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Unread 12-26-2009, 02:35 AM   #1
zachjf
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2 wire LEDs to 3 wire conversion (write up)

Ok, first off, I know there are a few different write ups on this subject but none of them use a pcb setup nor do they explain in all that great a detail the correct position of the diodes or resistors or even have a wiring diagram to go by. Credit goes to TJeli and Humboldt for posting the part numbers and basic idea for this write up.

On that note, here goes!

First of all you'll need a few supplies;
(4) rectifier diodes, part # IN4004 -come in 2 packs from Radio Shack, .99c per pack
(4) 560ohm resistors, part # 271-1116 -come in a 5 pack card, .99c per card
(1) 2 pack small square PCB's, part #276-148, 1 board will make both sides
sharp razor knife
wire cutters
soldering iron, I use a 15/30 watt from radio shack
solder, 60/40 rosin core in .032 diameter
22gauge stranded wire, preferably 2 different colors to keep track of where the wires go after covering the PCB
heat shrink tubing large enough to slip over the finished PCB

Start by scoring the PCB board with a razor knife on the front (copper) side of the board, repeat this step on the exact opposite side of the pcb, then move 4 solder holes away and repeat the scoring process on both sides. Take your wire cutters and snap the unused edges off till your left with this, the center piece;



First thing to do is determine the layout of your diodes and resistor on the pcb, be sure to leave some space between each component so you have room to work and solder.

Each pcb will have (1) resistor and (2) rectifier diodes, (1) rectifier diode by itself and (1) rectifier inline with the resistor. The two rectifier diodes connect together at one point, that being the output side of your pcb to the black wire from your LED pigtail.

Easiest way to do this is layout the location of all your connections, hold the pieces to the pcb with tape then flip it over and solder the connections. Make sure that your diode and resistor bodies are on the side without the copper around the holes and that he legs of the diode/resistor come through the side with the copper around the holes, the solder adheres to the copper and not the bare plastic.

Its hard to see in this picture but the rectifier diodes have a silver ring around one end, you want the silver ring ends pointing twards the point where the diodes connect (see schematic below). If your using the radio shack diodes then the end WITHOUT the silver stripe is where power is fed to, the end WITH the silver stripe is the end it flows through, if you reverse this then your pcb WILL NOT work.



Once you flip the board over your going to solder the connections together to allow the current to flow through either 1 path(markers only) or the other (turn signals only) or both in the case of using your marker lights and turn signals together. At this point your going to solder the ends of the rectifier and diode to the pcb so it looks something like this;



Notice that when I soldered to the board I connected each circuit to 2 of the solder holes. In the instance of the connection between the resistor and the diode it was necessary to complete the circuit and for the ends where the wires will attach later it is so when you solder the wires you have a larger mounting point for the wire to adhere to.

Be sure to solder the ends of the individual rectifier diodes together. This step is important as the power from the resistor/diode side feeds low power to the marker lights and the diode only side feeds full power for the turn signals. The two sides must meet up at the end where your + power wire feeds the light as shown above.

Once you have your pcb all soldered together you can begin adding the wires that will attach to your factory harness. On mine I used 22gauge red and green since thats the same gauge as the pigtails for my marker lights. I soldered green to the turn signal side and red to the marker light side. This is not critical and was simply personal choice. I would recommend using 2 different colored wires as it makes it easy to identify them when installing. Next step is to connect the black wire from your marker lights pigtail to the point where you soldered the two rectifier diodes together. Once your done it will look like this;


Once your finished its time to test the circuit to make sure everything works. Start by connecting the pigtail to the LED light first, then temporarily connect the white wire from the pigtail to a good ground, connect your marker side wire (resistor/diode side) to your Jeep marker light circuit wire, connect your turn signal wire (diode side) to your Jeep turn signal circuit wire.

If everything is hooked up correctly, when you turn your marker lights on the light will run at approximately half power and when the turn signals are used the light will alternate between half and full power just like your stock lights did.

When your marker lights are not on the signals will flash between full power and off just like your stock lights did.

