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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:23 AM   #46
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Wix was the OEM oil-filter for the 4's and 6's.
For our Jeeps, NAPA Gold oil-filter is a Wix.
I have only used Wix from day 1. I buy them buy the case from NAPA.
The reason for your "botton-end noise" was the 'lite' oil you used. NOT the Fram filter.
LG
I like NAPA Gold as well. It was definitely the filter in this case, assuming you were referring to me.


Shawn

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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:32 AM   #47
LumpyGrits
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Shaun-Didn't you change to a thicker weight oil also?
LG
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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #48
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Shaun-Didn't you change to a thicker weight oil also?
LG
I suppose I didn't give you the whole story.

Changed oil with 15W-40, as usual, only that time I was feeling really broke and used a Fram instead of the NAPA Gold I had on there. I ditched the Fram a week later for a K&N because NAPA was half way across town.

Oil change with Gold filter= all good.
Oil change with Fram filter= no good.
Filter change to K&N a week later (week old oil)= back to good.

Same 15W-40 used each time.

Did I make that clear as mud?


Shawn
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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:50 AM   #49
LumpyGrits
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Give 20W-50 oil a try with next change.
LG
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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:02 AM   #50
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post

Give 20W-50 oil a try with next change.
LG
That was a couple of years ago so hopefully that's a fairly-accurate story. My memory is the second shortest thing on my body lately
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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:47 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I don't even remember seeing a 5w-20 in '73, and I was driving and working on cars then. It was a long time ago though. This was also before the big box chain auto parts stores, with the exception of Western Auto. All my filters and oil came from a locally owned parts store.

I agree Shawn, not a fan.
Also in that 73 owners manual it states to change the oil levery 5,000 miles or 5 months. I run 5W-20 Conventional in mine. No leaks, doesnt burn any and it starts easily in any temperature. Keep in mind the oil of today is much more refined than 40 years ago and a brand new quart of yesteryears oil would fail an API test miserably. I run a conventional because i dont want the deposit drop off that a high mileage or added ad pac produce. As a side note I do have a place for full synthetic. All my outdoor lawn equipment with air cooled engines do run full synthetic because of the superior heat dissapation provided and the sporadic oil changes that equipment receives.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 07:20 PM   #52
S76
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I know opinions on oil are as numerous as there are Jeep owners. But I am convinced of this.

No decent oil does any engine harm. (Except maybe Kendal)

Additives are band aids. You don't need them unless something is worn. Fix the problem.

I run Rotella Synthetic 5W40 in my diesel truck with 150K on it. The Maxima with 206k on it. The new Maxima with 10K on it. The Yamaha FJR with 80K on it. And all the lawnmowers. Never had a problem with any of them and the engine internals are spotless.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 07:30 PM   #53
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S76-NONE of your engines were built a 'loose' as the AMC's were.
FWIW: I run syn 5W-30 Castrol in my 2 Suby's and Chev big block 1T dually.
One of the reasons I run the 5W is those 3 engines, they have roller rockers and need the oil to get to'em PDQ on start-up.
I will keep on using Castrol 20W-50 in my Jeep 258, that's going on 28+ yrs and never been inside the engine yet.
Respectfully,
LG
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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:23 AM   #54
swatson454
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Here's a long but good thread on oil. I'd completely ignore Rat and pay a lot of attention to Lorax.

http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=1&t=36082

Edit: Ah, that's not it and I'm too tired to look for the right one. I'll find it later and post it up.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 08:57 AM   #55
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So my question is, before I had the engine rebuilt i used the Lucas and really felt the difference. This is a testament to what many of you guys are saying judging by what was found when I opened it up for rebuild! Now that it is rebuilt nice and tight, I haven't used it in the break in or first regular oil change. I use 10w30 castrol conventional and Lucas zinc additive. This was directed by the speed shop that did the rebuild and warranty. So how come 4 pages of this thread and no one has mentioned the zinc necessity? The shop acted like this was common knowledge for these engines and I had never come across it. Was this just something I should have known? All the kids are doing it except me?
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Unread 06-28-2013, 09:07 AM   #56
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What do you think was used in STP Oil Treatment
Same goes for Restore.......
LG
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Unread 06-28-2013, 09:46 AM   #57
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Basically they decreased the zinc levels in regular oil a few years back to meet new standards and to decrease the wear on the catalytic converters. Zddp additive will increase the levels, diesel oil has increased levels, and semi recently quaker state came out with a new oil defy that has higher zinc levels. I have been using quaker state defy 10w30 since my rebuild and so far so good. And I believe both lumpy grits and I mention it in earlier posts.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 11:36 AM   #58
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a friend of mine had a Chevy pick up truck around a 1994 or 1995 model. He used the Lucas oil treatment because every time he came to a stop sign at idle his idiot light would come on for low oil pressure. He said if he didn't do it, by the 1500 mile mark on the oil change it would start doing this. I told him to replace his oxygen sensor and stop using the Lucas and he had no more problems. all that's doing is hiding the fact that he's gassing his oil from a bad oxygen sensor and sometimes they don't code.

Use a good quality diesel oil and you can stop worrying about your engine blowing up because the oil now has 400 to 600ppm zinc and phosphorous instead of the 800 to 1200ppm that car oils (S rated oils) use to have.

If you can't sleep at night go buy some brad penn oil.

Do some oil analysis and watch the iron levels. That will be cam ware.then you will have no doubt.

The Rotella T6 5w40 is one of the darlings of the big all about oil Fourm. Its all but prefect for the 258. I run it in:

1994 Dodge Ram with the Cummins
1998 Kawasaki ZX9r
1970 Chevelle 396ss
1996 Saturn SL1
1986 CJ7 258
1987 Honda XR600

The cam and valve train is the last place to get oil pressure. You need to watch how much viscosity improvers you add to the oil. It can take 15 seconds for oil to reach the cam after startup. That oil pressure gauge is in the main oil galley. That's one of the first places oil pressure builds. The cam gets its oil from the main bearings of the crank.

The Lucas and STP will make a noisy engine quiet. But you know why its noisy to begin with. Grammys engine lasted 130,000 miles with minimal care and a big rust hole in the center of the aircleaner. It lasted until the piston cocked sideways in cylinder 5.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 12:42 PM   #59
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Keep an eye on your "cats" with some of those oils
LG
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Unread 06-28-2013, 04:11 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post

1970 Chevelle 396ss
You can post a pic or PM me one if you like. That sounds sweet! lol
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