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2" lift with 35's?

23K views 210 replies 47 participants last post by  toximus 
#1 ·
Can I put 35's on my jeep with a 2" lift if I get some low profile fender flares, something like Metal Cloak sells?
 
#3 ·
According to metal cloak you probably could, the problem will be: you will need to add enough bump stops to limit the uptravel and you'll probably lose some steering. These are my assumptions not facts.i have a 2" lift with 33's and I've already bent both fenders,I wanted metal cloak,just haven't had the $.

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#6 ·
IMO the "gains" MC claims might be legit measurements at a specific point but overall are misleading. There can be a lot of things that are the limiting factor and if you create clearance one place but do nothing for the other interference points you aren't really accomplishing anything. You'd have to go with true highlines (e.g. PS Defender XC) to try this and even then I think you are going to end up bumpstopping out a good chunk of your uptravel. If that works for you that's your choice but personally spending 5-10k on my jeep and ending up with less uptravel than I had with OEM setup is not a plan I'd pursue. No offense but most times when people ask a question like this it is motivated by a desire to do something cheaply. There is nothing cheap about running 35s. If budget is an issue put on 2" coil spacers or coils and 1.25" body lift, buy some quality shocks of the appropriate length and run 33s.
 
#7 ·
They also quote their clearance "improvement" from the bottom of the lip of the factory plastic flare and not from the metal fender. I'd like to see how much clearance you get from the metal fender to theirs. I do like the look of their flat fenders but I'm not sure they are worth the money. I mainly like that they claim you can keep the factory airbox as I'm sick of dealing with CARB stickers in CA and would rather have a stock engine bay on the Jeep.
 
#10 ·
I'm running 35s on a 2.5" lift with stock fenders. Is it ideal? Not really, I did lose some steering and a lot of uptravel. A lot of people will say that there's a lot more involved in running 35s and they're absolutely right about that. Beyond just the lift, you're also getting into regearing/new axle territory, etc. If you're like me and it's a DD with occasional wheeling, the aesthetic improvement of 35s is absolutely worth it. For actual offroad ability, I haven't had any trouble with the limited uptravel, but I don't crawl anything, just go through mud, etc. I also wish I had done the regearing at the same time as the tires. Do your thing man, just my 2 cents
 
#22 ·
I'm running MetalCloak front arched, 1.25" bl, 3.75" bs, and 33s, using stock steering stops and stock bumpstops. My rear stock fenders do rub at full flex (any good threads on cutting these open and still having a flair and inner fenderwall? Or good aftermarket options?), but the front doesn't rub the fenders at all even full flex with full turn. The drivers side Antirock arm does rub slightly under certain conditions but I suspect that's do to the axle not being centered properly.

I'll be adding a OME 2" suspension lift this Spring so we'll see how clearance is with 35s after that if I can barrow a tire from someone.
 
#27 ·
Adjustable lowers look like RE.

Take a pic of the drive shaft side of the axles showing the control arms
Hopefully these are what you wanted. Also my knowledge of terminology is lacking, when you say 'adjustable lowers' are you talking about the control arms? And what is RE?
 

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#37 ·
First let me say thank you to everyone here who is helping out the OP. Truly why Jeepforum is one of my favorites. :2thumbsup: A great community. One that we have been a part of since we first came on the seen many years ago.

And, since we had our first 2000 sq ft shop with just 3 products, we have had the benefit of customer support and word of mouth to sell products, not advertising. The only marketing we did is support of a couple forums, and a small ad in the back of JP (despite our competitors doing full page ads).

That being said... here are some early threads that focused on our TJ fenders and our claims when we were a new company. Nothing has been edited, both the good and the bad are here for better understanding by all.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/metalcloak-clearance-diagrams-metalcloak-vs-others-842196/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/arched-tube-fender-exposed-start-finish-review-863906/

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f362/tjs-with-metal-cloak-fenders-lets-see-them-256632-2.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/35s-with-stock-suspension-can-i-do-it-137828.html

Thank you again to the OP for the thread and for all your input. We've been fortunate as a company to have many supporters - and with that comes some detractors - which we don't mind at all. We understand our products are not for everyone.

If you don't like our products, no problem. There are a lot of great companies out there with great products. But statements about our advertising being "misleading" - is, unfortunately, misleading. :wolverine:

As a note, I think biffgnar is an example of why this forum is so successful - his dedication to the sport and to the community is undeniable as are all of you.

