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Unread 01-18-2013, 08:07 PM   #16
VooDoo2
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Ive checked the coil, made sure the wires aren't damaged and the black wire is definitely attached to one of the screws. Cap/coil seems to be fine but isnt getting a signal from the base (Module/pickup). Ive emailed the seller who has offered a full refund but the cost of shipping from the US and back again means its cheaper just to bin it. I might buy one from CRT instead and hopefully get one that works

http://crtperformance.com/html/store.html

Anyone used these?

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Unread 01-19-2013, 03:46 AM   #17
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp_lovecraft View Post
I've been running that way for years and years. I thought everyone does it that way?
.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13riverking View Post
I also run my OEM tach with my he I. No problems.
Depends, If you use the OEM Tach wire to supply power to the HEI it will work just fine but if you plug the OEM tach into the "TACH" plug you basically put 12 volts into the point that is suppose to be switching the coil off and on. This will keep power to the coil instead of switching it off and on.

Maybe if you are still using the original resistance wire to the distributor tach output, that might work but cuts back on the power output from the coil.

Now if you have the look-a-like aftermarket tach, then no problem. It will work just fine.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 04:02 AM   #18
VooDoo2
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IM not using ANY tach atm as i just want it running.
Power is from the large red switched power lead that originally fed the ignition module.
There is no power coming from the TACH port on the dizzy at any time (cranking, ignition on or otherwise)

im asuming the green wire that was attached to the coil was the tach lead. My tach used to work and thats the only lead that isnt accounted for.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 05:08 AM   #19
RobsCrawlin7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
Ive checked the coil, made sure the wires aren't damaged and the black wire is definitely attached to one of the screws. Cap/coil seems to be fine but isnt getting a signal from the base (Module/pickup). Ive emailed the seller who has offered a full refund but the cost of shipping from the US and back again means its cheaper just to bin it. I might buy one from CRT instead and hopefully get one that works

http://crtperformance.com/html/store.html

Anyone used these?
if you are already looking at other options, I would either read jeephammer's ignition write up and go that route, or buy a DUI. those ebay hei's are crap and will eat your cam/dizzy gears up (even if you switch the stock one over...ask me how I know)
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Unread 01-19-2013, 05:46 AM   #20
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
Thanks for this. I used this procedure

2. Connect the ground side of your test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while a helper attempts to start the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink= bad module or pickup coil. Further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. Blink but no spark = bad ignition coil.

Read more: http://forums.carcraft.com/70/661769...#ixzz2INHx5zad


and no light at all. Coil tests ok (at a auto electrician)

Wire is definitely on the terminals and testing internally shows good power (12.4v)
Good power where? At the tach terminal or at the power terminal?

if the light is off, it could be one of two things. There is 12 volts on the tach terminal, which normally is OK but the pickup isn't working or there is a broken connection on the tach side.

Do what you did before with the light probe only connect the ground clip to the NEGATIVE side of the battery.

Turn the ignition ON.

If you have No light then you have a blown module or an internal wiring problem. ( Maybe Terminal clipped on insulation instead of wire...)

If you have a light then you have a pickup problem or a module that is bad.

Funny how something is bad both ways but we are trying to narrow down on the problem. Either Wireing problem, pick up problem or module problem.

Try cranking it also See what you get.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 05:55 AM   #21
VooDoo2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Good power where? At the tach terminal or at the power terminal?

if the light is off, it could be one of two things. There is 12 volts on the tach terminal, which normally is OK but the pickup isn't working or there is a broken connection on the tach side.

Do what you did before with the light probe only connect the ground clip to the NEGATIVE side of the battery.

Turn the ignition ON.

If you have No light then you have a blown module or an internal wiring problem. ( Maybe Terminal clipped on insulation instead of wire...)

If you have a light then you have a pickup problem or a module that is bad.

Funny how something is bad both ways but we are trying to narrow down on the problem. Either Wireing problem, pick up problem or module problem.

Try cranking it also See what you get.
John, i appreciate your attempts to help me with this.

From what i gather, There is only 2 places i can test for power

The BATT connector and the tach connector.

At the BATT connector i get 12.4v (same as my battery) when ignition is switched on. Nothing with ignition off. Stays the same when cranking.

I dont get a light on the TACH side on crank or ignition.

(Note that im checking this with the cap off and ensuring i get a good connection. I have made sure the terminals are connected and not clipped on insulation)

Its 11pm here atm so ill check this all again tomorrow as i really do want to get it working. I would have done the teamrush upgrade on the stock dizzy but in Australia we dont have access to the parts)
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Unread 01-19-2013, 07:21 AM   #22
John Strenk
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Here are some scenarios
hei-failure-schematic.jpg  
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Unread 01-19-2013, 08:44 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
and no light at all. Coil tests ok (at a auto electrician)
Ok so you have no light, which means you have a bad ignition module or pickup coil. The pickup coil is NOT the coil that is inside the cap. It is down inside the distributor.

