2.5-4.0 swap is underway!! - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 172 Old 11-21-2013, 08:15 PM
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nawarsaleh3 View Post

Where can i find these after market mounts from, the dealer wants outstanding prices!!!!
Also swapping a 4.0L into my 97 Tj, still looking for the ax15 with a 23 spline 231 t-case?
The yellow aftermarket mounts in the pictures are the engine brackets and rubber mounts. Those look to be brown dog. The black ones are factory frame mounts you will need to weld on.

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post #152 of 172 Old 11-22-2013, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nawarsaleh3 View Post

Where can i find these after market mounts from, the dealer wants outstanding prices!!!!
Also swapping a 4.0L into my 97 Tj, still looking for the ax15 with a 23 spline 231 t-case?
http://browndogindustries.com/

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post #153 of 172 Old 11-23-2013, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nawarsaleh3 View Post

hey guys so i been doing some research on here and everyone is telling me i should go with the 5.2 or 5.9 Dodge motor instead of swapping the 2.5L to a 4.0L......

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/9...-swap-1814738/

Having done this swap I agree, I wish I would have went V8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nawarsaleh3 View Post

Where can i find these after market mounts from, the dealer wants outstanding prices!!!!
Also swapping a 4.0L into my 97 Tj, still looking for the ax15 with a 23 spline 231 t-case?
That yellow ones are from Brown Dog as linked above. The black ones are from the dealer and part numbers are on page two. If the price has went up you could try making your own.

Sent from my phone where grammar isn't easy.
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post #154 of 172 Old 04-30-2014, 03:45 PM
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Im not interested in trading. sorry

-JRRJR
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post #155 of 172 Old 04-30-2014, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
RnEmOvr
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Im not interested in trading. sorry
Huh?
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post #156 of 172 Old 08-02-2014, 10:55 PM
1ofakind
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I started this swap a few days ago, I got a donor 1998 jeep wrangler with the 4.0 with ax-15 and I have a 1997 with a 2.5 auto.

I have a question, can I keep my harness for my cluster and dash in my tub, and just use the 4.0 motor harness and plug it into the new ecu?

Also since my jeep had the auto transmission would I need to cut out the floor at all?

can I still use my drive shafts or should I get a new front and rear? I was going to do a sye since I had to change my input shaft anyways. I have a new front I can use from a friend but needs all new u joints.

awesome write up I read the whole thing a couple days ago to help me get started now my 2.5 motor will be out tomorrow evening! so pumped!
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post #157 of 172 Old 08-03-2014, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ofakind View Post
I started this swap a few days ago, I got a donor 1998 jeep wrangler with the 4.0 with ax-15 and I have a 1997 with a 2.5 auto.

I have a question, can I keep my harness for my cluster and dash in my tub, and just use the 4.0 motor harness and plug it into the new ecu?

Also since my jeep had the auto transmission would I need to cut out the floor at all?

can I still use my drive shafts or should I get a new front and rear? I was going to do a sye since I had to change my input shaft anyways. I have a new front I can use from a friend but needs all new u joints.

awesome write up I read the whole thing a couple days ago to help me get started now my 2.5 motor will be out tomorrow evening! so pumped!
You do not need to swap the tub harness, only the engine harness.

I don't think you would need to cut for the tub.

Are you swapping transmissions or keeping your auto?

As for shafts you may be able to keep the old ones. I did few mods with my swap that required a new shaft.

Sent from my phone where grammar isn't easy.
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post #158 of 172 Old 08-03-2014, 12:57 PM
1ofakind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RnEmOvr View Post
You do not need to swap the tub harness, only the engine harness.

I don't think you would need to cut for the tub.

Are you swapping transmissions or keeping your auto?

As for shafts you may be able to keep the old ones. I did few mods with my swap that required a new shaft.

Sent from my phone where grammar isn't easy.

Nope I'm using the ax-15 from the donor and swapping the input shafts since the tcase he is giving me doesn't have 4hi. Awesome so I'll leave my 2.5 harness with it.

I see you didn't use your factory belly pan, will I have any issues if I use my factory 2.5 belly pan (incase I don't get the 4.0 pan) with the new tranny with the lineup of the tcase and rear diff?
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post #159 of 172 Old 08-03-2014, 11:06 PM
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Just a few comments from my 97 swap:
The difference in motor mount location is about 5.5" farther forward, if you use the existing center pan as the point to start your locating. Doing so causes about a 1.5" too long rear drive shaft when using a NV3550 on std mount. I believe the AX-15 is the same. I soft bolted everything together from T/C forward to locate the motor mounts.

If you replace the input shaft on the T/C, you may have a howler.....I did. I also had an alignment problem with the linkage and went to the Novak cable shifter....best decision made in this swap.

