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'05 LJ Currie Lift

4K views 44 replies 15 participants last post by  Accutron666 
#1 ·
My first post. Been lurking around since I got my Jeep a few months ago.

Not wanting to go too extreme on my lift. I've narrowed the lift down to a short-arm Currie with their HD steering setup.

So, a few questions.

First off, what I'm starting with: 2005 Rubicon LJ. Stock 4.0, Auto. Running 33 x 1050 x 15.

Do I have to change my rear drive shaft if I don't add a body lift?

I'm looking at doing these parts to achieve a 4" lift.

Currie 4" springs
Rear TracBar
Front TracBar
Front/Rear Bump Stops
Front/Rear upper/lower CA's
Brake Lines
Shocks (Fox or Bilstiens)

Other than what I listed, do I need anything else?

Thanks!

PS: Been also looking at the Savvy Offroad stuff. Kinda pricey. Is it worth the extra dough to go Aluminum CA's?
 
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#2 ·
At 4" of lift you will almost certainly need to switch to a double cardan rear driveshaft. And body lifts don't affect the driveshaft.

Aluminum CAs are nice and look good, but not much to be gained from them. Double adjustables though are very nice to have.

I don't see regear on the list. With the 42RLE and 33s even with the Rubicon 4.10s you are well under geared.
 
#5 ·
With an LJ you don't have to change the drive shaft for only 4" lift. You will need to drop the transfer case a little If you have the cash and time to do an SYE and shaft then it wouldn't hurt.
Isn't the purpose of doing a suspension lift to gain clearance for the vehicle chassis?
If so, why would you lift the chassis and then lower the lowest hanging part?
The SYE would require adjustable control arms.
FYI filling-in your profile helps others help you...
 
#6 ·
Im running 3.5" of spring lift, with the factory drive shaft, but i have a rubicon.
It has no slip yoke, and a longer rear drive shaft.
Assuming you dont have a rubicon, you will need an sye and cv drive shaft.
Or you will need to drop the transfer case a little.
Most of us prefer not to drop the t case, but it can b done.
The sye will strengthen the output shaft of the t case considerably!
Its a good upgrade, many consider it mandatory.

Good choice on the currie lift!
 
#7 ·
Accutron666 said:
My first post. Been lurking around since I got my Jeep a few months ago. Not wanting to go too extreme on my lift. I've narrowed the lift down to a short-arm Currie with their HD steering setup. So, a few questions. First off, what I'm starting with: 2005 Rubicon LJ. Stock 4.0, Auto. Running 33 x 1050 x 15. Do I have to change my rear drive shaft if I don't add a body lift? I'm looking at doing these parts to achieve a 4" lift. Currie 4" springs Rear TracBar Front TracBar Front/Rear Bump Stops Front/Rear upper/lower CA's Brake Lines Shocks (Fox or Bilstiens) Other than what I listed, do I need anything else? Thanks! PS: Been also looking at the Savvy Offroad stuff. Kinda pricey. Is it worth the extra dough to go Aluminum CA's?
I like the Currie springs.this is a picture of my LJ with 4 inch Currie springs in the rear and 35s. Fronts are pro comp. it's a little higher due to the bigger axle tubes and brackets. But you see the point.

I wouldn't spend the money on Currie steering Bc I'm sure it's pricey AF. I like the do it yourself kit with GM 1 ton TREs from ruffstuff.

Also, at 4 inches. (Which may actually net more) j would start looking away from Short arms. But that's just me.
 

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#17 ·
Also, at 4 inches. (Which may actually net more) j would start looking away from Short arms. But that's just me.
My current Currie 4" suspension with its Johnny-Joint short arms does nearly everything better than my previous 4.5" long-arm suspension did. It especially handles tougher trails better. The only thing my previous long-arm suspension did better was get hung up on the rocks far more easily and far more often.
 
#8 ·
I'm running 4.5 inches of suspension lift on my 05 LJR and I didn't have any vibration issues with the stock driveshaft. I did have some issues with the driveshaft being just a hair too long at full droop. When the suspension would reach full droop, the drive shaft would bottom out on its travel so I ended buying a long travel CV driveshaft from Tom Woods. I don't know if it would have actually ever been an issue in real world trail driving and the issue could have been eliminated if I had just slightly shorter shocks.
At 4 inches you probably won't need a new driveshaft.
 
#9 ·
Appreciate the info guys.

Just to clarify, I have a Rubicon, so I'm not going to need a SYE.

I'm still confused on the transfer case to rear pinion angle. I thought and I maybe wrong, that unlike an TJ the LJ had enough distance between the rear of transfer case and the axle to be able to maintain sufficient angle between the two.

Instead of dropping the transfer case I would install a motor mount lift to keep the relationship between those two components.
 