:cheers2:
 
#43 ·
We understand our products are not for everyone.
But they are for ME! Great quality AND customer service! I have been very happy with mine, Great job Metalcloak.

:wolverine:
 
#38 ·
Matsonian, nice fun broadcast tonight! Congrats.

I've really enjoyed my arched fenders since I got them 2012. I'm going to have to pull them this summer to recoat them as the powder coat has really taken a beating the last few winters. Now that I'm looking to build to 35s I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to be happy with the 2" lift I also bought and raising the towers. Would you be able to list the bumpstops and steering stops on your arched fenders with 35s, 2" suspension and 1.25" BL, not taking into account stops for things like trackbar? If you don't have that, would you be able to list the stops for your advertised no lift and 35s? Thanks!
 
#40 ·
Thank you for the kind words Matson. I understand that the numbers you quote are a real measurement, I just believe there are other things that go in to it rather than a single discrete measurement taken in the most advantageous location and fashion or a vague concept of something "fitting" or "working". You may believe I am wrong and perhaps I am, but I absolutely think there is a lot that goes into a setup that a lot of less knowledgeable consumers have no idea of when looking at advertising and thinking they can do something. I'm sure you guys are doing good business regardless of what I think and there are other MC products I would run. Just not the fenders.
 
#41 ·
1 thing i would suggest is figure out exactly where you want to go with your build , what kind of wheeling are you planning on doing and make an overall plan to get there. It really sucks the cash out of you when you have to change what you just did in order to do something else you want to do and find out the 2 dont work together. Alot of research is the key.
I just finished mine last fall and wasted alot of money on parts i never used. 4" lift 1" body spacer on 37's


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#48 ·
a single discrete measurement taken from the most advantageous location and fashion or a vague concept of something "fitting" or "working"
Don't be such a pessimist. LOL. :2thumbsup:

You are, however, absolutely right when you say that there is more that goes into building a great rig.

But, I will stand behind the basic concept that you can run 35" tires with our fenders and no lift. Period. And for better articulation, we recommend at least a 2" budget boost. For most, though, this is an initial step... a chance to get started... towards that ultimate dream Jeep.

As a note... this video (the first one I ever did - lol) discusses our fenders and the overall clearance experienced. I'll post it here for others to view since I'm sure you are already familiar with it.

 
#49 ·
....
But, I will stand behind the basic concept that you can run 35" tires with our fenders and no lift. Period. And for better articulation, we recommend at least a 2" budget boost. ...
How much uptravel should one expect with 35s and no lift? Assuming that it would be in the fender well area, where is the first point of interference?
 
#59 ·
DISCLAIMER: I'm not in anyway sticking up for MC or suggesting you buy their products. I happened to buy the full set when I was a freshman in college because I thought they looked cool and wanted more room for my 35s and refused to lift anymore.

For those wondering about actual measurements vs real Hi-lines. The MC's fair decently to Rokmen true Hi-lines. When I Hi-lined the MC Arched flare I ended up netting roughly 2.5" over the rokmen. The MCs were raised 4" leaving the Rokmen with 1.5" over the MC non Hi-lined. Thats not terrible for something that is bolt on with no cutting required.

NOTE: The measurement was taken via wheel travel on a 40" tire ground to tire using a fork-lift.

Here is a photo of how it was raised.

DSC03197 by Ali Al-Daouk, on Flickr

Just throwing that out there since I had read earlier on in the thread about someone wondering how much clearance one could gain by doing it.

I used Rokmen because that is all I had available to compare it to. The reason for comparison was; I couldnt decide If I wanted to buy Hi-lines vs Hi-lining what I already had when I made the move to build for 40s.

For those wondering about up/down travel, I have 5"up 7" down currently for daily driving. It is setup however for an even 6/6. I just like to sit lower, and that is the lowest it will go before it is uncomfortable or sitting on bumps.

For the OPs question. You can, but as said, not very well. I did 35s on stock everything (IE; Steering, fenders, brakes, axles, gears) and a 2" lift for years. Daily driven too. Lucky enough to never break off-road, never had any issues steering or stopping. But I can remember once those MCs and shock extensions went on I quickly realized how nice a jeep can ride if setup properly and never wanted to go back to anything less than 5" of up ever again.
 
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