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Unread 03-22-2008, 07:52 PM   #1
Swampwalker3
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gainesville, Florida
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Wire clean up and no high idle at cold start up.

Well, cleaned up a lot of stuff in the bay. Almost time to clean up all of the oil that spilled from the cap (Even with new cap it still kinda leaks from time to time, she's closed as tight as it can get) and valves on the cover.
Ditched all of the vacuum hoses except for the recommended that was shown earlier in the thread. Loomed most of the stray wires and plugs that were not needed including the O2 sensor plug.

I still need to get to the pass. side and clean up stray wires/plugs as well.

I came across a few parts I wasn't sure about, useage or if they're needed.
1: CTS, I unpluged it when the engine was warm and nothing happened. This as I've read is an indication that the sensor is no good. I was curious, should I replace the sensor or can I just unplug it and tuck it away? (I'm hiding everything I don't need to make the bay look better/cleaner)

2: In the pic, I have a picture of a push on plug/boot. I unplugged it and nothing happened to the idle. Not sure if it deals with something on the inside of the cab or not. So, what is this and do I need it?

Also, the orange wire. What is that? It's dark and couldn't see what it went to.


3: Not a clue what this 90degree plug/boot is. Is it needed? This a ground?


Again, thanks for your guys' help. My engine bay is starting to look decent.

PS. I haven't had much of a choke for as long as I can remember when starting the jeep cold. It would take me a try or two to get her running and even then it'd be hard to keep her going. I've read that there's a screw just below and behind the choke that adjust the high idle for the jeep. It's almost next door to the screw to adjust the idle. (Its the only screw I found anyway.)

Simple enough, well I adjusted it clockwise to speed things up but I got nothing. I countered it and still got nothing. It stays the same either which way I go.

Does the location for the choke screw sound correct? There's only one wire going to the spade on the weber choke.

By the way, its a 32/36.

Thanks, I may just go with a manual choke, but either way, I would like a decent warm up.

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Unread 03-22-2008, 07:58 PM   #2
petey156
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#3 is the water temp sending unit. when you unplug it your guage should flat line
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Unread 03-22-2008, 08:22 PM   #3
Trapshooter
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The orange wire looks to be something a PO ran to pick up power for something else. Doesn't look to be factory as the wire would be secured as it ran past the backet.
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Unread 03-22-2008, 11:12 PM   #4
Swampwalker3
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Awesome. Both look to be keepers then.
Thanks guys.
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Unread 03-23-2008, 03:55 AM   #5
ctm
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#1 pic :

orange wire = intake manifold heater

the plug is the manifold heater switch that turns the manifold heater relay off when the engine comes up to temp

Last edited by ctm; 03-23-2008 at 01:44 PM..
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Unread 03-25-2008, 05:45 PM   #6
Swampwalker3
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Nuttered, cleaned up the oil in and around the engine, cleaned and stuffed wiring, tuned the carb, new PCV stuff, oil cap, new vacuum hoses and routes, set the timing at 9 BDTC..

Two things:
I now get tapping/ticking on acceleration and it seems to go away once the engine is warm. I had it before, but didnt seem as bad when cold. I may have just gotten use to it and just started to pay attention because of the focus in that area. I know of a few things that are known to cause this, Manifolds, stuck lifter, just because it does, ect. I was wondering if my timing affected it or if I may now need a higher octane.

I cleaned the oil on the valve cover, and everywhere else there was oil. Purple Power works awesome, FYI..
On my drive home, I lifted the hood to admire the cleanliness and noticed the oil coming from my oil cap. It's new because my latter did not have a gasket. But, it doesn't appear to matter anyhow. I checked google to see if anyone remedied this or if there was an upgrade cap, but doesn't appear to be either.

Just two new minor problems I've come to notice.
Other than that, Team Rush is now in order.. And Hydro assit..
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Unread 03-25-2008, 06:21 PM   #7
happydog
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Do you still have the PCV valve hooked up to a vacuum source? It sounds like you may not and the blow-by from the engine is causing the oil to come from the cap. You need the PCV on these engines.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 06:47 PM   #8
crusty75
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Concur. I first got my jeep, I thought the motor was old and worn out, history, necessary to replace. A PROPERLY OPERATING and routed PCV system changed everything. Even on my old 75. Way, way more important than most folks realize. Impossible to get an engine in proper tune with out it.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 10:01 PM   #9
Swampwalker3
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Yeah, I still have the valve and breather on the jeep.

The only time it really seems to leak is when I get on it and get off angle.
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Unread 03-30-2008, 09:53 PM   #10
Swampwalker3
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Well, still can't get a high idle to warm up my jeep. Turn key and she'll start if I keep giving her gas. After a few seconds, I'll let off and she'll idle at almost nothing, sounding like a tractor. Most of the times she'll die, usually when I walk away to gather stuff.

I changed and rerouted my vacuum lines to the bare minimal when I nuttered and a buddy set my timing at 8 BTDC. I also set my two idles to par according to REDLINE. After she's warm abit, she'll run decent. Only problem I have with this is the ticking when I accellerate.

Thinking about converting to manual idle
Thanks.
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Unread 03-30-2008, 09:59 PM   #11
Mr.Crowley
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are you possitive that the choke does have power going to it???And do you have a feul pressure regulator and return line on the carb..
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