1998 WRANGLER front seat removal [passenger] is a *****! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
hepme70
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1998 WRANGLER front seat removal [passenger] is a *****!

Opps, is that allowed?
Anyway, I have the two front bolts removed; I then thought, "this is simple."
WRONG! Evidence--if I 'm lucky enough to find some--points to the odd fact that the other two bolts are located underneath. Wow, not a good thing!

I'm going back out later and will again tackle this bi...! Help, if you know something I don't?

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post #2 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 04:09 PM
trez
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You can't possibly be confused. Right tight left loose

if the door is open close it, kick it down and make a kramer style entrance
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post #3 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 04:11 PM
Vinman
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Uhhh, slide the seat all the way forward, lift the 2 plastic bolt covers and remove the bolts.
One of the bolts is a torx.


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post #4 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 04:36 PM
NEI10
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ALL the bolts are visible and accessible from the top/inside the cab, not underneath. and yes, one (on each side) is a torx.

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post #5 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
hepme70
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Thanks men, I back on the job but I will have to buy some * tools.
Hey, I never said I was a mechanical genius.
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post #6 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 08:02 PM
silver97tj
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Hi all

I have the same year jeep, torx is a pain but 8 minutes tops and there out. make sure you antisieze them when they go back............................

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post #7 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
hepme70
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Originally Posted by silver97tj View Post
Hi all

I have the same year jeep, torx is a pain but 8 minutes tops and there out. make sure you antisieze them when they go back............................
Wow! I see a 1/4 inch play to work with on those well hidden torx heads. What kind of tool will work well with that ridiculous clearance?
What do you mean by antisieze them?
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post #8 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 08:16 PM
Benderff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hepme70

Wow! I see a 1/4 inch play to work with on those well hidden torx heads. What kind of tool will work well with that ridiculous clearance?
What do you mean by antisieze them?
Move the seat forward.....
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post #9 of 40 Old 07-21-2012, 09:09 PM
wushaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hepme70 View Post
Wow! I see a 1/4 inch play to work with on those well hidden torx heads. What kind of tool will work well with that ridiculous clearance?
What do you mean by antisieze them?
Put anti seize compound on the threads so if you ever have to remove them again then it will not be hard

Quote:
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Move the seat forward.....
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post #10 of 40 Old 07-22-2012, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
hepme70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wushaw View Post
Put anti seize compound on the threads so if you ever have to remove them again then it will not be hard



Thanks for that clever laugh! Now I can sleep tonight.
Seriously though, does anyone know the correct tool [ the best] to remove these "flat" * heads? There is only room for some type of special tool. It must be fairly long and lay low, to get in that small overhead room.

Wow, what did I get myself into???
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post #11 of 40 Old 07-22-2012, 10:17 PM
Photog2000
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It is a torx bolt. I think it is either a T50 or T55. You will need the socket type that you put on a ratchet. It helps to crawl underneath the jeep and locate the bottom of the bolts and spray some WD-40 on the threads and let it soak in for a bit too.

Why on earth are you taking the seats out of your jeep anyway?
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post #12 of 40 Old 07-22-2012, 11:14 PM
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photog2000 View Post
It is a torx bolt. I think it is either a T50 or T55. You will need the socket type that you put on a ratchet. It helps to crawl underneath the jeep and locate the bottom of the bolts and spray some WD-40 on the threads and let it soak in for a bit too.
I want to say that it's a T50...I was looking at mine today and thought it was either that, or a T45. Also, the only amendment I'd make is to use penetrating oil over WD-40...they both probably work, but I get better results when I hit stuff with penetrating oil five or six days ahead of time and then drive around for a spell.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #13 of 40 Old 07-22-2012, 11:21 PM
OhSethiO
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the only one that can be a B-tch is the torx. especially in the older TJ's. when I bed lined my tub I had to grind off both the torx then re weld them on the bottom of the tub. WITH REGULAR bolts though! no more torx.

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post #14 of 40 Old 07-22-2012, 11:26 PM
Photog2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
I want to say that it's a T50...I was looking at mine today and thought it was either that, or a T45. Also, the only amendment I'd make is to use penetrating oil over WD-40...they both probably work, but I get better results when I hit stuff with penetrating oil five or six days ahead of time and then drive around for a spell.
I personally use PB Blaster but I figured this guy would start asking questions as to what that is. Everyone knows what WD-40 is.
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post #15 of 40 Old 07-23-2012, 12:09 AM
Necko2529
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We need to fill his profile out for him, maybe it will help us help him a little better...

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