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Unread 09-12-2013, 01:51 PM   #31
supersport126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
Spieg8 - What spring are those, CS036R's? If so they must be a new lot. Mine have no arrow and the plus is at the bigger fixed end.

Another reason that illustrates why those are backwards is that when you use OME's bushings they give you one sleeve for the larger shouldered bushing that fits the large eye, which allows for the larger bolt used at the stationary mount.
The problem was, the sleeve I had for the R.E. greesable shackles would not fit OME's 1.25" bushings. I had springs mounted correctly to fixed end but could not get shackle end correct without a different sleeve. Does anyone think this will be a problem?

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Unread 09-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #32
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
The problem was, the sleeve I had for the R.E. greesable shackles would not fit OME's 1.25" bushings. I had springs mounted correctly to fixed end but could not get shackle end correct without a different sleeve. Does anyone think this will be a problem?
I would get the correct bushings and sleeves, and install the springs as they are designed to be installed.

Good luck,

Matt
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Unread 09-12-2013, 02:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
The problem was, the sleeve I had for the R.E. greesable shackles would not fit OME's 1.25" bushings. I had springs mounted correctly to fixed end but could not get shackle end correct without a different sleeve. Does anyone think this will be a problem?
My guess is (and I don't know for sure) your RE shackles are made for RE springs. If RE springs are like my BDS springs (and I seem to remember reading that they are), they have 1.5" eyes at both ends of the springs, and so the bushings/sleeves are larger than what you get for an OME shackle end bushing. I'm pretty sure that the springs will flex the same either way, so it probably wont make much difference if you have them backward. Having the thinner bushing wall at the fixed mount may make the ride a little rougher, but that's all I can think of. It seems like you could find the correct sleeves to resolve this problem... I know they're commonly available.
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Unread 09-12-2013, 02:59 PM   #34
Matt1981CJ7
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Sport,

Did your OME springs come with a shim already installed? Mine did. If so, then I suspect the shim is backwards as you currently have them installed, which will throw your caster off.

Edit: Never mind. I see you checked caster....

Matt
shimreversal.jpg  
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Unread 09-13-2013, 11:25 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
The problem was, the sleeve I had for the R.E. greesable shackles would not fit OME's 1.25" bushings. I had springs mounted correctly to fixed end but could not get shackle end correct without a different sleeve. Does anyone think this will be a problem?
You could check with TR Burris at ARB in Wash. to be sure. Personally I'd get the OME bushings also.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 01:42 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82

You could check with TR Burris at ARB in Wash. to be sure. Personally I'd get the OME bushings also.
I have the correct bushings and if I ever get ahold of some Crabtree hangers I will use them for sure. Didn't drive it yet but she's sitting perfect as far as I'm concerned. Caster looks good with no shims and that could possibly change if I flipped the springs around. I'll know what's up Saturday. I got nothing going on so it's gonna be a jeep day getting carb re jetted and test out these springs

Edit: Just got off the phone with ARB and they agree the springs should be flipped around. I love doing things twice I guess. Still gonna run them backwards unless I see a need not to.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:29 PM   #37
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Edit: Just got off the phone with ARB and they agree the springs should be flipped around. I love doing things twice I guess. Still gonna run them backwards unless I see a need not to.
Just an observation - When you ask for advice from people with more experience, and then ignore the advice given... you will often find yourself doing things twice.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 05:39 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8

Just an observation - When you ask for advice from people with more experience, and then ignore the advice given... you will often find yourself doing things twice.
I'm not ignoring you guys trust me. I appreciate all the input I get from you guys. The R.E. shackles and OME springs are NOT a good match clearly. Hopefully Crabtree will come thru sooner then later.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 12:57 PM   #39
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Got shackles all greased up and been driving around all morning. I think I lost some castor, hard to read using the top ball joint nut..cant get my fat head in there. Any other place to check from? from what I could see it dropped to around 3 degree's. Front is now sitting slightly higher then rear but I still haven't mounted my front bumper and winch yet.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:31 PM   #40
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Don't know of a better place to check castor but what I found to provide a better surface for the gauge to set on is to remove the cotter pin and slip a large socket over the nut so it rests on the steering knuckle itself. A deep wall socket will raise it a bit for better viewing.
Are the shackle length, bolt hole to bolt hole, the same for the front and rear? The front looks good but the back looks low. I don't think another 100-120# of winch and bumper is enough to even it out.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:52 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
Don't know of a better place to check castor but what I found to provide a better surface for the gauge to set on is to remove the cotter pin and slip a large socket over the nut so it rests on the steering knuckle itself. A deep wall socket will raise it a bit for better viewing.
Are the shackle length, bolt hole to bolt hole, the same for the front and rear? The front looks good but the back looks low. I don't think another 100-120# of winch and bumper is enough to even it out.
Great idea for checking castor I'll do that for sure thanks! I only replaced fronts and yes, it's about a 1" higher then rear. Next year I'll do the rear and level it out. Rear is still stock springs with lift shackles . I'm very pleased with fronts but I will need shims for sure now that they've settled a bit. I also need to flop drag link to flatten that out too.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:59 PM   #42
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My experience was measuring off the ball joint was only accurate to about +/- 3 degrees.

You really need to have an alignment shop check it. My shop will give me a print out for free, and let me do the adjustments.

Matt
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Unread 09-16-2013, 01:16 PM   #43
supersport126
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
My experience was measuring off the ball joint was only accurate to about +/- 3 degrees.

You really need to have an alignment shop check it. My shop will give me a print out for free, and let me do the adjustments.

Matt
Oh, I was gonna get it to around 6+ and then get a full alignment. Makes sense to get a print out first. I do wanna get the front bumper and winch on first thou. Guess ill do that today
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Unread 09-28-2013, 10:35 AM   #44
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Alright, got my front bumper and winch mounted up and a good week of driving around to let it settle in so today I went up to belle tire for an alignment check. From what it looks like do you recommend 4 or 6 degree shims? I plan on installing shims and all tie rod end and then get it actually aligned hopefully this month.

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Unread 09-28-2013, 10:58 AM   #45
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I would go with the 6 degree as the springs settle in it could remove a degree or two.
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