Here is mine on the low power marker light setting;


And here it is on the high power turn signal setting;


Its hard to tell from the pictures but the marker light is actually about 1/2 as bright as the turn signal.

If everything works properly then use tape or heat shrink tubing to cover your pcb and install permanently. On mine I covered the pcb with hot glue then after it had dried I used heat shrink over that and a bit of electrical tape to make the pcb water proof and loom to protect the wiring. Now create an exact copy of the one you just made for the other side as you need to two of these. Any questions post them here and I'll do my best to help.

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Last edited by zachjf; 12-26-2009 at 09:38 AM..
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Unread 12-26-2009, 06:27 AM   #2
johnny9
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you can never have eough info on this subject for sure..
this is what i used and it was simple and works great after a few months time..still working great..

www.blackgto.com/jeep/turnsignal.pdf

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/he...inkers-884308/
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build- http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...hread-1065655/
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Unread 12-26-2009, 08:24 AM   #3
nriver
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Nice work....
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Unread 12-26-2009, 08:40 AM   #4
Humboldt
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Always ment to do a write up on this. I didnt take pics when I did it a couple years ago and REALLY didnt want to take it all apart Great write up!
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Unread 12-26-2009, 09:10 AM   #5
zachjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
Always ment to do a write up on this. I didnt take pics when I did it a couple years ago and REALLY didnt want to take it all apart Great write up!
Ahhh so it was your write up I got the part numbers from. Credit coming your way for savin me the hassle of figuring out what parts to use!
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Unread 12-26-2009, 09:19 AM   #6
Humboldt
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I wasn't the first. Heres where I got the part numbers when I first started looking at making it work:

Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Sniperfab tube fender and crusher corner pics...
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Unread 12-26-2009, 09:31 AM   #7
zachjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
I wasn't the first. Heres where I got the part numbers when I first started looking at making it work:

Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Sniperfab tube fender and crusher corner pics...
Thats the problem with forum search functions. I checked here, pirate, jeepsunlimited and google then found your write up by typing in "LED wiring" and sifting through the endless posts that didn't even apply to what i was lookin for.
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Unread 01-14-2010, 12:56 PM   #8
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Late to the party, here, but thanks
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Unread 02-24-2010, 01:15 AM   #9
bmxrules39
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will this work with non LED blinkers? This seems simpler and easier than the relay mod.
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Unread 02-24-2010, 02:38 AM   #10
zachjf
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It should work just fine, the resistors simply cut the current in half on the marker circuit and the diodes block the current from back feeding into each other
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Unread 02-24-2010, 08:53 AM   #11
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Actually let me chime in here with a question to find out whether this write-up will solve my problem, as I'm something of an idiot when it comes to electricity.

Due to the installation of MetalClaok tube fenders, I used a hole saw in my grill and installed JK front turn signal housings into which I fixed my factory front turn signals, still using the factory bulbs. Works beautifully. For the side markers I took the LED set I got from MetalCloak and installed them into the hood on either side of the hood latches, like so:



That picture is of everything in mid-flash. The LED's are the classic 2-wire type, a positive and a ground. For the positive feed I tapped the positive lead from the marker lights (I think it was the green wire with a black stripe--I assumed that was the ground the first time, but after they failed to light, I swapped it to the other wire and got the flash). The factory bulb remains in the marker light socket to prevent rapid flashing. The positive leads from the two LED's on one side were both spliced together to the wire that was tapped to the positive lead from the marker light, rinse and repeat on the other side. The grounds were spliced together into a ground wire to the factory ground screw at the center of the base of the hood. For reference, the marker light positive lead tap is done at the front of the engine bay right before the light socket itself, and 14-gauge wire (overkill I think but all I had on hand at the time) is run back along the fender, up the center channel of the hood, and across to the ends from there.

