The World's Ugliest AMC 360..... - Page 6

**Matt1981CJ7** · 04-19-2012, 08:32 PM

Here's a stupid question, but that's my niche.

Are the original factory intakes aluminum or cast iron? Mine is awfully heavy. I'd expect aluminum to be lighter.

Is there anything inherently wrong with the factory intake, assuming it cleans up nicely?

matt

**lucdog** · 04-19-2012, 08:50 PM

It's rusty so it's cast. Aluminum is half the weight, and providing the gasket surfaces are flat, I see nothing wrong with using what you have.

I replaced the push rods, rockers, and bridges a month or so ago on a 304, total was less than $100, IIRC. The wear pattern was easy to see on the babbit bridges and rockers. The new bridges i bought were 3 piece, compared to the 1 piece you probley currently have. Below is a picture of the new style, missing is the stamped metal piece that joines them. You will also want to have a shop check. Valve spring tension.

Bill

**08JGCOilBurner** · 04-19-2012, 08:50 PM

Matt:

You internals look really good - so maybe you have an option (I'm anxious to hear what others think - this took place awhile ago): We got as far as you, rolled the block over and I checked the crank for end play. I also pulled the mains and took a good look at the bearings (used plastigage to measure). Everything was within spec so I took the risk of wasting a set of head gaskets. After a good cleaning and replacment of the valve seals the heads went back on. And I do think it's vital to keep all in order. We used cardboard boxes and just poked the pushrods, valves etc into the closed box.

We then (and as I write this I can't remember if the intake was on or off, but I think it was just the heads on) we bolted up the flywheel and bellhousing. After installing the starter we ran compression with a quality tester. All cylinders were within spec - in fact IIRC there was like a 5% spread over the two most different. All were high 120 to low 140 (I think - we checked at the time making sure of the spec). We knew that we were going to do this so we had manually rotated the engine making sure that there was oil on the cylinder walls and nothing was binding. Oil was poured into the valley so the cam, lifters and pushes were wet. The crank was also wetted. We wiped the cylinders with 10 40 Rotella IIRC - just what we had. No spark plugs were installed.

It seemed fine so we finished the assembly. The 401 is a MONSTER and runs great. I am probably missing a step(s) here - if some one sees it/them please shout out...

My lasting impression was that these old engines are hard to turn over. I read somewhere that BMW focused a ton of resources on reducing internal friction - I can see why - and this probably explains AMC's penchant for hot running. I remember being worried that something was wrong.

Before we started the engine for real, we rebuilt the oil pump per JeepHammer, packed it with vasoline and primed the pump with an electric drill. Again I had to use a BIG drill to do this, the oil pump creates a lot of resistance.

All in all I'd do it again this way. Saving a good 2K until it's really needed was great.

**Matt1981CJ7** · 04-20-2012, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southshore30

looks like quite a ridge at the top of the cylinder, can you feel it with your finger?

I can barely feel it, when I run my fingernail over it. The ridge is just a different color than the rest of the cylinder, but it's not pronounced at all.

I guess that's what this pricey ridge reamer tool is made for, anyway. I'll probably give that a try, today.

It's good to know that trained eyes are actually looking at my pics. Thanks!!

Matt

**Matt1981CJ7** · 04-20-2012, 02:23 AM

08JGCOilBurner,

I appreciate your input, and I'm glad you like your 401.

Budget isn't top priority here. Since I basically got the core for free, I won't mind dumping a little $$ into it. I'd also like to get more than just stock performance out of the Pig, if possible. Nothing extreme, just a modest performance upgrade.

This is mostly a learning experience for me, anyway, so I plan to tear the Pig down to the bones.

Matt

**08JGCOilBurner** · 04-20-2012, 08:31 AM

Sweet - I'm all in...

Now I get to learn some cool stuff...

**08JGCOilBurner** · 04-20-2012, 03:58 PM

Hey - the deal for the intake just showed up again so I'm passing it on...
Buy your intake for $30.00 off, and get another $50.00 to use later...

mopar408 · 04-20-2012, 04:00 PM

a thought.......look at bottom 2 pics on post 66. Looking at the "print" of the gasket, it appears to be composite instead of a steel shim. I think most engines of that era came with steel, and if that is so the engine may have already been "into" .
Heads up for markings on piston face and bearing shells for potential oversize. Could also account for internal cleanliness and lack of ridge.
Anyone?

**Matt1981CJ7** · 04-20-2012, 04:05 PM

Mopar,

Most of the gaskets stuck to the heads, and they are definitely steel.

I spent a couple more hours on the Greasy Pig this afternoon.

I started by pulling the lifters and organizing them in a box. A few of them required some gentle prying up on the inside lip with a small flathead screwdriver, but otherwise they came right out. The lifters appear like new to my untrained eye, but I will inspect them closer at a later time.

Then I pulled the cam shaft. Again, I'm pleased with the overall appearance, no visible wear that I can see.

Lastly, I flipped the Pig, pulled the oil pan, and cleaned it the best I could. There was some sludge build-up in the very bottom of the pan, but no evidence of metal shavings or coolant leakage. Again, I'm encouraged.

Tomorrow, I hope to have the Pig completely apart. Then I will need some advice on where to go from there.

One question, is the oil dipstick tube a press fit and how's the best way to get it off?

Thanks for following

Matt

82JeepCJ7 · 04-20-2012, 04:30 PM

The dip stick is pressed in. You should be able to wiggle it back and forth to get it to turn a little. Once you have it spinning a little, pull up on it while spinning and it will come out.

82JeepCJ7 · 04-20-2012, 04:33 PM

The oil pick up also just spins out. Make sure your replacement has the plastic button on the bottom. I noticed yours is missing. It keeps the pick up from sucking up to the bottom of the pan.

**08JGCOilBurner** · 04-20-2012, 04:38 PM

Matt:

You're gona break the dipstick - more than likely. I broke a couple coming out and going in.

We ultimately got a new one ground it down a bit and then I took a deep 1/4 drive 5/16 (8mm) and ground it on a slant down it's length and then angled the non-drive end of the socket so that i mated to the dipstick collar. Couple of taps on the hammer and it slid in tight. Instead of trying to figure this out if you want to pm me a shipping address I'll send you the tool.

Then you can put a nice shiny new one in.

Jeep Forum wisdom on where to get the new one and a tool like mine: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...304-v8-557892/

**08JGCOilBurner** · 04-20-2012, 04:53 PM

You are doing some stong work - you may also slide over to the AMC Forum those guys are really knowledgable about AMC. There is tons of advice.

**Matt1981CJ7** · 04-20-2012, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08JGCOilBurner

Matt:

You're gona break the dipstick - more than likely. I broke a couple coming out and going in.

We ultimately got a new one ground it down a bit and then I took a deep 1/4 drive 5/16 (8mm) and ground it on a slant down it's length and then angled the non-drive end of the socket so that i mated to the dipstick collar. Couple of taps on the hammer and it slid in tight. Instead of trying to figure this out if you want to pm me a shipping address I'll send you the tool.

Then you can put a nice shiny new one in.

Jeep Forum wisdom on where to get the new one and a tool like mine: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...304-v8-557892/

Great infotmation!! Thanks.

**lucdog** · 04-20-2012, 08:36 PM

Thanks from Bill also, I need a new tube,

Bill