#15 ·
Mostly cause i was going to all poly mounts.
Motor mounts, trans mount, and body lift are all poly.
im building poly cage to frame ties also.
i wanted it all to have similar flex properties, or lack there of.
I got a good deal on the 1" lift currie motor mounts.
I like currie stuff, i use it all i can.
It also give a slightly better rear drive shaft angle.
doing the body lift and mml together makes sense, no rad shroud issues.
It gets the engine a little more out if harms way too.
 
#16 ·
First off, what I'm starting with: 2005 Rubicon LJ. Stock 4.0, Auto. Running 33 x 1050 x 15.
What lift do you have now? Or are you cramming those 33's with no lift?

I have an 05 LJR running 33x10.5x15 but with the 6 speed and have an old Rubicon Express 3.5" lift that includes springs, bump stops, fixed lower control arms, longer brake lines, rear track bar bracket, drilled stock front track bar mount, rear sway bar links, and quick disconnect front sway bar links. I am about to begin replacing the arms with Currie arms...

Your list looks like a complete lift.
 
#19 ·
What's the travel on the shocks you're running with the Currie lift. I'm torn between going short arms with the intention of 11" or 12" travel shocks on 3.5" or 4" of lift or purchasing the savvy midarm when it's released. I don't want the wheelbase to get too short when flexed due to the short arms, but it would be simpler, easier and less expensive.
 
#24 ·
Im running 3.5" re springs, and 11" shocks at all 4 corners.

Works well in front, in the stock mounts.
1.75 to 2" bump stops, and balanced travel.

In the rear, i used the same basic size shock.
I use a rear upper shock relocator, moves the upper shock mount up 1"
The lower mount is moved out and down about 1.5 inches.
it mounts to the back side of the lower control arm.
thats with balanced travel, and 2" bump stops.

Using 12" of travel on short arms is tough to do.
The arc of all the travel, on short arms is problematic.
11" is stretching it on short arms
 
#26 ·
Jerry Bransford said:
My current Currie 4" suspension with its Johnny-Joint short arms does nearly everything better than my previous 4.5" long-arm suspension did. It especially handles tougher trails better. The only thing my previous long-arm suspension did better was get hung up on the rocks far more easily and far more often.
Ok.

I love how someone such as yourself, would say something like my long arms got caught on rocks far more than short arms. Ok, that's valid.

Then you have someone else who is basically worshipped here, saying something along the lines of never sacrifice proper geometry for clearance.

I'm not arguing the performance of your lift. Just simply different strokes for different folks. And different vehicle goals.
 
#29 ·
Ok.

Then you have someone else who is basically worshipped here, saying something along the lines of never sacrifice proper geometry for clearance.

.
Not sure where you are going with that one? Are you using that quote to support long arms? If so, if it is the person I am thinking of that you are quoting, they don't believe long arms provide correct geometry and you are taking that statement out of context. But I guess they can answer for themselves if they read that...
 
#31 ·
I hope you guys are getting kick backs from Currie. Also, I never said anything poor about their products. I have the springs, I like them.

Two, unfair to compare RE LA ( one of the most hated LA lifts) to the Currie SA ( one of the more reputable SA options)

Everyone gets fired up when Joey jeep forum doesn't support the choices that they've made on their own rig.

So many ways to skin the cat. Some better than others. I'm not lifting a jeep and only going 2 inches. And I'm not lifting a TJ/LJ and not lengthening the arms. That's just me. But I enjoy running the numbers and making brackets and welding/creating links, so it's the right answer for me.
 
#34 ·
I hope you guys are getting kick backs from Currie. Also, I never said anything poor about their products. I have the springs, I like them.

Two, unfair to compare RE LA ( one of the most hated LA lifts) to the Currie SA ( one of the more reputable SA options)
Alright, what other long arm kits would you like to discuss? Teraflex LCG, Rock Crawler, which?

Doesn't matter much. For the most part, they sacrifice some aspect of performance for packaging so the average owner can do the install without giving it much thought. Sadly, I've even seen a few with weld on brackets that still failed at taking fairly important aspects into account.
 
#35 ·
mrblaine said:
Alright, what other long arm kits would you like to discuss? Teraflex LCG, Rock Crawler, which? Doesn't matter much. For the most part, they sacrifice some aspect of performance for packaging so the average owner can do the install without giving it much thought. Sadly, I've even seen a few with weld on brackets that still failed at taking fairly important aspects into account.
I clearly do no have the free time that you guys do. Not sure how this went combative. I'm trying not to be.

I like the idea of a mid arm. Please correct me though, you are still installing LONGER arms than stock, and you are, therefore, welding on new brackets?

Honest question, this savvy kit that's in the works...it will be a mid arm with new weld on brackets? I'm sure the answer is in the thread, please just tell me.