Have you done the tests that follow that one to determine if the ignition module is good or not?

Don't stop your troubleshooting with the one step you followed. You've narrowed it down to two possible components, so rule out one or the other by following the next steps in the procedure in the link.

Forget about the tach. Just follow the testing procedures.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 10:27 AM   #24
markso125
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The finest quality distributors 13 year old chinese children can produce.

Put one of those on a CJ last year, had so many problems with it I ended up having to take it apart and clean all the metal shavings out of it and then had to replace all of the electronics because the wires on the reluctor assembly were damaged when the unit was assembled.

Also I ended up replacing the advance cams to when I put it back together they were poorly fitted and one of them was seized on the vacuum advance assembly.

So the moral of my story is, just because it is new dont expect it to work when it is the cheapset you can possibly get... or its cheaper to save up your pennies and buy a nice name brand distributor, instead of getting one of the procomp imported distibutors straight from asia..
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Unread 01-20-2013, 08:08 PM   #25
VooDoo2
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Ok, found one issue (intermittant issue with test light lol)

Fixed

Now ive used johns diagnostic's and found

With power to test light and other end on TACH i have a solid light on ignition and on crank. NO spark or flash but light dims (im thinking this is normal)
With NEGITIVE to test light and other end on TACH i have a solid light on ignition and on crank. NO spark or flash (im thinking this is normal)
Removed NPN, testing reveals no power gets past this point at all.

How do i test the module itself? I have 2 points at each end (taking this and the NPN to the auto elec today)

The connection between the NPN and the module is VERY loose so ive fixed that but still no spark
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Unread 01-21-2013, 01:28 AM   #26
VooDoo2
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Progress. kinda...

Took the whole dizzy to a auto elec. He hooked it up to a set of jumper leads. Neg to the body, pos to the BATT terminal. Put on a spark plug tester and spun it by hand and POWER!! We have really good spark at all points.

The loose pins between the module and the NPN were an issue but also the amount of dialectric grease under the module as causing an issue.

Took the unit back to the shop, reinstalled and tried to start and now i have spark BUT the leads im using are stuffed. They looked ok but there is leakage all over the place. I get the odd cylinder fire but not the whole lot so now i need to replace the leads. Walking into a parts shop here and asking for HEI leads from the 20yr old girl behind the counter is pointless. She just asks what car its for (and CJ isnt listed on her computer anyway)

Ill do some research on the HEI spec's and what leads i need and see if I can cross reference to a known car that exists here. (not an easy thing). Ive tried GM V6 ecotec leads and spark is very small. With no lead i can get the spark to jump from dizzy to earth over 20mm so im getting good power but the leads are letting me down.

Note. When i reinstalled the dizzy i used the same leads as i was using, hooked up the same way and now i have spark where before i had none. All i did was remove and refit the module and NPN, cleaned the connectors and tightened up the connectors in between them. I also didn't replace the dielectric grease (there was some still in the dizzy but it had squeezed out from under it and gone everywhere.)
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Unread 01-21-2013, 02:13 AM   #27
John Strenk
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I really really really hope it is not dielectric grease under the module.

It's suppose to be Thermal heat sink Compound or your module will not last very long.

Di-electric compound is used to keep water out of connectors to keep them from corroding.

Thermal Heat Sink Compound (grease) is used to transfer heat from inside the module to heat sink it's mounted on. Di-electric grease could act as an insulator.

Usually Di-electric grease is clear. Heat Sink Compound is White.

I've had kids at part store try to sell me di-electric compound when I bought HEI modules before. I took it to put on the terminals And pick some heat sink compound also. They tell me I don't need it but I burnt up 1 too many modules following their advice. I put the di-elect grease on the terminals and the heat sink compound under the module.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 02:33 AM   #28
VooDoo2
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This stuff was silver. Ive used enough heat sink grease to know that there was WAY to much on there. It can also act as an insulator (which id say it was as it was in the connectors after squeezing out from under the module)

Got any spec's on the HEI leads and what i should look for? I can order from US but then id be waiting another week for them to get here.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 02:43 AM   #29
John Strenk
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Unfortunately I don't use an HEI Distributor and couldn't even venture what GM Car would be around down under.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 03:17 AM   #30
86cj74.2L
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If ford has their 4.9l I6 or jeep has their 4.0l I6 either one will work.

Mopar had a strait 6 down their that was a Hemi head? Didn't they.........if it has HEI style terminals try that.
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