Check to make sure that your wires are correctly hooked up to the HEI. 12V power, WITHOUT resistor to the correct blade on HEI. (One is for power to coil, and one is for signal to tach). The HEI requires 12V straight power, and not stepped-down 9v switched power through the resistor block.
1969 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 231. T14/D20. D30/D44, 4.10 Locked/Spooled. 4x disc brakes, Saginaw PS. 32" x 9.5" Super Swampers.
1970 Jeepster Commando, in pieces. Buick 350 / SM 465 / D20.
I know its simple, but have you removed the cap? If not I wonder if the wires are hooked to the module, if there's a rotor installed, and the graphite contact is under the coil. Also like mentioned , power to the 12volt connection and not the tach connection.
1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
Power is coming from the large red lead that originally fed the ignition module. There is also a red rubber coated lead that fed the coil but i found that was lower voltage (i guess its the resistor wire)
Ive removed the cap, replaced the coil, checked rotor and all contacts. Also checked the dizzy is getting a decent earth.
Power is definitely to the power connection.
Tried with and without tach connected.
Also check which i'm sure you have but i thought i had my wire in.It was wedged between the insulator on the terminal end and dizzy connector.Also it wouldn't be the first module that was bad.Carry a spare also of good quality
Put some color in your Cheeks
The HEI module wouldn't think that was very funny and may have got all burn't up over that.....
I've been running that way for years and years. I thought everyone does it that way?
Maybe its the connector? I had a problem once where the blade inside the connector was defective, and pushed the metal piece UP, and did not make a connection. Took me a long... long.. time to figure that out. Ended up replacing the module, and adding a relay, and still didn't work. Dug out the voltage tester, and realized the connector on the HEI is a peice of crap, and easily bent.
Disconnect the wire going to the coil and check the voltage while cranking. My starter was going out and I had a huge voltage drop while starting. It would only start the moment the key was released or when the battery was on a charger or not at all finnaly my starter gave up. Replaced it and my he I head ache was over.
2. Connect the ground side of your test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while a helper attempts to start the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink= bad module or pickup coil. Further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. Blink but no spark = bad ignition coil.