This stuff was silver. Ive used enough heat sink grease to know that there was WAY to much on there. It can also act as an insulator (which id say it was as it was in the connectors after squeezing out from under the module)
Got any spec's on the HEI leads and what i should look for? I can order from US but then id be waiting another week for them to get here.
I wonder if it has aluminum or silver flakes in there to help with the heat transfer.
If there was too much and touched the terminals, it could short them out.
I bit the bullet and ordered from the USA. Was cheaper than going to a local store who wanted $120+ for them.
John, i found this post from you from 2007. Could this be part of my problems?
Originally Posted by John Strenk
The factory tach is wired in series with the coil and control module. If your running a HEI then the power lead supply power to the distributor must come from the tach!! Do not use the tach output on the distributor to run the tach. This is for aftermarket tachs only.
If you ran power from some other source and have the tach in the tach plug then I'm suprised the engine runs at all.
Factory tach hooks up this way with a HEI distributor:
I was completely ignoring the tach at this point as i wanted to find the problem before adding complexity to the issue. I have the OEM tach but haven't traced the wiring yet. The power wire im using is the large red with a white stripe that fed the ignition module on the fender. I had a green wire going to the old coil feeding back to the fuse-block on the firewall i assume is the tach wire but at this point i havent looked into that further. At this stage im waiting for the new plug leads (or wires as you guys call them). Ive now replaced all the water and oil senders, new fuel pump, new plugs, filters, oil and belts, removed all the excess vac hoses, fixed a vac leak and hooked the charcoal canister back up (it had hoses that fed into the chassis rails and nowhere else lol). The intake heater is also disconnected and wiring removed (the coldest it gets here is 15c in the middle of the night, in winter. i wont need it)
Wow, this is different then. Does it look stock or some PO installation?
I assume it's RHD also.
Can you post some pictures?
Yes its stock and RHD. The PO added a much larger power lead to the solenoid and upgraded lead to the starter and other than removing a heap of vac lines the car was 100% stock. ill get a photo in the morning (im at home and its 9:40pm here atm)
Well after buying
New Plugs (2 sets)
Rebuild the Starter
re-Setting the timing
Removing and reinstalling at least 30 times
Bench testing (worked there)
The bloody thing still wouldnt work in the car.
I was about to give up but one more try today with a mate who is a mechanic for 50+yrs
He tried everything.. still nothing.
Then we decided to Sand the Dizzy hole, sand the clamp AND add a earth strap to the bolt.
WE HAVE LIFE!!!
Started and idled better than its ever done. The oil impregnated surface wasnt a good enough earth. Also the Starter required more than 12.2v to operate the solinoid on the starter motor. 12.4v and it worked perfect. a slight drop and the engine wouldn turn over.
The block has 2 grounds. One frame to block and one to the battery plus it has the straps on the engine mounts (so really 4 all up). YOu would think a iron block and a new lump of ali would conduct ok but no, it needed sanding and to be shiny to work