The problem I have is in regards to the behavior: the LED's flash and therefore work great as turn signals, but they remain dark instead of lighting up as a marker light as expected. The factory light bulb itself still lights up and stays lit up when the running/head lights are on, but the LED's remain dark. When I hit the signals or emergency flashers, though, the LED's light up nice and bright like nothing is wrong. Having never paid attention to the way they behave from the factory and from what I've read in this thread, I guess I expect that they stay on with the marker lights, and they achieve their blinking by simply going dark and then coming on again, going dark and coming on, as compared to turning on with the marker light and then getting brighter with the turn signal... This would work fine for me. I don't need them to get bright to flash, though that'd be fine, too. But it's not working like that either way.

Do I need to do this resistor/diode fix, then? And does that mean tapping into the factory front turn signal positive lead as well as the side marker positive lead? Am I just confused all the way around.

Help is much appreciated
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Unread 02-24-2010, 01:44 PM   #12
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k I got the whole setup and used the part number you gave, but I can't get any of my resistors to give me any power, I've flipped them around and tested every one.

Do these cut too much power to run a regular light?
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Unread 02-24-2010, 02:40 PM   #13
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no, an led uses far less power than a normal filament bulb does. You say you swapped the resistors around but the diodes are what you need to be careful with because power only flows one way through them. The end of the diode with the faint silver stripe must be orientated the correct way otherwise power is stopped and the light doesn't work.
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Unread 02-24-2010, 02:57 PM   #14
bmxrules39
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I just went and bought a 10 w resistor and I'm barely able to make the bulb glow. What can I do? Do I need a 30w resistor?

I have set the diodes aside for now, I'm just runing a resistor straight to a grounded light
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Unread 02-24-2010, 03:23 PM   #15
zachjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firekite View Post
Actually let me chime in here with a question to find out whether this write-up will solve my problem, as I'm something of an idiot when it comes to electricity.

Due to the installation of MetalClaok tube fenders, I used a hole saw in my grill and installed JK front turn signal housings into which I fixed my factory front turn signals, still using the factory bulbs. Works beautifully. For the side markers I took the LED set I got from MetalCloak and installed them into the hood on either side of the hood latches, like so:



That picture is of everything in mid-flash. The LED's are the classic 2-wire type, a positive and a ground. For the positive feed I tapped the positive lead from the marker lights (I think it was the green wire with a black stripe--I assumed that was the ground the first time, but after they failed to light, I swapped it to the other wire and got the flash). The factory bulb remains in the marker light socket to prevent rapid flashing. The positive leads from the two LED's on one side were both spliced together to the wire that was tapped to the positive lead from the marker light, rinse and repeat on the other side. The grounds were spliced together into a ground wire to the factory ground screw at the center of the base of the hood. For reference, the marker light positive lead tap is done at the front of the engine bay right before the light socket itself, and 14-gauge wire (overkill I think but all I had on hand at the time) is run back along the fender, up the center channel of the hood, and across to the ends from there.

The problem I have is in regards to the behavior: the LED's flash and therefore work great as turn signals, but they remain dark instead of lighting up as a marker light as expected. The factory light bulb itself still lights up and stays lit up when the running/head lights are on, but the LED's remain dark. When I hit the signals or emergency flashers, though, the LED's light up nice and bright like nothing is wrong. Having never paid attention to the way they behave from the factory and from what I've read in this thread, I guess I expect that they stay on with the marker lights, and they achieve their blinking by simply going dark and then coming on again, going dark and coming on, as compared to turning on with the marker light and then getting brighter with the turn signal... This would work fine for me. I don't need them to get bright to flash, though that'd be fine, too. But it's not working like that either way.

Do I need to do this resistor/diode fix, then? And does that mean tapping into the factory front turn signal positive lead as well as the side marker positive lead? Am I just confused all the way around.

Help is much appreciated
From what i gather you basically want your LED's on the hood to work as both markers and flashers? If so then yes, this mod will allow you to do that. This mod makes it so they run at 1/2 power when the markers are on and flash between full and 1/2 brightness when the turn signals are used. If you want the LED markers on your hood to go off completely to flash it would require relays and some extra wiring but it is do-able, let me know and I can post up a wiring diagram for you to follow.
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