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Unread 08-08-2013, 08:10 AM   #16
John Strenk
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Like I say, it's what you want out of your engine.

For a 4 banger
lots of HP at High RPM look at a short 4-2-1 header lots of scavaging

Lots 'o torque lower RPM? long individual runners into a single collector.

Exhaust are interesting. Matching them up with intakes and cylinder designs even more....
I got a book about 300 pages just looking at the scientific aspect of designing an exhaust system.
Helps when I cant sleep at night....

Actually Bosch has the best book out there on engine and automobile design.
incredible info

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Automoti.../dp/0837616867

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Unread 08-09-2013, 06:34 AM   #17
twildt
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Ok so I have a question. My manifolds both intake and exhaust are both stock. I would love to replace the exhaust manifold with headers if that make better sense. But reason I haven't is because I keep hearing from everyone that they end up breaking from bouncing around and even normal driving?? Then I was told that there are header out there that have stress relief built in the headers and you can buy them off ebay. But even then I hear those eventually break and only after a few years.

Is this true?

John S. thanks for the advice I will look into that reference and learn a little more. Right now I have all my braces disconnected on the exhaust so that I could move it around a little. It ended up sliding on me and burnt a hole in my front brake line just off the proportioning valve. Thank goodness for E-Brakes!

Got the brake line replaced and the exhaust moved and mounted again. The jeep still feels like not as much power as it should and there are no leaks in exhaust anymore. Got those fixed. So now I am back to wondering if I should just disconnect the exhaust from the header and drive around and see what happens?

Thoughts?

Again, this all started before the jeep exhaust was leaking. Jeep studdered and lost all power while driving. Have to pull over usually and give the jeep a second. Then I could only drive around 30-40mph. Next day its fine again. Usually i could get it up to around 50mph right after the jeep had a small break but it would just choke out again and slow me back down to around 30mph. Then when exhaust was leaking, it stopped having that issue anymore. Then I fixed the exhaust leaks and its back to choking again.

.
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Unread 08-09-2013, 07:45 AM   #18
Matt1981CJ7
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Personally, I don't think your performance issues have anything to do with the exhaust.

Have you done any other diagnostics? Have you checked fuel delivery and vacuum pressure when it acts up?

How do the plugs look? They often give clues to what is going on.

Good luck,

Matt
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Unread 08-09-2013, 08:26 AM   #19
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Personally, I don't think your performance issues have anything to do with the exhaust.

Have you done any other diagnostics? Have you checked fuel delivery and vacuum pressure when it acts up?

How do the plugs look? They often give clues to what is going on.

Good luck,

Matt
I agree Matt. I was thinking a short, plug wire or coil wire, temporarily arcing. Plugged exhaust will affect the engine 100% of the time... IMO.
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Unread 08-09-2013, 09:11 AM   #20
John Strenk
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Have you checked the heat riser inside the exhaust manifold ?

But I also think your original problem is something else.

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Unread 08-09-2013, 10:08 AM   #21
I6CJ7
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4.2 straight 6's dont crack or break headers only the newer 4.0's do. I don't know why that is though...
And our 4.2 can be had with a real long tube header. Like Hedman headers, which is what I've had for overs 7 years now, and even 2 different 258's and I've never had a crack or anything develop on it. They make alot more power, and really makes the 258 sound mean!
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Unread 08-10-2013, 05:16 PM   #22
twildt
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Well lets move on then.

skerr I never have replaced the plug wires. They look cheap anyways. I have replaced plugs with either autolites(sp?) or champions. I will pull one two of them and take pictures for you to look at. Distributor cap and roder replaced. Coil replaced.

strenk you actually helped me out several years back when I started my rebuild. You learned me on the heat riser. I went to local auto parts store and they took me to back of shop and in an old dusty cigar box was a spring for the heat riser. However that spring has already deteriated and fallen off. So now heat riser is open all the time if I remember the default position properly.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 05:32 PM   #23
LumpyGrits
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Go to NAPA and get their Gold line of 8mm spark plug wires for your Jeep.
While your there. Get new dizzy cap and rotor.....
LG
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Unread 08-10-2013, 06:45 PM   #24
twildt
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Well guess what, went down to take out a spark plug for you guys and found a huge vacuum leak! I don't know what it is or if I even need it anymore but it is what has been causing my bad idle! I have not been able to keep the jeep idling for chit and its been so bad the past couple days it ISNT idling at this point.

I saw it was pulled out and barely hanging and so i pushed it back in and boom! I started jeep and it idles perfectly!

Mabe you guys know what this is and can i just silver plate(cap it off) the thing and forget about it?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/in...-what-1560536/



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Unread 08-10-2013, 07:31 PM   #25
I6CJ7
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If you're asking what that diaphragm looking thing is in the first pic on that thread, it's the EGR valve. And it isn't needed. Mines just plugged off with no line going to it on my weber 38. I did see a guy who made a block off plate for it just because it looked better. But if there's no vacuum on it, it wont be open anyways.
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