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Unread 08-22-2007, 03:40 PM   #16
RH31379
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: MAHOPAC,NY
Posts: 246
I am having the wandering problem, loose steering but have a stock jeep. I changed the ball joints and sleeves last year could this be the cause?

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Unread 09-03-2007, 07:06 AM   #17
jadams68
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 2,898
Your tie-rod ends could be worn out or you may need to have the preload adjusted on your steering box ever so slightly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RH31379
I am having the wandering problem, loose steering but have a stock jeep. I changed the ball joints and sleeves last year could this be the cause?
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Unread 09-04-2007, 01:06 PM   #18
RH31379
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all front end components are new, so tie rods are good. i'll check that adjustment
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Unread 09-19-2007, 09:52 PM   #19
diamatron
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Looking at how the article says to install these shims is backwards from what the suspension people say to install them. Like I installed mine. To tilt the pumpkin upward towards the transfer case, improving the driveshaft angle.

I only have like 2 degree shims up there I think, They were installed by a previous owner. I have chaged the springs since to 3" Black Diamonds. I just kept the front wedges in place, and actually measured and ordered the correct ones for the rear.
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Unread 09-20-2007, 06:47 AM   #20
jadams68
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They're wrong if they told you that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diamatron
Looking at how the article says to install these shims is backwards from what the suspension people say to install them. Like I installed mine. To tilt the pumpkin upward towards the transfer case, improving the driveshaft angle.

I only have like 2 degree shims up there I think, They were installed by a previous owner. I have chaged the springs since to 3" Black Diamonds. I just kept the front wedges in place, and actually measured and ordered the correct ones for the rear.
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Unread 09-20-2007, 06:51 AM   #21
Fatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamatron
Looking at how the article says to install these shims is backwards from what the suspension people say to install them. Like I installed mine. To tilt the pumpkin upward towards the transfer case, improving the driveshaft angle.

I only have like 2 degree shims up there I think, They were installed by a previous owner. I have chaged the springs since to 3" Black Diamonds. I just kept the front wedges in place, and actually measured and ordered the correct ones for the rear.
This thread isn't about correcting driveshaft angles. It's about setting the suspension correctly for safe drivability. If you want to reach both goals of correct castor and a perfectly aligned front driveshaft, you're going to have to rotate the tubes in the housing.
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Unread 09-20-2007, 08:17 AM   #22
diamatron
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I would think the only way to solve both driveshaft angle & caster would be with the ball joint sleeves. Or, like you said, remove the and re-weld the pumkin in the correct position.
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Unread 09-20-2007, 10:25 AM   #23
CJSAMM
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Man am I now confused

I just purchased a 77 CJ-5, Jeep is in decent running condition and zero rust(viewable above and under). Although driving it home I thought I was going to die from the steer play. It does have a lift, I am not sure exactly the height, but I would say around 4 to 6 inch. The first thing I want to tackle is this ...the steering issues. I started reading the article, and it seems very well written, but I think I am still having a hard time to understand exaclty where to put the anglemeter at to determine how outta whack my Jeep is. Maybe someone can explain the best way to start this steering project to me in layman terms...or maybe in kindergarten terms. I don't want to sound like a total TOOL, but I do want it right and as easy as possible. Any help would greatly be appreciated. I will re-read this article again, but help would be good...maybe if you could give it to me in 1,2,3 step process. Thanks
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Unread 09-28-2007, 01:06 PM   #24
JIB
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I just tried this on my '73 CJ5. My steering improved a 1000 fold! Seriously.
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Unread 10-16-2007, 06:49 PM   #25
DT5150
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mine's got a 4" lift and it also has these symptoms. though they're not too severe. mostly wandering at speeds over say 45 or 50. especially when i hit a bump. the steering wheel does correct itself after a turn but not all the way. would i still need the 4 degree shims or the 2? how much are they? i didn't see em on the site...
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Unread 10-16-2007, 06:56 PM   #26
jadams68
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You most certainly need them. They are about $30 + a few bucks for longer centering pins. Should take you about 25 minutes to put them on.
You can buy them from www.4xshaft.com or Rubicon eXpress.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150
mine's got a 4" lift and it also has these symptoms. though they're not too severe. mostly wandering at speeds over say 45 or 50. especially when i hit a bump. the steering wheel does correct itself after a turn but not all the way. would i still need the 4 degree shims or the 2? how much are they? i didn't see em on the site...
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Unread 10-16-2007, 06:59 PM   #27
DT5150
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think i need the 2 degree or the 4 degree?
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Unread 10-16-2007, 07:06 PM   #28
jadams68
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Unsure...you need to measure your castor angle or take it to an alignment shop and have them do it ...takes 5 mins.
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Unread 10-16-2007, 07:14 PM   #29
DT5150
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ok.. looking at RE's site, they're all 2.5" wide. for some reason, i'm thinking 2.5" is too wide for a cj7. am i wrong?

and can i check the castor angle w/out jacking it up and removing the tires? just put the anglometer on the ball joint from the inside?
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Unread 10-16-2007, 07:26 PM   #30
Fatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150
ok.. looking at RE's site, they're all 2.5" wide. for some reason, i'm thinking 2.5" is too wide for a cj7. am i wrong?
stock CJ front springs are 2" wide. MEASURE what you have installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150
can i check the castor angle w/out jacking it up and removing the tires? just put the anglometer on the ball joint from the inside?
It needs to be a flat surface, not lifted off the ground, if you were to jack up the front what would you use for a reference?

I'm concerned the message is being misinterpreted.

You should be looking for an overall 4 degrees positive caster measured on a flat surface.

If, after installing a lift, you only have 2 degrees of caster then you need to add 2* shims. If you have 0 - 1* then I'd add the 4 degree shims.

You have to measure where your current settings before you buy. Examples on how to do this have been provided above.
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Tags
ball joint , camber , caster , drag link , loose steering , tie rod , Tie rod end , toe in , toe out , wander , wandering , wheel bearings

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