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Unread 03-21-2013, 11:06 PM   #31
Cj5Betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj


The front and rear spring hangers come 2.5" wide from the factory.

Rich
I stand corrected, and looking stupid. Guess I should have gone outside and measured first....

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Unread 03-22-2013, 08:00 AM   #32
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Join the club.....

Rich
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Unread 03-22-2013, 12:22 PM   #33
Renegade82
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Nice job rixcj. I was just telling a guy the other day about how to get rid of the rust in his springs and ended up saying it will eventually come back no matter what you do, due to the grit getting between the leafs and eventually rubbing down to bare metal again. But the teflon liners would be a great way to go to postpone even that happening.

I was going to suggest to you new hangers with the 1/2" shift forward already built in, from MORE. You don't need to remove any rivet or drill a new hole. But then remembered they are for the conversion to the wider spring and use the full width shackles which would negate your offsets that you already bought. I got these for my OME conversion that I pieced together.

As for the need to even move them forward, I don't think you need to when using a longer shackle. Since the added length would allow the extra reach to get to the spring eye. The trade off is you may loose a slight bit of lift but getting the next size longer shackle would overcome that, if it were even an issue. As for changing spring rates I'm not sure. The link given to ih8mud site didn't really explain his math too well. He left a step out or made an assumption.
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Unread 03-22-2013, 05:01 PM   #34
S76
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Great thread rixcj. Springs are next on my list and the teflon is an awesome idea. I've never seen that before. Can't wait to see what happens. Thanks for sharing.
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Unread 03-22-2013, 07:02 PM   #35
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Nice work.
I think I would be concerned running the Teflon the full length though. If any of them break and fall out, that would cause the u-bolts to loosen.
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Unread 03-22-2013, 11:16 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Nice job rixcj. I was just telling a guy the other day about how to get rid of the rust in his springs and ended up saying it will eventually come back no matter what you do, due to the grit getting between the leafs and eventually rubbing down to bare metal again. But the teflon liners would be a great way to go to postpone even that happening.

I was going to suggest to you new hangers with the 1/2" shift forward already built in, from MORE. You don't need to remove any rivet or drill a new hole. But then remembered they are for the conversion to the wider spring and use the full width shackles which would negate your offsets that you already bought. I got these for my OME conversion that I pieced together.

As for the need to even move them forward, I don't think you need to when using a longer shackle. Since the added length would allow the extra reach to get to the spring eye. The trade off is you may loose a slight bit of lift but getting the next size longer shackle would overcome that, if it were even an issue. As for changing spring rates I'm not sure. The link given to ih8mud site didn't really explain his math too well. He left a step out or made an assumption.
I'm actually fabricating new front shackle hangers that will move the front mounting point 1.125" forward, as Jim suggested. I don't think that I can go wrong doing this. At least I hope not!

Quote:
Originally Posted by S76 View Post
Great thread rixcj. Springs are next on my list and the teflon is an awesome idea. I've never seen that before. Can't wait to see what happens. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kudos!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
Nice work.
I think I would be concerned running the Teflon the full length though. If any of them break and fall out, that would cause the u-bolts to loosen.
Thanks for the kind words! I'm not concerned with those problems happening. The teflon is shaped like a channel. It locks in between the leafs real well. I would say that it's almost impossible for it to ever fall out. People have been using these liners for years.

Rich
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Unread 03-24-2013, 07:48 AM   #37
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I fabbed up some front shackle mounting brackets. They are designed to allow the mounting point to be 1.125" forward of stock shackles, without having to remove the frame rivet.

They have an offset, to clear my front bumper. The front tube sections are DOM tube, that had a .9375" ID. It has been bored out to 1" to make a nice tight fit for the bushings.

Here are some pics.

Tacked up...







Welded up...







Cleaned, primed, and painted...





Rich
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Unread 03-24-2013, 08:39 AM   #38
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Wow, that is fantastic work. When I first started reading, I was concerned the eyelets wouldn't be strong enough, but after looking at the way you gusseted them, that won't be an issue at all. Wow! I wish I had fab skills like that. Excellent work! How much do you think you would charge for a set of those....?
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Unread 03-24-2013, 08:51 AM   #39
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I did YJ springs a while ago. I used to MORE offset hangers in the front. Someone gave me MORE boomerang YJ shackles previously, so I had what I needed. For the u-bolt plates, I used 1 rear YJ and 1 front YJ. The YJ has the axle disconnect on the passenger side and the pumpkin of the driver side, so YJ front plates have holes set up for 2 different size bolts, just like the CJ front passenger plate.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 09:02 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cj5Betty View Post
Wow, that is fantastic work. When I first started reading, I was concerned the eyelets wouldn't be strong enough, but after looking at the way you gusseted them, that won't be an issue at all. Wow! I wish I had fab skills like that. Excellent work! How much do you think you would charge for a set of those....?
Thanks for the kind words. I make a lot of jeep stuff for myself, because I can. In reality, sometimes it would be more practical to just buy something.

It took me about 6 hrs. to fab them. Of course, much of that time was just figuring out dimensions, etc.

And, when it actually comes time to install them, I hope everything works out. I won't know until then. There may have to be some modifications done to them.

The bottom line is, I've gotten asked from time to time if I would make some of what I make for myself, for others. So far, I have not done that, for many reasons.

In this case, I know that my jeep will be 98% street driven, so, most my parts don't have to be Heavy Duty. What the next guy's gonna do, I don't know, and my parts may not be strong enough for him/her.

If you seriously want to buy some top shelf shackle hanger brackets for a YJ leaf spring conversion, get a set of Jim Crabtree's (Jim1611 on this forum). They don't make them any better!

But, thanks for asking!

Rich
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Unread 03-25-2013, 08:08 AM   #41
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Nice work. Love the welds. Curious as to why you went 1 1/4" longer instead of just the typical 1" that most do when they use the rivet hole?
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Unread 03-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #42
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Absolutely beautiful work Rich.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 08:49 AM   #43
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Nice work Rich, just as I suspected it would be.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 09:14 AM   #44
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Nice work. Love the welds. Curious as to why you went 1 1/4" longer instead of just the typical 1" that most do when they use the rivet hole?
Thank you. TIG welding is a wonderful thing! I went 1 1/8" longer. Jim1611 has worked all these numbers out, so I went with it. I am not using the rivet hole. The large holes in the hangers are to clear the rivet heads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acgcoug View Post
Absolutely beautiful work Rich.
Thank you, kind sir...!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Nice work Rich, just as I suspected it would be.
Coming from you, that's quite a compliment, Jim...thanks!

Rich
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Unread 04-24-2013, 09:41 PM   #45
jeep_boy02
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I am doing the same swap to my 80 CJ 7... My springs are supposedly stock ones and seems to be two packs of 4 leaves and two pack of 5 leaves... they were already disassembled so Im kinda at a loss as to which leaves go to which pack... I can tell by eye that there are two main leaves that have more arch to them and are about an inch shorter eye to eye. the second leaves are the same too so I have them matched up but the rest of the packs im not sure on... Any info on pack reassembly would help.

Also since I have a heavy pig of an AMC V8 and a winch up front I was planning to assemble the packs in this such a way; the more arched 4 leaf packs up front and less arched but 5 leaf pack in rear to combat axle wrap since I'm also SOA. Does that sound doable or like a plan to try?

I do like the Teflon strips idea and may do that as well but I am using Slip Plate to coat the leaves. It is a graphite anti friction "paint" that does not attract dust, dirt, mud, sand, etc... I have very high hopes for this and hope it will live and last up to what I've heard about it.
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