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Old 04-29-2008, 11:31 PM   #1
RYANSTULC
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1-ton steering DONE! *pics*

Well, after waffling the stock tie-rod, and discovering my HPD44 was "odd", I set about to finally fix my front end. My D44 front end had D30 knuckles, but retained the D44 center section. This made my turning radius horrible, as the tie-rod hit the diff cover, and rubbed the track-bar bracket.
So I scored some Chevy D44 knuckles, and had them powder-coated.
Let the fun begin.

Teardown:

Passenger side:

Driver side:

Riddler diff cover:

1/4" wall DOM tie-rod

Removed the steering stabilizer braket, and welded the front solid for future ram mount location


mock-up

TRE's are 1-ton chevy. 7/8 x 18TPI. Solid.

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Old 04-29-2008, 11:38 PM   #2
RYANSTULC
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More....



Tight clearance, but it works great.



Length of drag-link is almost identical to that of the track-bar. And they are damn-near parallel.



Pitman arm from a '91 trans-am



In conclusion, tonight I drove home from the shop at speeds up to 70 MPH.
Absolutely no bump-steer, no death-wobble, and it tracks straight and true.
Also, there's no stabilizer at all. Steers with one finger on the steering wheel at highway speeds.
I'm happy, and I owe a huge thanks to my friend Brad. He's the mastermind behind this project.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:50 PM   #3
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so what is the parts list on the front axle?

I'm seeing HP D44 - from what truck?
Chromo shafts (nice!)
'91 trans am pitman arm
Chevy D44 knuckles (flat tops?)

what is your WMS to WMS and bolt pattern? Did you do some shortening or retrofitting here? what brake rotors and calipers?
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:55 PM   #4
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Not sure from what truck, but Foothills 4x4 made the axle a few years ago for the PO.
Warn Chromo Shafts
'91 trans am pitman arm ( stock arm wasn't long enough to allow for true 8" steering )
Chevy D44 knuckles (pass side is flat top),,,but after assembly, I don't need any more "high steer"
The tie rod now is about 4" higher than stock.
I'm not sure of the WMS dimension.
Bolt pattern is 5 on 5.5

Editted: Foothills 4x4 out of Cali. made the axles.

Last edited by RYANSTULC; 04-30-2008 at 08:20 AM..
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:58 PM   #5
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very nice work. rocks don't stand a chance.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:04 AM   #6
RYANSTULC
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Brake rotors / calipers are off an '87 chevy 1/2 ton.
I also replaced the calipers tonights as well. The driver's side was sticking slightly.
Pads and rotors didn't need replacing yet.
I can't wait to get my ram mounted and tap the box.
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:46 AM   #7
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Question:
Those of you with hydro assist; Are you using a bigger resevoir?
I'm planning on running a 1 1/2" x 8" ram from PSC.
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYANSTULC View Post
Question:
Those of you with hydro assist; Are you using a bigger resevoir?
I'm planning on running a 1 1/2" x 8" ram from PSC.
if i remember correctly, most of the ram setups i've seen are using a Saginaw pump (older CJ style) or a PSC pump with remote reservoir to make sure you're getting enough power. don't forget the power steering cooler

here's a writeup - different brand but same idea, but it is a YJ, so it may have a saginaw pump: http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/articles/redneck.php
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYANSTULC View Post
Not sure from what truck, but Foothills 4x4 made the axle a few years ago for the PO.
Warn Chromo Shafts
'91 trans am pitman arm ( stock arm wasn't long enough to allow for true 8" steering )
Chevy D44 knuckles (pass side is flat top),,,but after assembly, I don't need any more "high steer"
The tie rod now is about 4" higher than stock.
I'm not sure of the WMS dimension.
Bolt pattern is 5 on 5.5

Editted: Foothills 4x4 out of Cali. made the axles.
Educate me on this .. True 8" steering? Did you change the pitman arm so your steering wheel is shorter lock to lock ? Im assuming thats what its for, for running larger tires so you dont have to feel like your driving a school bus. Am i remotely close ? If not let me know .. im just curious thats all.

Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:21 PM   #10
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The pitman arm length should match the length of the knuckle ( center of axle shaft to center of tie rod on the knuckle itself). These 2 lengths should match to maximize available steering. So by getting true D44 knuckles, I needed a longer pitman arm.
The 8" reference is the amount of travel the tie rod makes along a horizontal plane. ( from dead center the tie
rod travels 4" each way ) This allowed me to regain all my steering radius. The steering-stops on the knuckles
now actually make contact. I can finally make sharp turns.
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:26 PM   #11
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ic .. cool. How did you know that particular pitman arm would fit? is it a common application or did you just shop around.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke4554 View Post
ic .. cool. How did you know that particular pitman arm would fit? is it a common application or did you just shop around.
Luckily a friend has the same pitman arm, so I knew it would work.
Although trying to find this pitman arm on the internet was like looking for a unicorn.
I ended up getting the whole steering box and pitman arm from my local junk yard for cheap.
Need a steering box from a '91 trans-am?
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:03 AM   #13
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Like the riddler diff cover, nice paint job on it too. I have one on the rear and it has held up to some hard abuse
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:14 PM   #14
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Riddler covers are the shiznit .. anyone watch the utube destruction test they had on there? .. Granted it wasnt being tested in moab on rocks but still impressive non-the-less.

Luke
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:18 PM   #15
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Have you tried stuffing the driver side front wheel to make sure the tie rod isn't going to hit the trackbar drop bracket?
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