 |
|
|
09-17-2008, 12:31 PM
|
#196
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Palm Springs, CA.
Posts: 742
|
The trail scratches/dents/scrapes will give it some much needed character of it's own! xulcuz, I just removed each side of the winch (gear set and motor), sanded the housings with 360, prepped with wax/grease remover, sprayed a coat of "bulldog" on (adhesion promoter), then top coat and clear coat...
|
|
|
09-17-2008, 04:05 PM
|
#197
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: pirate
Posts: 1,079
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkel
Have you thought about spidertrax hi9 housings? They seem reasonable, and can accept 9" housings... I am leaning towards a detroit in the rear, and a aussie or lunchbox type in the front, both with 35 spline axles, your thoughts...
Any updates on your rig?
Greg
|
Spidertrax builds can get pricey specially if you go the True Hi9 rout. If I were considering new axles I would look at Solid, cost less than Dyna and Spider.
You can save a bundle if you build using existing sixties.
I'm not a fan of Detroit's on DD Jeeps. They are great off road though. Nor would I use a "lunchbox" or that type of locker in the front. For a DD I would go with ARB's front and rear, absolutely great on road and off.
As for my rig, just waiting for shocks (today???) and limit straps.
I was going to ask you your opinion too. I'm "re-shaping" my rear corners. They are 3/16 steel and I was wondering what you would suggest for cutting them to get a clean cut?
|
|
|
09-17-2008, 06:03 PM
|
#198
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Palm Springs, CA.
Posts: 742
|
Thanks for the advice on the spidertrax and the lockers. I will check into some sixties. As far as cutting, if you plan on cutting them while they are mounted on the jeep, I would use a sawsall, a cut-off wheel, and a die grinder with a good carbide bit for the edges. Off the jeep and on the ground, then my preference would be plasma cutter. Let me know if you need to borrow any cutting equipment..
|
|
|
09-17-2008, 11:20 PM
|
#199
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: pirate
Posts: 1,079
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkel
Thanks for the advice on the spidertrax and the lockers. I will check into some sixties. As far as cutting, if you plan on cutting them while they are mounted on the jeep, I would use a sawsall, a cut-off wheel, and a die grinder with a good carbide bit for the edges. Off the jeep and on the ground, then my preference would be plasma cutter. Let me know if you need to borrow any cutting equipment..
|
I was considering using a plasma but I'm not real good with one free hand, most of my experience with a plasma is on a cutting table with an optical eye tracer. Though the corners are still on the Jeep I'm pretty sure a plasma could still be used. I do have a new pack of cut-off wheels and "torch" sawzall blades, I guess I can try that again. I didn't really like the way it came out last time though.
As for your axles, do you plan on ever going bigger that the 37's? If not, the rear 44 with some upgrades would be plenty strong and you would just have to do a front. I have ran my D44 rear and HP30 front for almost four years now without any issues. They are both built with Alloy USA axles, ARB's and trussed. I wouldn't build a 30 but a 9" front with a 44 rear works very well. I would go that rout if I wasn't planning on going to 40's.
As for sixties. Rears can be had for hundred bucks and they are everywhere. Fronts go for around five hundred for a 85-91 Ford HP or a grand for the 78-79. I'm going with a 85-91. But they are both a little hard to find here in CA, Phoenix craigslist seems to have them pop up pretty often though.
Parts for them are easy to find and fairly cheap. And if you don't mind the eight lug pattern they are fairly inexpensive to build, about the same as a D44.
Another option is a rear 14 bolt which is what I'm going with but it is to big for a tire less than about a 38, it hangs to low. You can shave them to get them up in the neighbor hood of a sixtie though. Nice thing about them is you don't have to upgrade the axles, just run the stockers. Makes for a cheap build. I figured mine to run around $1400.00 to build with disc brakes, 5:38's and a spool.
Anyway, you know how it goes with axles... the sky's the limit. I wish I could just call Solid and have the man in brown show up a week later!
|
|
|
09-18-2008, 02:25 AM
|
#200
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 2,179
|
Hey Gunkel, any suggestions for someone wanting to learn to paint?
__________________
1998 TJ, 4.0L Auto | 3" Nth Springs | JKS QDs | D30 Detroit True Trac | Nth Tummy Tucker | 35x12.50r15 Goodyear MT/R | JB Super Short SYE| 1.25" BL | Novak Tcase Shifter
Rolled Red Jeep Club Member #7
|
|
|
09-18-2008, 03:13 PM
|
#201
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Youngstown/Columbus Ohio
Posts: 1,657
|
nice work, I really like the attention to detail
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 03:25 PM
|
#202
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Palm Springs, CA.
Posts: 742
|
Jeepguy, I guess my suggestions would be the following: Ask as many different people as possible for their opinion on how to learn how to paint, there are so many different ways to get to the same end result. Pick which version you want to try and stick with it, and do the same process every time (sanding/prepping/painting etc.). Find a local automotive paint store and talk with the manager, he probably can steer you in the right direction as far as materials go and what process those materials take (each brand/system usually use a different process). Don't give up if you mess up, we all have done it, and still mess from time to time! Good luck!!
I worked on my front stinger the past few nights, I had originally planned on purchasing a PSC trail stinger but decided to fab my own since I already had extra 1/4 plate from my skid plates. I had our local metal guy bend me a piece of 1 3/4" .120 dom (cost $40), cut the steel out, welded the stinger up, and again, sanded/prepped and painted it. Mounted/welded it on this afternoon...
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 03:30 PM
|
#203
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Palm Springs, CA.
Posts: 742
|
omarambo thanks! Once I install whatever version of tube fenders I decide on, I plan on tying in the stinger to them, in the mean time here are a few more pictures..
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 03:51 PM
|
#204
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Palm Springs, CA.
Posts: 742
|
And a profile shot..
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 04:07 PM
|
#205
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,079
|
Wow, I love that look with the same colored stinger..... and winch and all that
Great work, I really admire all your work, and the attention to detail.
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 04:12 PM
|
#206
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: MD/Virginia Tech
Posts: 1,565
|
__________________
Blacksburg, VA
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 04:19 PM
|
#207
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Barbara CA
Posts: 328
|
You Da Man.
__________________
Guns don't kill people. People with mustaches kill people.
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 04:23 PM
|
#208
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 3,234
|
man you rig looks amazing, everything about it is awesome, might wanna touch up the flares though!! LOL
would you consider making a stinger for me, but shipping it in raw steel?? this is a serious question. how much would you charge???
thanks,
John
__________________
needing a new rig....
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 06:58 PM
|
#209
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Cannon AFB, New Mexico
Posts: 273
|
Is all i can say.
Just  lol
|
|
|
09-19-2008, 10:06 PM
|
#210
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: pirate
Posts: 1,079
|
So just a recap.
From this...
To this...
In about a month... ARE YOU KIDDING ME!
|
|
|
|
|