1998 TJ heater core replacement - non A/C - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > 1998 TJ heater core replacement - non A/C

Spartan Locker's at all time LOW exclusive from ROCKRIDGE FS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! Bds fox ipf 2.0 racing series shocks now available at rock

Reply
Unread 11-02-2008, 02:02 PM   #1
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
1998 TJ heater core replacement - non A/C

We pulled this apart today and can say, not a lot of fun.

I'll keep it short for now, have some pointers for the next guy doing this job:

1. Remove your door switches so they don't get broke when removing the dash.
2. The last core box screw is behind the bracket holding the tube that connects the cowl drain.
3. Even though the nuts holding the core box to the fire wall make the studs turn, continue to turn them as they will still unthread out of the core box. You can remove them from the firewall later, wire wheel and put them back into the core box.



4. The after market heater cores do not match the factory - not even close. I was not comfortable trying to adjust the piping on the heater cores so to the factory I will go.

5. I prefer not removing the steering wheel, steering column or dash for that matter. I used ratchet straps to support the dash once it has been freed from the firewall.




I'll fill in more details later, just clearing a few things up right now.


Last edited by dragginwagon406; 11-09-2008 at 12:58 PM..
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-02-2008, 02:46 PM   #2
06camarodude
Registered User
1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Adrian, MI
Posts: 1,208
Good advice! Do you plan to do a write-up for this? I checked out the instructions in my Hayne's Manual, and they definitely leave room for improvement. . .

Glad to hear everything is still coming along, even though it's not fun.
__________________
Check out my Gun Blog! Click Here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by elsapo View Post
"Do not judge, or you too will be judged." Matthew 7:1
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTJer View Post
That's a pretty decent crawl ratio, tell Matthew congrats. :2thumbsup:
06camarodude is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-02-2008, 03:12 PM   #3
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
As I said, first the aftermarket heater core is not the same quality. The price ranged from 68.95 to $74.99. Autozone and Napa carried the exact same core, just different names on the box. Interestingly, NAPA had the lower price.



Quality aside, the aftermarket core pipes were not the same angle or length. If we were to try to bend these into position, it would likely result in a stress in the cooler which would lead to a leak. Did I mention this likely the worst job possbile on the Jeep.






Last edited by dragginwagon406; 11-09-2008 at 01:20 AM..
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-02-2008, 03:52 PM   #4
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
Much of this has been covered in the FAQ and on Stu's website, but I'll add some pointers.

Disconnect and remove the battery.
Remove:

1. Center console

2. Glove box - unhook strap let hang down and remove

3. Full width trim panel at top of dash - pry this up by hand - here you can see the clips



4. Gauge cluster cover - top and bottom






5. Metal plate under the steering wheel.





6. HVAC control/radio/vent cover - remove the ash tray, 1 screw behind the ash tray, 2 screws on top of the dash and the bottom will pop out with clips similar to the top dash cover





7. 4 screws holding HVAC control to dash - the control will be tucked back through the dash when the dash is pulled from the firewall


Last edited by dragginwagon406; 11-14-2008 at 02:17 AM..
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-02-2008, 05:43 PM   #5
Tom Hartz
Registered User
1967 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Clarita, Ca.
Posts: 442
Also if you have a dash cross bar on your cage like I do, plan on taking that out. The heater core is not hard, just allot of work and not fun.

Tom
Tom Hartz is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 12:27 AM   #6
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
8. 4 nuts holding the dash to firewall on top and 2 behind passenger airbag





9. The 6 torx screws holding the dash to the door jam area

Slowly separate the dash from the firewall while looking for any wiring or hoses connecting them

10. Unplug the main wiring connectors (driver's side upper) and secondary connection (driver's side lower), passenger side connections, outer vent hoses - both sides







12. Unplug the vacuum control to the HVAC control panel(passenger's side mid)

13. Slide the HVAC control panel through the dash so the cable can remain attached to the core box

14. Unplug the HVAC control electrically - two plugs keep it attached to the main wiring harness

15. Remove the floor heater diffuser - this allows the core box to drop down - already removed in the photo below.




Last edited by dragginwagon406; 11-09-2008 at 02:05 PM..
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 12:27 AM   #7
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
16. Remove the heater box screw near the fuse panel



17. Remove the 2 screws holding the fuse panel to thefirewall - this helps the box drop away from the firewall



18. Drain the radiator and disconnect the heater core hoses

19. Remove the nuts holding the heater box to the firewall (under the hood x5)



Also, disconnect the upper vaccum line in the tee which is attached to the upper stud in this photo.



Notice the bottom stud has 2 nuts, one holding the cowl drain and a second one behind holding the box. These by far are the most difficult part of the hole job(especially with a motor mount lift/body lift). Once the first nut is removed, use a wedge to hold the cowl drain toward the engine and remove the second nut/stud.



20. Remove the heater core box from the Jeep


Last edited by dragginwagon406; 11-09-2008 at 06:03 PM..
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 12:36 AM   #8
bluejeep00
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 118
i pulled my whole dash and cage in no time but ive done it a couple of times its really not hard. also u dont have to un plug the wiring or at least i didnt ive just got 4 big holes to fill
__________________
00 TJ
3" lift kit coil spacers in the front
63mm throttal body and spacer
33 12.50 15 turxes mt's on 15 by 10 steel rims
cut fenders tuffy overhead cb no backseat
looking for any cheap parts
bluejeep00 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 12:58 AM   #9
Ryan2003TJ
Registered User
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 26
It only takes about 10 minutes to remove the steering column and it is worth it to be able to get the whole dashboard out of the Jeep and out of your way.
Ryan2003TJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 01:15 AM   #10
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
In my experience, 10 minute jobs turn into days...if it doesn't have to be molested, it's often best to leave it alone.

Moving the dash out gives plenty of room to get the core box out of the Jeep so you can replace the core.
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 10:38 AM   #11
Cowboy1629
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bloomingdale, IN
Posts: 231
Good information and pictures!
__________________
|______
|l ,[____],
l---L ľOlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--o-)_)

[I][B]...[URL="http://www.indyorv.com"]IndyORV[/URL]...[/B][/I]
Cowboy1629 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 10:45 AM   #12
Jerry Bransford
Administrator
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 61,964
Ugh, that same job is staring me in the face with my son's Grand Cherokee and it's a harder more complex job than the TJ's is. Please, let me win the lottery so I can pay someone else to do that nasty job.
__________________
Getting Savvy...

Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine

When you have a choice, buy American.
Jerry Bransford is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-09-2008, 01:00 PM   #13
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
Call me paranoid, but I think I've been smelling a little antifreeze from the wife's '03 Grand Cherokee too so I know what you mean.
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-21-2008, 11:19 PM   #14
97 SRH Jeep
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Manhattan, IL
Posts: 50
So Does the napa one not fit? Good question for me since I just picked one up and plan on tear down tomarrow...
97 SRH Jeep is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 11-23-2008, 08:57 AM   #15
dragginwagon406
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 1,277
Mine is non-A/C. The Napa/Autozone ones would not fit properly. The pipes were off enough that they would have required tweaking the pipes in multiple places to fit inside the core box. I could only imagine this leading to long term problems with leaking.

Another consideration is the efficiency in the core construction. The factory core has many more rows and fins for heat exchange. I checked the temperature drop of the coolant through the new factory core and it was between 40-45░F. Not sure the aftermarket core could duplicate that efficiency.
dragginwagon406 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.