[cmoore]

Starting work on the rear HP60 and Clayton Double Triangulated Long arms.




The Clayton crossmember will tie into the frame rails and the t-case skid.


The crossmember is fun to weld in. Especially getting the topside. My vertical upside down welding isnt as pretty as I'd like.

[cmoore]

Genright says you can get 6" rear stretch with a D60. Using the Solid cover that came with my axle I found that the diff cover shape would not let me squeeze out as much stretch as I'd like.




Called up David at Northridge4x4.com and he recommended the new ARB cover. It's shape keys into the genright tank much nicer and I got almost another inch of room to move the axle back.




since these pics were taken I've actually managed to move the axle back to clear the notch by just about 1/8". With the new arb cover my rear stratch worked out to almost 7 inches. woot!

[cmoore]

[cmoore]

The clayton stuff is monstrous.



I just like this picture.

[cmoore]

Rear 14" Fox coils. Since this is my fisrt time doing CO's PolyPerformance and Northridge4x4 put their heads together and helped me come up with the spring rates to start with. Ultimately I may need to change springs but things seem to be ok so far.



something like this:




no going back now:




The goal is 5" uptravel from ride height. Beginners luck or whatever, I'm pretty happy with the placement.


Everything clears from full up to full droop.

[cmoore]

Sitting on her rear.

[cmoore]

The fuel filler was a bit of a conundrum.



Lots of ideas got tossed around but again I wasnt excited about cutting any more metal out of the rig than I had to so ultimately I kept it simple. To make the hoses fit around the shock tower I only needed to be slightly creative. There's two tubes from the tank. The little one I flipped and trimmed one inch off at the tank side to get the bend closer to the tank and clear the tower then I trimmed the (new) top end to the length I needed. The larger tube I swapped out for a straight fuel fill tube from Napa (getting someone to sell me the tube was the hardest part). Plugged it in and just cut the straight tube to length.

[cmoore]

Originally Posted by JIA

What's the new wheelbase going to be with those 39s?

still in pencil but something close to 104 (depending on how the front axle fits up).

[john NC]

looks awesome so far, i'm jealous

subscribed

[cmoore]

the factory muffler is just too big so I went with a Hushpower2 shorty. Should give me a tad more room.

[cmoore]

Front Solid HP60 shows up. 65" wms, 5.38s, arb, 35 spline alloy custom inners, 35 outers,full float with drive flanges. high steer arms,



Solid's new kingpin knuckles are monstrous. I think they should be called BLINGpins.


CTMs for 60s are big.




Just had to tuck it under that to see how it'd look.

[cmoore]

Factory spec for Kingpins are "500-600 ft/lbs" I dont have a torque wrench for that. To top it off the kingpin uses a 7/8" allen head which I also didnt have. So I went to the neighborhood steel vendor and picked up 6' of 7/8 hex and made my own giganto allen key (thanks Billavista for the idea).



Then it's just simple math to use my body weigh to get the proper torque applied. It took two people to secure the axle while I torqued it.







The high steer arms are pimp but somehow I got the wrong bevels from Solid. Fortunately for me, David at Northridge checked in on me and noticed the problem, called Solid and they swapped me out almost overnight.

[cmoore]

Setting up the spindles. The first pic is how the bearings sit inside the hub. You wouldnt put them on in this order but I thought some folks might like to see how the bearings are oriented.

Together at last:


Almost looks like something now.

[UTWeezul]

Looks like a nice build. Crawling this one

[cmoore]

At this point the UPS guy is starting to hate me. Who knew that Northridge and PolyPerformance caused low back pain.