The front drive shaft was okay on mine, but I have a HP D30. I also have zero lift over stock.

As was stated before, all you need to replace is the engine wiring harness and PCM. Plug and play as it's said.

You may experience a nose down attitude from the extra weight up front. I did, and went to 6 cyl front springs. No further issues.

Even most of the exhaust system is the same...easy deal.

Holler if you have any questions
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post #160 of 172 Old 08-04-2014, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfootdave View Post
Just a few comments from my 97 swap:
The difference in motor mount location is about 5.5" farther forward, if you use the existing center pan as the point to start your locating. Doing so causes about a 1.5" too long rear drive shaft when using a NV3550 on std mount. I believe the AX-15 is the same. I soft bolted everything together from T/C forward to locate the motor mounts.

If you replace the input shaft on the T/C, you may have a howler.....I did. I also had an alignment problem with the linkage and went to the Novak cable shifter....best decision made in this swap.

The front drive shaft was okay on mine, but I have a HP D30. I also have zero lift over stock.

As was stated before, all you need to replace is the engine wiring harness and PCM. Plug and play as it's said.

You may experience a nose down attitude from the extra weight up front. I did, and went to 6 cyl front springs. No further issues.

Even most of the exhaust system is the same...easy deal.

Holler if you have any questions

Awesome!! its great having guys on this site having done this swap hands on, I have a complete drive line from a 98 with the ax15, ill be putting in so depends if he includes the drive shafts and belly pan, I mean he is leaving it on a frame with a tub and some misc other stuff I requested so a guy can only assume.. right?

So if that's the case and I get the whole shebang then its just a simple swap from one frame to another I guess

So as far as the motor mounts go should I just take an angle grinder and make a nice clean cut? then weld in the new mounts? can I use the factory mounts from my donor? I don't have access to a plasma cutter or a torch...
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post #161 of 172 Old 08-04-2014, 09:34 PM
1ofakind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfootdave View Post
Just a few comments from my 97 swap:
The difference in motor mount location is about 5.5" farther forward, if you use the existing center pan as the point to start your locating. Doing so causes about a 1.5" too long rear drive shaft when using a NV3550 on std mount. I believe the AX-15 is the same. I soft bolted everything together from T/C forward to locate the motor mounts.

If you replace the input shaft on the T/C, you may have a howler.....I did. I also had an alignment problem with the linkage and went to the Novak cable shifter....best decision made in this swap.

The front drive shaft was okay on mine, but I have a HP D30. I also have zero lift over stock.

As was stated before, all you need to replace is the engine wiring harness and PCM. Plug and play as it's said.

You may experience a nose down attitude from the extra weight up front. I did, and went to 6 cyl front springs. No further issues.

Even most of the exhaust system is the same...easy deal.

Holler if you have any questions
one question for you, will I have to move my steering shaft bracket??
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post #162 of 172 Old 08-05-2014, 09:59 AM
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Yes, the steering support bracket also moves for clearance issues. You can use your donor for location.

Regarding motor mounts, the 4.0 mounts are two pieces each side, basically a stiffening liner inside the outer shell. I cut mine off a donor frame, I actually cut into the frame, cleaned and dressed them well and rewelded them into place. I did not have a plasma cutter but wished I did. I understand new mounts can be bought from a couple sources including the Jeep dealer. I used what I had with no issues.
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post #163 of 172 Old 08-05-2014, 07:30 PM
1ofakind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfootdave View Post
Yes, the steering support bracket also moves for clearance issues. You can use your donor for location.

Regarding motor mounts, the 4.0 mounts are two pieces each side, basically a stiffening liner inside the outer shell. I cut mine off a donor frame, I actually cut into the frame, cleaned and dressed them well and rewelded them into place. I did not have a plasma cutter but wished I did. I understand new mounts can be bought from a couple sources including the Jeep dealer. I used what I had with no issues.
did you also use a grinder? or how did you cut it? thanks im really excited to get this motor in, I have a 4 day weekend from work so I plan to have it all put in and hopefully running this weekend!
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post #164 of 172 Old 08-08-2014, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
RnEmOvr
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Originally Posted by 1ofakind View Post

did you also use a grinder? or how did you cut it? thanks im really excited to get this motor in, I have a 4 day weekend from work so I plan to have it all put in and hopefully running this weekend!
I just trimmed old 4cyl mounts (didn't even clean them from frame), I purchashed 6cyl mounts from dealer. Part numbers are on page 2
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post #165 of 172 Old 08-08-2014, 09:34 PM
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I used a grinder to cut them off and grind down the area to clean up the appearance. A good cutting wheel will slice right through, and then use a good flat wheel for the clean up.
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