[Matt1981CJ7]

I can see this is going to be a lengthy project...

The tear-down of the Greasy Pig continues. It doesn't look like I did much, but the pile of parts on my table is growing, so I must be getting something done.

I removed the exhaust manifolds, damper, water-pump, and oil-pump assembly, trying to clean the parts, some, as I pulled them off.

Then I ran to town (2- hour roundtrip) to get some specialty tools. From left to right, valve-spring compressor, ridge reamer, and vibration damper puller. Honestly, I hate buying tools I know it's likely I'll only use once, but so be it. Hopefully, this will be all I'll need to get the Pig apart....

Matt

[08JGCOilBurner]

Man does this look familiar...

401 from a '76 J10 going into a '79 CJ 7. Don't let a power washer worry you.

You are gonna love the bigger AMC! The HEI upgrade is great - make sure you change the gears on the dizzy and cam to a matched set if you go that route. SBE makes great gaskets for this engine - the oil pan set is waay better than cork. The Edlebrock intake was a deal from Discount ordered over the web with a $50,00 coupon - and got another $50.00 to use later.

One problem with these old engines - you've probably seen it since you pulled the exhaust manifolds - the holes are pretty weak. I tapped them and upgraded to Recoils - 5/16 on the outers and 3/8ths on the 2 centers. The headers are staying tight so far with non-locking header bolts...

We also got the EBay aluminum radiator, Wrangler dual booster brakes (cause the 360 is gonna need to be stopped). I missed what tranny you are planning on - sorry. If you are manual, they make an 11" clutch for this beast and I got a new flywheel (positively has to be for the 360, can't be a 304 or a 401) from Jegs, for $98.00 - shipped! I also found a grat little hi-torq starter on EBay for $109(?) and shimmed it works great. It let me use the in frame headers - they don't work with regular starters.

We're shopping for injection ($$$$) but have the 4350 Motorcraft working really well for now.

Good luck!

[Matt1981CJ7]

08JGCOilBurner,

Strong work, my friend, and thanks for all the info. I hope my Greasy Pig turns out that nice.

Did you start a thread on your rebuild, by chance? I'm curious what cleaning techniques, and painting products you used on your block and other components.

I haven't chosen a tranny, yet. My old 258 and S4 tranny are still plugging along nicely, so I'm in no hurry to swap them out. I'm sure that will all change when I get the Pig rebuilt, however.

Matt

[Matt1981CJ7]

Good afternoon, guys.

The clutter was starting to get to me, so I spent the morning cleaning and organizing parts into boxes. Once that chore was done, I made a little more progress on the disassembly of the Greasy Pig.

I removed the timing chain and sprockets, valve covers and intake manifold. On the bright side, the chain, sprockets, dizzy drive gear, and fuel pump eccentric all appear to have very little wear, at least to my novice eye. How do they look to you?

The intake manifold is still quite a mess, so it's difficult to tell what kinda shape it's in. Any tips on quick and inexpensive ways to clean this thing?

I've also removed the rocker arms and bridges, carefully placing each set in labeled zip-locks per cylinder. Why does my manual stress installing these parts back to the same locations? They all appear exactly the same. Do they wear differently, or something?

Lastly, my manual says to use compressed air thru a spark plug hole to remove the valve springs. I'm not sure what this step does, or if it's necessary. If so, it means another trip to town for the proper pneumatic fitting...ugh. Is there another way?

Thanks for all your help,

Matt

[86cj74.2L]

the compressed air is only if your doing a spring or seal replacement with the head still on the engine. that way the valve doesnt drop down inside the cylinder head.

If your pulling the heads..............just waite untill they are sitting on the bench.

nice custom cherry picker.

[Matt1981CJ7]

Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L

the compressed air is only if your doing a spring or seal replacement with the head still on the engine. that way the valve doesnt drop down inside the cylinder head.

If your pulling the heads..............just waite untill they are sitting on the bench.

nice custom cherry picker.

Thanks. I love my little tractor.

With some further reading in the manual, I realized the heads can come off without removing the valves. Like I said, I'm a noob.

Anyway, I'm not sure what to think of the pistons and cylinders. The cylinder walls appear very clean. No scoring, grooving, pits, scorch marks, etc...just nice shiny metal. However, the tops of the of the pistons are charred and have grooves where I assume the valves hit. Is this normal?

Any other observations are welcomed.

Thanks,

Matt

[86cj74.2L]

Those are valve reliefs. It's for proper piston to valve Clearance

[Matt1981CJ7]

Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L

Those are valve reliefs. It's for proper piston to valve Clearance

Ahh, I see. Thanks. Again, this is all new territory for me.

What's the deal with keeping all the rockers, bridges, and push rods in the exact same positions, upon re-install? I haven't taken a micrometer to them, but they all appear the same.



Matt

[lucdog]

Matt, in the link to my thread, on the first page i show how to remove the keepers from the valve springs. Tool was less than $10 IIRC, there are other tools for this, but this one works fine.

