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Unread 11-20-2008, 04:17 PM   #196
spyder6
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slick wheels

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Unread 11-25-2008, 09:30 PM   #197
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Just got back from JV and had a unbelievable time. A great bunch of people guided me thru Claw Hammer, Wrecking Ball and Sun Bonnet. As a newbie with a untested just built Jeep, I could not have been happier how the Jeep performed. I just need to learn how to drive it!

Lot's of loose bolts and nuts and a bowed tie rod but overall it did well.

Here's a couple that pretty much say it all:



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Unread 11-26-2008, 08:19 AM   #198
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Congrats. Looks like she is working pretty good.

For your tie rod you could look to Spydertrax. They are doing some really affordable heat treated links these days. I think they just made them available to the public last week. Maybe something to consider for your tie rod.

They offer limited lifetime on them. As in, they replace the first one, no questions if you can tweak it.
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Unread 11-26-2008, 09:56 AM   #199
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Thanks! I just got their newsletter and those are bling 4130 if I'm not mistaken. I didn't see a cost. I currently use chromoly tie rods (1.25" .120 wall sleeves a 1" .188 wall. I like running into things! They are pretty inexpensive and I carry a spare (now maybe two.)
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Unread 11-26-2008, 10:48 AM   #200
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149$ a peice, with bungs and heat treated.

Pretty tough to beat.

Free shipping till xmas too !!
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Unread 11-26-2008, 11:16 AM   #201
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Actually the Chromoly tubes we get are aircraft grade chromoly and I think they are around $9 per foot for the 1" and $6 for the 1.25". Then the tube inserts are $13 each. I think they are actually stronger than the links Spidertrax is offering. Their 1.25 tubes are only .120 wall and is very similar to what we use. Then we insert a 1" .188 wall inside giving the tube much more strength. Blaine actually recommended both how to do it and where to get the material. The way I bash into things I need it!

I need 4' sections so $60 for the chromoly and $26 for tube inserts is quite a bit less. I can almost make two. But for people who don't have the need for the xtra strength the Spider stuff is very good.
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Last edited by Savvy; 11-26-2008 at 11:29 AM..
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Unread 11-26-2008, 11:34 AM   #202
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Great build. I just finished all 14 pages again ..

I am needing to build some stronger steering arms myself. Any part#'s or more information you can give me on the sleevs and tubing you are getting would help. Also are you using 7/8"s tie rod ends?
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Unread 11-26-2008, 11:37 AM   #203
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Ya think? I always thought the heat treat made a huge difference.

The tie rod version they are doing is 1.75" 188. You think with the diameter difference that might be stronger then the sleeved 1.25?

I know we had trouble this year with a sleeved 1.5" draglink, but it wasnt chromo, and my freind that built it, didnt but his sleeve to the inserts and plug weld them together. He tore the 1.5" 120 wall apart right at the tubesert. You could see the sleeve was recessed about an inch.

I ended up trail fixing it with the ready relder by slitting 8" of 1.75" 120 and sleeving over the break.
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Unread 11-26-2008, 05:54 PM   #204
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I think after assembly, heat treatment would make the rods stronger. But, I think a 1.25" .213 wall will be stronger than the 1.25" .120 wall they offer. If I went up to the 1.75" I would still sleeve something (don't know what would fit in there? I still may get a Spidertrax tie rod to see how it does!

Rock Dawg,

I used FKB-HRSMX12T 7/8" -14 high misalignment heims from Polyperformance
Same tubes for the tie rod and I got those at Aircraft Spruce in Corona, CA

Material List Draglink:
Chromoly Tube 1.25" - .120 wall
Chromoly Tube 1" - .188 wall sleeve
7/8" -18 Tube inserts 2 x LH thread & 2 x RH thread - Tube ID 1"
7/8" -18 Jam nuts 2 x LH thread & 2 x RH thread
Napa Tie Rod End LH thread PN 269-2442
Napa Tie Rod End RH thread PN 269-2441
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Unread 11-26-2008, 09:13 PM   #205
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it was fun wheeling with you out there, Gerald.
your jeep sure worked well for a maiden voyage. did you get all of the bolts tightened up?
i'll be back out there tomorrow night for some more. is everyone holding up well. any breakage or anything to speak of?

did you make the waterfall in the first picture, or did you need the winch?
that is a sketchy spot.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 07:42 AM   #206
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Hey Erik,

I found where that nut and washer you found came from. Upper shock mounts.
The control arms are still loose but I just keep checking them.

I left Tuesday after we did Sunbonnet and the clouds were just strating to get ominous. Joel broke a front stub but otherwise pretty uneventful. Just a lot of fun!

At the end of Wrecking Ball we all attached the winch in case we could not drive up it. I used it a little.

I'm trying to get back out there on Sunday.

Thanks for helping me through my shake down run. It was way to much fun!


Gerald
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Unread 11-27-2008, 09:20 AM   #207
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i see Biker Blaine in those pictures! what was his input on your glorious rig?
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Unread 11-27-2008, 09:35 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provelogear View Post
Hey Erik,

I found where that nut and washer you found came from. Upper shock mounts.
The control arms are still loose but I just keep checking them.

I left Tuesday after we did Sunbonnet and the clouds were just strating to get ominous. Joel broke a front stub but otherwise pretty uneventful. Just a lot of fun!

At the end of Wrecking Ball we all attached the winch in case we could not drive up it. I used it a little.

I'm trying to get back out there on Sunday.

Thanks for helping me through my shake down run. It was way to much fun!


Gerald
are you going out Sunday to play, or just to hang out?

i saw on weather.com that there would be rain out there. i hope it wasnt too bad.
those trails might be fun in the rain, as long as there was no flooding.
it was my pleasure to help with the "shake-down" run. lets do it again.
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Unread 11-27-2008, 11:00 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6 View Post
i see Biker Blaine in those pictures! what was his input on your glorious rig?
He was super helpful! He was working on a TJ that was going thru a similar change and that was really helpful.
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Unread 12-21-2008, 06:44 PM   #210
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OK, So it was dry this week end and I had a chance to start working on it for New Year's Day runs.

Some details got left out since I was so pressed for time getting it ready for Thanksgiving.

The Skidrow engine/tranny skid was modified to work wth the 3 link. The orginal engine/tran skid attached to the stoc k front lower control arm mount. Obviously, thats not going to work since the mount is now gone. What I did was rip the skid lengthwise and the lap weld the cut off piece on. made another brace for the front. I know it works well as you can see the Jeep is fully turtled on the skid.



I paid to have the exhaust done. The best $180 ever spent. It would have taken me forever to build it. I did learn how they do it from an old timer. He basically bent a welding rod how I wanted the exhaust to run and bent the pipe to match it. It took him 15 minutes to install the system. It is a little louder than I wanted but there isn't a lot of room there.



The rear end I utilized the stock sway bar and it seems to work pretty well.

Measurements:

Ground to the bottom of diffs (37" tires) is 12.25"
Ground to bottom of axle tubes is 16"

Not much hangs down but whatever does the rocks try to rub off.
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Last edited by Savvy; 02-17-2009 at 06:11 PM..
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