At Wits end with HEI Distributor - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > At Wits end with HEI Distributor

Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

Reply
Unread 01-21-2013, 09:25 AM   #31
CSP
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 12,584
Are you referring to the spark plug wires as "leads"? If so, any '91-95 Wrangler with the 4.0 will have the correct wires to use and will be the right length for the 258.

CSP is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #32
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 13,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
This stuff was silver. Ive used enough heat sink grease to know that there was WAY to much on there. It can also act as an insulator (which id say it was as it was in the connectors after squeezing out from under the module)

Got any spec's on the HEI leads and what i should look for? I can order from US but then id be waiting another week for them to get here.
I wonder if it has aluminum or silver flakes in there to help with the heat transfer.

If there was too much and touched the terminals, it could short them out.
John Strenk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-21-2013, 07:35 PM   #33
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 686
I bit the bullet and ordered from the USA. Was cheaper than going to a local store who wanted $120+ for them.

John, i found this post from you from 2007. Could this be part of my problems?

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
The factory tach is wired in series with the coil and control module. If your running a HEI then the power lead supply power to the distributor must come from the tach!! Do not use the tach output on the distributor to run the tach. This is for aftermarket tachs only.

If you ran power from some other source and have the tach in the tach plug then I'm suprised the engine runs at all.

Factory tach hooks up this way with a HEI distributor:
Key----tach----distributor (+)
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-22-2013, 04:34 AM   #34
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 13,169
If you have the two post OEM tach hooked into the "Tach" terminal on the HEI then yes, it could be your problem.
THat is why I was asking about the tach earlier.
John Strenk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-22-2013, 04:46 AM   #35
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 686
I was completely ignoring the tach at this point as i wanted to find the problem before adding complexity to the issue. I have the OEM tach but haven't traced the wiring yet. The power wire im using is the large red with a white stripe that fed the ignition module on the fender. I had a green wire going to the old coil feeding back to the fuse-block on the firewall i assume is the tach wire but at this point i havent looked into that further. At this stage im waiting for the new plug leads (or wires as you guys call them). Ive now replaced all the water and oil senders, new fuel pump, new plugs, filters, oil and belts, removed all the excess vac hoses, fixed a vac leak and hooked the charcoal canister back up (it had hoses that fed into the chassis rails and nowhere else lol). The intake heater is also disconnected and wiring removed (the coldest it gets here is 15c in the middle of the night, in winter. i wont need it)
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-22-2013, 07:23 AM   #36
brownbagg
Registered User
1930 MK Compass 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: pearl, la
Posts: 2,458
On lead' the Chevy pickup had a straight six with hei
brownbagg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-22-2013, 12:58 PM   #37
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 13,169
Odd about the green wire from the coil feeding back into the firewall plug. The 4 cylinder did this. Not sure about diesels. But maybe export was different
John Strenk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-22-2013, 05:01 PM   #38
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 686
My fusebox is in the center of the firewall not in the top corner. Its almost inline with the dizzy. IM going to have to go through the wiring diag and get rid a of lot of spare wires though.
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-23-2013, 05:26 AM   #39
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 13,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
My fusebox is in the center of the firewall not in the top corner. Its almost inline with the dizzy. IM going to have to go through the wiring diag and get rid a of lot of spare wires though.

Wow, this is different then. Does it look stock or some PO instalationl?

I assume it's RHD also.

Can you post some pictures?
John Strenk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-23-2013, 05:36 AM   #40
chainz
Registered User
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: , Alaska
Posts: 237
Just a thought but is your engine properly grounded in all of the places that it should be?
chainz is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-23-2013, 05:39 AM   #41
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 686
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Wow, this is different then. Does it look stock or some PO installation?

I assume it's RHD also.

Can you post some pictures?
Yes its stock and RHD. The PO added a much larger power lead to the solenoid and upgraded lead to the starter and other than removing a heap of vac lines the car was 100% stock. ill get a photo in the morning (im at home and its 9:40pm here atm)
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 04-24-2013, 07:44 AM   #42
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 686
Well after buying
another HEI
New Leads
New Plugs (2 sets)
Net wiring
New Battery
New Solinoid
Rebuild the Starter
re-Setting the timing
Removing and reinstalling at least 30 times
Bench testing (worked there)

The bloody thing still wouldnt work in the car.

I was about to give up but one more try today with a mate who is a mechanic for 50+yrs

He tried everything.. still nothing.

Then we decided to Sand the Dizzy hole, sand the clamp AND add a earth strap to the bolt.

WE HAVE LIFE!!!

Started and idled better than its ever done. The oil impregnated surface wasnt a good enough earth. Also the Starter required more than 12.2v to operate the solinoid on the starter motor. 12.4v and it worked perfect. a slight drop and the engine wouldn turn over.
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 04-24-2013, 08:15 AM   #43
magilla
Registered User
1969 C101 
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 83
Aha! Glad you found it!

Ensure your engine block is properly grounded to the frame. Same goes for battery, alternator, and starter. Without good grounds, you get gremlins...as you have experienced.
__________________
1969 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 231. T14/D20. D30/D44, 4.10 Locked/Spooled. 4x disc brakes, Saginaw PS. 32" x 9.5" Super Swampers.
1970 Jeepster Commando, in pieces. Buick 350 / SM 465 / D20.
magilla is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 04-24-2013, 08:17 AM   #44
Matt1981CJ7
Web Wheeler
 
Matt1981CJ7's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert, CO
Posts: 10,691
My simple electrical rule is: ITS ALWAYS THE GROUND

Glad you got it running, VooDoo.

Matt
Matt1981CJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 04-24-2013, 08:23 AM   #45
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 686
The block has 2 grounds. One frame to block and one to the battery plus it has the straps on the engine mounts (so really 4 all up). YOu would think a iron block and a new lump of ali would conduct ok but no, it needed sanding and to be shiny to work
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.