[Matt in TN]

I've followed the instructions provided, and have a call into Randy's Ring & Pinion "tech support" (where I bought them) to help clarify, but haven't heard back yet and thought I'd ask here in case anyone else has gone through this. It's a '79 CJ-7 for the record.

I got my axles installed, measuring the protrusion of the bearings from the axle tubes before pressing them onto the shafts. The instructions specified 0.030" to 0.080" protrusion, and mine was right at 0.080". I was wondering if being at the edge of the tolerance would mess me up at all, and if so, in what way? For example - too tight, too loose, etc?

Also - I've read on some 1-piece axle installations that you have to remove the spacer block from inside the spider gears, but the Yukon instructions said nothing about it, so I left it alone. I wanted to verify that this was correct.

When I got them installed they felt a little "tight" spinning them by hand, but i'm not sure if that's normal or if that's just me being paranoid and having nothing to compare them to. Once I got the brakes and wheels back on they feel a little better, so maybe it's just me. Can anyone offer some help here?

[gosupes]

Running the axles right at the limits should be fine, just a little more preload on the bearing. They might even settle in a little more once you put some miles on them. As for the spacer block, I have always heard you have to remove them. Ask the tech's at Randys.

[Matt in TN]

Well - I took it for a test drive today and it seemed fine. I still haven't heard back from the techs yet - I tried again this afternoon and just got a voice mail again. Maybe today was a Randy's holiday.........

[80cj]

If the bearings feel tight, it very well could be that the differential thrust block needs to be removed. Installing the bearings with .080 " protrusion does not preload the bearing per se as all the clamping force is being directed to the outer race of the bearing and should not cause the bearing to be preloaded. I installed a Genine Gear axle kit in my CJ-5 and one side was at .080" protrusion also but after everything was tightened down, the axle turned smoothly without any resistence or drag. I had installed an Auburn limited slip at the same time and had left the thrust block out. If you have any doubts whether you are having interfernce with the thrust block, I would remove the diff cover and check to see if there is any play between the thrust block and axles. If there is, then the thrust block is not causing interference. If there is no play or looseness, then I would say the thrust block should be removed as that would be a sign that both axles are bottomed aganst the thrust block and the bearings are probably loaded.

[Matt in TN]

Follow up - I talked to a tech at Randy's today and he said he actually prefers 0.060" for max protrusion of hte bearing from the tube. He said 0.080" or more will just add a little more pre-load to the bearing and could bend the backing plate a little when you torque it down all the way. Mine's already in, so if it was going to bend it's already done - I'll leave it for now. If I burn up bearings really quick I'll know the cause though!

Also - he said Yukon's are made just short enough that you don't have to remove the spacer/thrust block in the spider gears - so I guess I'm good to go!