One thing you'll want to do is take 2 pieces of 1"x2'' lumber and make a holder for the valves, You will want to put them back in where they came out. Just drill 8 holes in each board and insert the valves. Then just mark there location.

Like the bridges they need to go back where they came from. Its a wear pattern thing.

New bridges and rocker arms are not that expensive. so you might consider putting all new in.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bi...al-bs-1286531/

Bill

[MosesYJ]

as far as cleaning the intake manifold goes, mine was pretty bad but not quite as bad as yours, i started with parts degreaser to get the big clumpls off and then go over with this stuff called Eagle 1 Aluminum Mag Cleaner, you gotta use the kind that says NOT FOR CLEARCOATED MAGS its wayyy more potent then the regular, just follow the directions on the back of the bottle and viola, hope this helps

here is a before and after of mine

after

[southshore30]

looks like quite a ridge at the top of the cylinder, can you feel it with your finger?

[clydegoat]

just a warning, sense you've already removed the head, sense you already said the tool you got to remove the valves from the head is the kind that needs air, it will not work with the head already off, you need the air pressure to keep the valve seated. they make another tool to remove them with the head off. It looks more like a kind of C clamp, it holds the valve while pushing the spring down. warning the only ones I found were about $80. I know this cause i did the same thing on my 258 a couple weekends ago. if your taking it to a shop (the heads atleast) you can probably have them do the valve work and be cheaper than buying an expensive tool you don't think you'll use again.
And on the same order, i'll probably get cussed at on here for this, but I just tore mine down, and atleast with the push rods and lifters, mine got stacked on the bench then just went in, it's just as easy to keep in order, but can be just fine. plus I had only one bad piston I just pulled one from another 258 I had, all works great.

[clydegoat]

you get very far, you may want to decide how far you want to go. full rebuild can get up to $3000 grand pretty easy. I say this to the way you've been asking a few things. If you can and want to do that then great, but if your like me and thats a lot to go, then you can meet in the middle. thats what i did on my 258, pulled it all apart, cleaned it all very well, new rings, new bearings, all new gaskets. runs great, will it last as long as one that went all out, time will tell, but I bet it will get up there pretty well, figure this engines will run many many miles should get all I need out of it now. I did replace the little stuff, water pump,(for the cheap price hate to put one in later) and timing chain and gears(another one thats pretty cheap and alot easier now then later, little wear doesnt show much) like i'd said last post, about as easy to do them the same order, but wouldn't worry about the push rods and lifters in the same order, but in you go inside ALL that needs to be same order. the rods and caps should be marked, so if something gets moved just check how they are marked to be safe when goes back together Just my 2 cents worth. hope it helps

[lucdog]

Originally Posted by clydegoat

just a warning, sense you've already removed the head, sense you already said the tool you got to remove the valves from the head is the kind that needs air, it will not work with the head already off, you need the air pressure to keep the valve seated. they make another tool to remove them with the head off. It looks more like a kind of C clamp, it holds the valve while pushing the spring down. warning the only ones I found were about $80. I know this cause i did the same thing on my 258 a couple weekends ago. if your taking it to a shop (the heads atleast) you can probably have them do the valve work and be cheaper than buying an expensive tool you don't think you'll use again.
And on the same order, i'll probably get cussed at on here for this, but I just tore mine down, and atleast with the push rods and lifters, mine got stacked on the bench then just went in, it's just as easy to keep in order, but can be just fine. plus I had only one bad piston I just pulled one from another 258 I had, all works great.

All that would be needed with the head off would be place a small rag between the valves and work bench to keep the valve from dropping.

This is a good point about taking the entire head to the shop and let them do it all, With the tool I used it takes some torque to compress the spring, enough to make the head want to "roll over" on the bench.

If it took a 1/2 hour for them to remove the all valves, at a $100/per shop rate, I'd have them do it. There may also be a set price on V-8 heads, may want to check.

Bill

[Matt1981CJ7]

Originally Posted by lucdog

Matt, in the link to my thread, on the first page i show how to remove the keepers from the valve springs. Tool was less than $10 IIRC, there are other tools for this, but this one works fine.

One thing you'll want to do is take 2 pieces of 1"x2'' lumber and make a holder for the valves, You will want to put them back in where they came out. Just drill 8 holes in each board and insert the valves. Then just mark there location.

Like the bridges they need to go back where they came from. Its a wear pattern thing.

New bridges and rocker arms are not that expensive. so you might consider putting all new in.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bi...al-bs-1286531/

Bill

Bill,

I apologize for neglecting to read your link, earlier. Sometimes I get ahead of myself. I'll review it in the morning.

I drilled sixteen holes in a chunk of 4"x6" to keep the push rods in order, and I plan to do something similar with the valves. Great minds...

Yeah, I haven't started shopping replacement parts, yet. I have an idea a lot of these parts may get replaced. I just don't have enough experience to make that call intelligently, yet.

Matt