itself? CHeapest place to get a stock replacement just in case?
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Unread 07-10-2011, 11:20 AM   #1543
Rubi4MyMrs
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If the OPDA is in that relatively good condition you could just replace the gear. Crown makes one & is available from 4 Wheel Parts. I don't know if you can get one in 2 days though. They show it for earlier yrs but works on '05-'06s by all accounts. Then FOGMod the OPDA which you should do even if you get a new one. Of course the ideal way is to also replace the cam to have new-on-new gears. Then you need to check the lifters carefully. Where it ends is up to you & your wallet.
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Unread 07-10-2011, 01:04 PM   #1544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
If the OPDA is in that relatively good condition you could just replace the gear. Crown makes one & is available from 4 Wheel Parts. I don't know if you can get one in 2 days though. They show it for earlier yrs but works on '05-'06s by all accounts. Then FOGMod the OPDA which you should do even if you get a new one. Of course the ideal way is to also replace the cam to have new-on-new gears. Then you need to check the lifters carefully. Where it ends is up to you & your wallet.
The crown gear will require you drill a new hole through the shaft. I don't recommend it. The gear has to align correctly. Unless you have a drill press and some exact measurements the only option I would recommend is a new OPDA with the correct gear or potentially an OPDA from a 04 model CPS. You will have to mod that gear as well, though there are some accounts that the CPS gear sometimes will match exactly.

Order the new OPDA through Dodge-wholesale.com and when it gets in replace it. Lube the shaft with some grease to get you by until the new unit arrives. Although the gear is worn, if you grease the shaft I think you'll be fine for a week until the new OPDA arrives.
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Unread 07-10-2011, 01:19 PM   #1545
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I suggest that if you have the unit apart and there is scoring on the shaft you should smooth and reduce the diameter of the shaft with abrasive paper. This is best done on a lathe but a drill will work to spin the shaft.
It was reported at the EJS that the 'known' cause for these failures is binding of the shaft in the bearing due to out of spec shafts.
Sloppy is better than tight in this application.
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