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Old 11-10-2009, 02:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
Better to cut the red/orange wire which is the one that feeds the relay coil. If you use the white/orange you need to make sure you use a switch that is rated for the current the fog lamps will draw.
Not correct - The red wire with orange tracer is for High beams sensed. When you have your high beams on that wire energizes the relay breaking the fog light circuit turning your fog lights off.

Yes you must make sure your switch is rated to handle the 110 watts (that's 9.1666 amps at 12 vdc) the fog lights draw - this is the reason why the directional switch fog light control fails.

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Old 11-10-2009, 02:58 PM   #17
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I thought you were talking about installing a factory fog light togle switch from a earlier model.
78 bucks, not bad, the togle switch is 40 bucks from them.

jknutter. That makes sence. The relay is to kill the lights, not turn them on. The lights are on normally closed contacts.
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:59 PM   #18
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Not correct - The red wire with orange tracer is for High beams sensed. When you have your high beams on that wire energizes the relay breaking the fog light circuit turning your fog lights off.

Yes you must make sure your switch is rated to handle the 110 watts (that's 9.1666 amps at 12 vdc) the fog lights draw - this is the reason why the directional switch fog light control fails.
I stand corrected. Wasn't looking at the relay diagram too closely. Glad I have a 97 with the lighting on separate switches, they don't seem to have as many problems.
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:03 PM   #19
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I stand corrected. Wasn't looking at the relay diagram too closely. Glad I have a 97 with the lighting on separate switches, they don't seem to have as many problems.
No kidding I'd rather work on the 69 AMX anyday!!! There are like only 3 wires running to the motor and one of those is a ground cable....
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:24 PM   #20
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Yes you must make sure your switch is rated to handle the 110 watts (that's 9.1666 amps at 12 vdc) the fog lights draw - this is the reason why the directional switch fog light control fails.
Are you speaking of the multiswitch or the one on the dash by the ashtray?

Should I just do away with using the switch on the end of the multipurpose switch and go with a dash switch?
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:48 AM   #21
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Are you speaking of the multiswitch or the one on the dash by the ashtray?

Should I just do away with using the switch on the end of the multipurpose switch and go with a dash switch?
The multi - headlight, directional, highbeam one.

That is your choice - but there are a ton of threads on JF about that switch failing. I opted for adding a switch in the dash and deep 6ing the multi for fog light control. You can search around and find replacement multi's pretty cheap but not as cheap as $3.99 from radio shack for a toggle switch. Don't forget as mentioned before these lights pull about 10 amps, unless you are using a relay make sure the switch and power supply can handle the load and use at least 14 gauge wire (good for up to 15 amps).

I sent you a PM instructions on getting a very helpful item...
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:56 AM   #22
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The multi - headlight, directional, highbeam one.

That is your choice - but there are a ton of threads on JF about that switch failing. I opted for adding a switch in the dash and deep 6ing the multi for fog light control. You can search around and find replacement multi's pretty cheap but not as cheap as $3.99 from radio shack for a toggle switch. Don't forget as mentioned before these lights pull about 10 amps, unless you are using a relay make sure the switch and power supply can handle the load and use at least 14 gauge wire (good for up to 15 amps).

I sent you a PM instructions on getting a very helpful item...
If I just cut the wires from the multi switch and tap the new switch into the cut wires I can still use the factory relay correct?
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Old 11-12-2009, 12:20 PM   #23
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If I just cut the wires from the multi switch and tap the new switch into the cut wires I can still use the factory relay correct?
make sure you cut the right wire you dont want to go cuttin the head light or anything else, and also there is no factory relay all that power goes to the multi function switch. Which is probably a contributing factor to their failures.
I hooked a switch right up to the wires basically, but found that they got pretty warm while testing them out. So with my dad's help we found the easiest thing was hook just one foglight up to a relay, and the other one is still straight to the switch. This was only because the wire for that (pass side) foglight was easiest to get to under the hood. So the switch is going to the relay and 1 foglight and handles that power fine, and my relay is hooked to the other foglight.
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Old 11-12-2009, 12:41 PM   #24
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, and also there is no factory relay all that power goes to the multi function switch. Which is probably a contributing factor to their failures.
.
So then what is the factory relay under the hood marked foglights for?
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:12 PM   #25
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That relay is to turn the lights off when you turn on the hi beams.
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:46 PM   #26
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So would it be better to just run fresh wire from the lights, install a relay between the switch and lights and leave the factory wire in place for future owners.
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:17 PM   #27
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If I just cut the wires from the multi switch and tap the new switch into the cut wires I can still use the factory relay correct?
As mentioned there is no relay for the fogs. When mine failed I ran a wire from the dash lights to fire a relay. Through the contacts of that relay and my added switch I powered the fog lights. That way they worked as they always did with running lights or low beams. I've sent you a PM on how to get a copy of the FSM for your jeep. It may help you in the long run.

Jeff
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:40 PM   #28
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thanks for the info
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