[rollercam351]

(TJ's ONLY PLEASE) I wanted to create a thread that showed the pro's and con's of a 2" (or higher) body lift vs. 1"(or even stock hieght), not a bickering match for people who "dont like them cause there ugly" or for people who think they raise the center of gravity more than a suspension lift of the same height (obviously false) just a bare bones tech thread. Please post your pics, showing: frame/body gaps, clearances with ranges of tire sizes and paired suspension lifts, thanks.

p.s. if you think there ugly post some pics and prove your point

[BradyAds.com]

Already done!!

Use the search button

[rollercam351]

really? cause the only ones i can find are laaaame, tons of arguing with little or no relevance to the original topic

[BYuen]

I mean... it's a body lift... Everyone has their own different opinions on them. Some won't even touch a 1" bl with a 20 foot pole. You'll be fine with a 2" bl, but the question is if it is worth the cons? Here are just my opinions why I would not run a 2" body lift on my rig... Obviously, the greater the body lift will cause increased gap between shifter linkages and engine/body relationship.

I would find that real annoying for any differences over 1.25". I have the 5spd. Back when before I had a sye and cv ds, I ran a 1" transfer case drop. This shortened the length of the tranny shifter causing weird shifting characteristics. I can't imagine having a 2" bl and what that would do to the shifter locations in the Jeep. I also wouldn't like the idea of the engine being 2" lower than where it should be. Of course for a 1" bl you can always match it with a 1" motor mount lift. I guess you could also run a 1"mml with a 2" bl to help offset the difference.

Once again just my opinon, there's really no need to run a 2" body lift unless you are really trying to clear some big tires w/o working with the suspension. With a bl greater than 1.25", I believe that any clearance gains will not outweigh the bad looks, clearance issues, and unnecessary lateral strain on the body mount bolts (just something about the tub separating from the frame in a roll/crash scares the heck out of me).

I think a 1" bl is just right if you are going to run one. Mine works well so I can clear 35s with my current suspension without having to adjust the bumpstops, allows clearance for my Rokmen gas tank skid (gaining 1.5" of clearance back there), gets my rockers a little higher away from the ground, enables me to have a 1" mml gaining some further clearance away from the rocks, and also enables me to do a tummy tuck or gives more clearance for a potential Atlas or Rubi 241 swap.

There's really no need for pictures of body lifts... They all look the same Just pucks between the frame and body.

EDIT:
Also, I would suggest starting a thread in the picture request section if you are just looking for pics of different suspension/body lift combinations

[TheBoogieman]

[Dravintoad]

Originally Posted by BYuen

I mean... it's a body lift... Everyone has their own different opinions on them. Some won't even touch a 1" bl with a 20 foot pole. You'll be fine with a 2" bl, but the question is if it is worth the cons? Here are just my opinions why I would not run a 2" body lift on my rig... Obviously, the greater the body lift will cause increased gap between shifter linkages and engine/body relationship.

I would find that real annoying for any differences over 1.25". I have the 5spd. Back when before I had a sye and cv ds, I ran a 1" transfer case drop. This shortened the length of the tranny shifter causing weird shifting characteristics. I can't imagine having a 2" bl and what that would do to the shifter locations in the Jeep. I also wouldn't like the idea of the engine being 2" lower than where it should be. Of course for a 1" bl you can always match it with a 1" motor mount lift. I guess you could also run a 1"mml with a 2" bl to help offset the difference.

Once again just my opinon, there's really no need to run a 2" body lift unless you are really trying to clear some big tires w/o working with the suspension. With a bl greater than 1.25", I believe that any clearance gains will not outweigh the bad looks, clearance issues, and unnecessary lateral strain on the body mount bolts (just something about the tub separating from the frame in a roll/crash scares the heck out of me).

I think a 1" bl is just right if you are going to run one. Mine works well so I can clear 35s with my current suspension without having to adjust the bumpstops, allows clearance for my Rokmen gas tank skid (gaining 1.5" of clearance back there), gets my rockers a little higher away from the ground, enables me to have a 1" mml gaining some further clearance away from the rocks, and also enables me to do a tummy tuck or gives more clearance for a potential Atlas or Rubi 241 swap.

There's really no need for pictures of body lifts... They all look the same Just pucks between the frame and body.

EDIT:
Also, I would suggest starting a thread in the picture request section if you are just looking for pics of different suspension/body lift combinations

Well said. Aside from the misconception that you need a BL to run a MML, I agree.

[TheBoogieman]

Pros= more clearance without messing up driveline angles.
Cons= ugly.

[Niceface]

I run a 3" body lift. Not the best choice, but I did it under a lack of education. I dont mind the looks, and it's allowing me to run 35"s with plenty of flex on the trails.

Once I save a few more coins I'll cut the 3" down to a 1.5" and remove the 4" pro crap, and go for a FabTech LA 6".

The body gap on the side picture isn't very noticable while running 35's. This picture was taken this morning with my daily driving 33's on.

Also the front bumper will soon come off and the gap will be covered up by winch and custom front armor. As for the back, you cant even notice the space.

[TheBoogieman]

Originally Posted by Niceface

I run a 3" body lift. Not the best choice, but I did it under a lack of education. I dont mind the looks, and it's allowing me to run 35"s with plenty of flex on the trails.

Once I save a few more coins I'll cut the 3" down to a 1.5" and remove the 4" pro crap, and go for a FabTech LA 6".

The body gap on the side picture isn't very noticable while running 35's. This picture was taken this morning with my daily driving 33's on.

Also the front bumper will soon come off and the gap will be covered up by winch and custom front armor. As for the back, you cant even notice the space.

You did a good job of covering the gaps with the tube bumper and side steps.
p.s. Did you mount the side steps higher up on the frame rails?

[Niceface]

Originally Posted by Theboogieman

You did a good job of covering the gaps with the tube bumper and side steps.
p.s. Did you mount the side steps higher up on the frame rails?

Ya. I cut the BL puck in half, and mounted the step side bracket in between the puck for a level look. This coveres up the gap around the vehicle.

Once I go to rock sliders and a 6" LA kit, I'll take the tube sides off and use the 1.5" BL puck I already cut in half!

[LandoCommando]

Originally Posted by Niceface

Ya. I cut the BL puck in half, and mounted the step side bracket in between the puck for a level look.

That CANT be good.
When you put weight on the step can you fell it flex at the mount?

[LandoCommando]

On a second note, I run a 2 inch BL and I like it for one reason: Access.
With a 2" gap you can fit most of your arm in between the frame and the body. It makes for easier wrenching, and really, really easy cleaning.

And really the only ugly part of the BL is the rear wheel wells and it can be made to look better. The gap lets you see the tank and straight through to the other side but if you buy some gap guards to cover it I bet people wont even know its there.

[Niceface]

Originally Posted by LandoCommando

That CANT be good.
When you put weight on the step can you fell it flex at the mount?

Not at all. I rarely use the step, it's only for the wifey. And she's a buck-thirty. I've jumped on the step though when I first installed it to test it (I'm 180lbs.). solid as a rock. No problems.

[2005X]

Originally Posted by Dravintoad

Well said. Aside from the misconception that you need a BL to run a MML, I agree.

but you do need a BL to run certain bellyup skids

[Dravintoad]

Originally Posted by 2005X

but you do need a BL to run certain bellyup skids

Or a BFH