To the OP, and anyone else interested, I've used the the RK LA kit on a past TJ. I personally liked it and at my level back then i found no fault with it. So much that I purchased it a second time for my LJ. I purchased the kit for a good deal almost 3 years ago, and have just got around to installing it. Due to having a 60 up front, I made my own truss, and made my own upper link for the kit. Having a rewind button, I would buy a link and rod end set from somewhere like ruffstuff and do it all myself. Should I not be happy with the RK kit, or, Jerry, if my arms scrape too much, I will keep the skid and recreate the arms to my liking.

When we have these discussions, we really need to classify the lifts in to 2 parts...for 2 consumers...maybe even 3

Those that can weld

Those that want to DIY / fabricate

And those that just want to install a quick simple lift ( mechanically ). Or even those that just want to drop it off and have it done for them.

Like I said, different strokes for different folks.
 
#36 ·
Whether or not long arms scrape or get hung up depends on the trails that are done. The tougher and the rockier the trail is, the more likely it is they'll scrape or get hung up. There are plenty of popular 4x4 trails around where I'd be shocked if there was ever a single long arm hung up or scraped. And I see long-arm suspension equipped Jeeps leaving camp to do those types of trails, I doubt they'd have a bad thing to say about their long arms since it's doubtful their long arms even come close to a rock or obstacle. They most likely bought their long arm suspensions because they heard they ride nice.

Then there are other levels of trails where long arms developed their bad reputation among those who wheel on them. Rocky trails where a typical long-arm is going to get hung up regularly. I was on a trail called Sunbonnet years ago with mrblaine above where my TJ's long arms probably got hung up at least a dozen times.

I hesitate to post the below photos again because they're getting worn out from having been posted here so many times over the years but here goes... The first photo of my TJ with its front long-arm hung up on a rock was on a SOCAL trail called Pumpkin Eater, it made 4WD & Sport Utility magazine, the middle photo second to the last row of photos. The next photo is my TJ hung up on Sunbonnet. Blaine snapped the photo, another friend added the caption. The last photo is of another JF member's TJ with its long arm hung up on the rocks in Johnson Valley where Sunbonnet is located.

I dunno where you wheel or if your trails are full of rocks like the below, but those of us who learned on such trails that long-arms aren't all they're cracked up to be didn't form our opinions by reading the internetz.
 

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#37 ·
You need bigger tires my friend. Relax, I'm kidding

Like I said, the long arms will reduce your clearance. My next build or revision will have something more mid arm. Yet still longer than stock.

The OP,and those reading for advice, need to decide what works for them and what their goals are.

I appreciate you posting the photos.

Serious talk, I've never wheeled hard and repeatedly on the stock frame CA mounts. I did rip an upper off the frame sliding around in the snow back in the day. Do you have issues with the strength of the factory frame brackets ?
 
#38 ·
Do you have issues with the strength of the factory frame brackets ?
Not since installing arms with good flex joints like the Johnny Joints on my Currie arms. The previous poorly designed Teraflex arms I ran like 15-16 years ago that only had simple bushings at the ends didn't flex well enough to prevent tearing the control arm mounting brackets off where they were welded to the axles. That happened when the Jeep was really twisted up on an uneven trail. That hasn't happened since I got rid of those crappy first-generation Teraflex arms.
 
#40 ·
Make sure you get the washers from Currie that go in the slot for the front lower control arm at the axle side. My Savvy 4" kit didn't come with them and my arms moved back and forth while driving. Mr Blaine set me straight and had me put them in. No more movement with the arms. http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x313/Jerry_Bransford/JJ-Washer-3_zps4efea64c.jpg

Also, don't buy the rear shock relocation extension brackets. They lift the shock up too high and the shock will bottom out before the bump stops hit. You will have to grind out the rear spring bucket so the shocks won't hit at full extension but at least you wont blow the shock out with those stupid brackets.
 
#41 ·
Make sure you get the washers from Currie that go in the slot for the front lower control arm at the axle side. My Savvy 4" kit didn't come with them and my arms moved back and forth while driving. Mr Blaine set me straight and had me put them in. No more movement with the arms. http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x313/Jerry_Bransford/JJ-Washer-3_zps4efea64c.jpg
NO, the arms don't move because the washers are missing, they moved because they weren't tight. The fender washers are only there to help you locate the bolt on center in the slot until you tighten them.

If you could have found an easy way to tighten the bolts on center in the slot, they would work exactly the same as the JJ washers do. And, if you let the bolts work loose, you will still ruin the mounts with the JJ washers.
 
#45 ·
Wow, I didn't think a simple lift question would stir this level of passion.

Thanks for the advise. I'm more than likely going to go with the Savvy arms, just for the simple adjustibility and the rest of the components Currie.

To me, long arm/short arm, pick one that you're happy with and just go wheeling. I see a lot of Jeeps with either setups and quite frankly, if the owner likes it, so be it.

That's why there are both to choose from.
 
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