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Unread 04-26-2011, 08:28 PM   #1
ilikethemalot
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Wrecked CJ5 - Purchasing Help

Hi,
For all intents and purposes, I'm fairly new to the Jeep world. I've done a fair amount of research (and stayed in the background on this forum) but I've actually come to an actual possibility of buying. One thing to mention is that I'd much rather spend under $1000 or so and then be able to spend two or three times that into fixing it up. And as a side note, I'm gone through a fair amount of engine and body work on various cars.

So to cut to the chase, I found a wreck 1978 CJ-5 with a 232 I6 (or at least the VIN says so...) It has significant damage on the hood, drivers fender, and a large dent in the drivers side tub. The windshield is busted (not sure of the windshield frame condition) and the radiator is pushed slightly into the radiator fan. There is no frame rust from what I have checked and the only tub rust is where it mounts to the frame. The odometer reads 58K and the seats are red material with 2X4's under their front mounts so they fit right. Also, the steering wheel is bent up . The rear driveshaft is also separated at the spline, not broken but pulled apart even though everything is still connected(?). For a positive, the owner claims it runs good although I am not sure as to how since the radiator fan cannot spin. Now, what I am asking is if it is too far gone or worth the price. He wants $800 but I am planning on offering $400 and I can't see anything over $550 being worth it.

Pictures will be uploaded shortly! *link* http://www.flickr.com/photos/62226839@N06/?saved=1

Thanks,
ilikethemalot


Last edited by ilikethemalot; 04-26-2011 at 09:20 PM.. Reason: Photo Link
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:11 PM   #2
lucdog
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Sounds like a $200 Jeep to me, no more and start at $150. That's with a clear title.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:14 PM   #3
aallison28
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Under 5-400. Maybe even less, without seeing picts. With a clear title.......
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:24 PM   #4
ilikethemalot
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I've edited the post to include a link for the pictures. I haven't asked him yet about the title, but I'm definitely not interested if he can't verify the engine running and if the title isn't clear.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:34 PM   #5
jeepdaddy2000
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For me the crux would be if the frame is straight. If so, the rest is sheet metal and bolt on replacement parts. If your looking at a bush beater, 400 to 600 would be in the hunt. If your looking at a full on eye candy resto, your going to spend a bit of coin to get it looking purdy......
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:39 PM   #6
Shiftace
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Looks like a pretty serious ditch attack. I think maybe 400 tops as a parts Jeep.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:41 PM   #7
ilikethemalot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
For me the crux would be if the frame is straight. If so, the rest is sheet metal and bolt on replacement parts. If your looking at a bush beater, 400 to 600 would be in the hunt. If your looking at a full on eye candy resto, your going to spend a bit of coin to get it looking purdy......
Is there any sure way to tell if the frame is straight? From what I can tell, it looks fine but all I've thought to do is get under it and eyeball the frame.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:43 PM   #8
brownbagg
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the problem is, its a 400 dollar jeep but its a 1000 dollar jeep too. with the damage 400 be a good deal but then somebody will pay a 1000 because it is a jeep and the food fenders windshield can be found less than 200 and then it would be a 2000 jeep. you got look at how bad you want it. running jeeps under 1500 are rare, but some are out here
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:58 PM   #9
Ken4444
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I think the 2x4 seat risers add a lot to the whole package. That's a custom mod that you won't see on every CJ. I would offer $200.99. If, for some reason, the seller won't throw in the 2x4 blocks, then just go with $200.

In all seriousness, it's been wrecked so there's no way to drive it. That is a huge problem. Offer $200 and take it for $400, assuming the title is clear like a previous poster said.

Here's another way to think about it: A Jeep is just a collection of parts. Each part will cost you something to replace. So what in this Jeep is salvageable, and at what cost? After a wreck, don't trust the frame or the suspension. The drivelines could be fouled up. The engine might be OK, but can you even start it? The body is toast. Maybe the trans is OK but how would you even know if you can't drive it? What does that leave you with?

FWIW, it looks like it has SOA suspension and monster shackles. Poor man's lift?

I scraped some of the photos off Flickr:
wrecked-jeep1.jpg   wrecked-jeep2.jpg   wrecked-jeep3.jpg   wrecked-jeep4.jpg   wrecked-jeep5.jpg  

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Unread 04-26-2011, 10:47 PM   #10
cjdogtoy
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I'd pass you'll spend more rebuilding that then buying a fully restored one.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 11:29 PM   #11
toyotajeep44
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I'm partial to the newer Cj's, but I'd say that it would be $500 max around here.

It could be put together for not a whole lot if you have spare parts laying around. If not it could get real expensive.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 11:39 PM   #12
lucdog
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Just saw the pictures. I'm sticking with the $200 with a title. If it has a T18 with the 6.32-1 first gear $250/275. There's just not a lot of useable parts, that I can see.

I'd look at keeping the windshield hinges,transmission, transfercase, bellhousing, factory gauges, lockouts, and possible wiring/fuseblock. Maybe the frame, the plate on the firewall that supports the steering colume, and the engine if it runs decent.
I think the seats are out of a late 80's early 90's Buick Regal BTW.

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 04-27-2011, 12:46 AM   #13
mudpuppy_n_jeep
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its been rolled hard
you got alot of work
i see a parts jeep

i'm dealing with one been rolled on the drivers side..it's a big headache and that 100x worse than mine
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Unread 04-27-2011, 05:22 AM   #14
LT1CJ7
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I would be running, Running away, It's a pile of hacked parts.
No telling what all the po did to the thing.
It's probably happy to be out of misery after getting 2x4 seat risers put into it
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Unread 04-27-2011, 06:29 AM   #15
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikethemalot View Post
Is there any sure way to tell if the frame is straight? From what I can tell, it looks fine but all I've thought to do is get under it and eyeball the frame.
About the only thing you can do at home is a visual inspection and cross measuring. Look at the frame and see if it is visibly off. buckled rails, one side (ignore the suspension) higher than the other, etc...
Cross measuring entails picking parallel points on each frame rail and measuring across them. For example, the rivets on a crossmsmber to the rivets on the opposite rail spring hanger. You should be seeing the same measurements going both ways. If one is longer than the other, then one of the rails is set back farther than the other. You can also get an estimate from a local body shop on how much to have them look at it with their equipment.

As far as the rest of the work, beat out the grill and reinstall.
beat out the fender and reinstall.
Squirt everything with your favorite color of primer.
Replace any damaged items, such a the fan, steering wheel, windshield, bent springs (OUCH), etc....
Alignment.
This will get you on the road.

At this point, you will enter the wonderful world of fixing PO's mistakes. This will take more time and cost then getting the rig back on the road.
Removing lift shackles.
Fixing the wiring.
Unscrewing all the steering problems.
And all the other goodies you read threads about here.

After that you can go to lockers, one piece axles, fancy paint, engine upgrades or swap, transmission swap, front axle upgrades. Etc...

After it is all said and done you will have spent a small fortune on a vehicle that rides like a tank, steers like a wheelbarrow, and gets the mileage of a Sherman tank.
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