At Wits end with HEI Distributor - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
VooDoo2
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At Wits end with HEI Distributor

after a 4hr marathon tonight with a sparky we STILL cant get the damn thing going.

Brand new HEI dizzy
Replaced the coil thinking it was faulty
new leads
new plugs properly gapped
Good strong switched power
Good earth
new Starter solinoid

I can fit the old Dizzy and it runs
I fit the new HEI setup as per instructions and engine turns over but NO SPARK at all. Nothing we do can get any spark.

Am i missing something or is this HEI junk?

This is the HEI i bought. Seller replace coil once for free with no question.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320742659887...S:1123&vxp=mtr

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post #2 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 06:29 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Are you using full switched 12v power to it, and not the factory resistor setup?

Matt
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post #3 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 06:43 AM
magilla
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Check to make sure that your wires are correctly hooked up to the HEI. 12V power, WITHOUT resistor to the correct blade on HEI. (One is for power to coil, and one is for signal to tach). The HEI requires 12V straight power, and not stepped-down 9v switched power through the resistor block.

1969 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 231. T14/D20. D30/D44, 4.10 Locked/Spooled. 4x disc brakes, Saginaw PS. 32" x 9.5" Super Swampers.
1970 Jeepster Commando, in pieces. Buick 350 / SM 465 / D20.
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post #4 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 06:52 AM
lucdog
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I know its simple, but have you removed the cap? If not I wonder if the wires are hooked to the module, if there's a rotor installed, and the graphite contact is under the coil. Also like mentioned , power to the 12volt connection and not the tach connection.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
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post #5 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
VooDoo2
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Power is coming from the large red lead that originally fed the ignition module. There is also a red rubber coated lead that fed the coil but i found that was lower voltage (i guess its the resistor wire)
Ive removed the cap, replaced the coil, checked rotor and all contacts. Also checked the dizzy is getting a decent earth.
Power is definitely to the power connection.
Tried with and without tach connected.
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post #6 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 07:41 AM
CSP
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post #7 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 07:48 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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I recall reading something about a starter relay jumper in one of Hammer's write-ups.

Matt
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post #8 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 08:59 AM
dslywalker
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Also check which i'm sure you have but i thought i had my wire in.It was wedged between the insulator on the terminal end and dizzy connector.Also it wouldn't be the first module that was bad.Carry a spare also of good quality

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post #9 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 09:16 AM
jranger35
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If you have power going in but no spark coming out it could be the module underneath the rotor. Even if you're coil is good, you won't get spark out if the module is bad.
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post #10 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 11:46 AM
John Strenk
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You didn't plug the OEM tach into the 'Tach" plug in the distributor did you.

The HEI module wouldn't think that was very funny and may have got all burn't up over that.....
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post #11 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 04:11 PM
hp_lovecraft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
The HEI module wouldn't think that was very funny and may have got all burn't up over that.....
I've been running that way for years and years. I thought everyone does it that way?

EDIT:

Maybe its the connector? I had a problem once where the blade inside the connector was defective, and pushed the metal piece UP, and did not make a connection. Took me a long... long.. time to figure that out. Ended up replacing the module, and adding a relay, and still didn't work. Dug out the voltage tester, and realized the connector on the HEI is a peice of crap, and easily bent.
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post #12 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 04:52 PM
13riverking
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Disconnect the wire going to the coil and check the voltage while cranking. My starter was going out and I had a huge voltage drop while starting. It would only start the moment the key was released or when the battery was on a charger or not at all finnaly my starter gave up. Replaced it and my he I head ache was over.
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post #13 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 04:54 PM
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I also run my OEM tach with my he I. No problems.
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post #14 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
VooDoo2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Thanks for this. I used this procedure

2. Connect the ground side of your test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while a helper attempts to start the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink= bad module or pickup coil. Further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. Blink but no spark = bad ignition coil.

Read more: http://forums.carcraft.com/70/661769...#ixzz2INHx5zad


and no light at all. Coil tests ok (at a auto electrician)

Wire is definitely on the terminals and testing internally shows good power (12.4v)
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post #15 of 50 Old 01-18-2013, 07:45 PM
LS1CJ5
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Check continuity on the cap. Test +, - and tach. From the input to the coil. I had a brand new cap, with preinstalled coil have a negative wire short in it. It wasn't connected to the metal tab.

I had to pop the plastic off above the plug in ports. ""Those metal parts will fall out." and go in one way.

I was lucky to bench test first. Reason is....I have this friend that I never trust his "New" parts.

1979 CJ5 LS1, NV4500
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